Hay Testing and Ration Balancing for Your Horse

Feeding your horse is pretty basic, right?  A couple flakes of good-quality hay, a quart or two of sweet feed, a source of salt and maybe a supplement or two to make you feel good.  Easy-peasy, right?

In some cases, sure.  And if feeding your horse truly is this easy, count yourself lucky.

But what if your off-the-track Thoroughbred just isn't gaining as much weight as you'd like?  Or maybe your horse is prone to laminitis, and keeping weight off is difficult. Perhaps your in-foal mare seems to be losing condition as her pregnancy progresses in spite of increases in hay and grain.

In cases like these, the wise move would be to consult with your vet to cover any possible medical concerns, AND ask if it might be time for a hay test and ration balance.

As we've said before here on the blog, the science of feeding horses has come a long way.  Advances in equine nutrition and veterinary medicine have eliminated a lot of guess work, and shown clearer links between certain health issues and certain nutrients - for example. excessive/spiking potassium levels causing problems horses with HYPP (Hyperkalemic Periodic Paralysis or "Impressive Syndrome"), or feeds with high starch/sugar levels aggravating PPID (Pituitary Pars Intermedia Dysfunction, more commonly known as Cushing's disease) or IR (Insulin Resistance).  And the first step in tailoring the best diet for your horse is to have your hay tested.

HOW TO DO IT
Poulin Grain offers a free hay testing and ration balancing service.  In a few simple steps, you can get a comprehensive analysis of your hay's nutritional value.

1. Take samples.  You can call us here at Whitman's, contact your local feed store, Cooperative Extension or Poulin Grain and ask them to take a sample with a forage probe:
   
   You can also take a sample by hand.  With small square bales, reach into the middle of 6 to 10 bales and remove a handful of hay, being as careful as possible to keep leaves intact and on the stem.  With large square or round bales, you'll also take samples from 6-10 bales, but you'll take samples from 2 or 3 different spots in each bale.  When you have your samples, cut them into 2"-3" pieces, put them in a bucket and mix thoroughly.
2. Package and mark the sample.  Fill a quart-size Ziplock bag with the mixed hay, seal it tightly, and label it with your name, contact info, date and a lot or sample name ("First cut from the North Pasture," "Second cut from Charlie" or "First cut from Ed's Upper Field").  Include Andrew Beals' name (he's Poulin's Specialty Feed Technical Manager) for sample interpretation.  Send the sample to Green Mountain Lab, 24 RR Square, Newport, VT 05855.

Keep in mind that many factors affect your hay's nutritional profile.  Type of grass/forage (such as Timothy vs. alfalfa), maturity at cutting, soil fertility, fertilizers, weather conditions during growth and harvest, storage conditions and whether it's first or second cut will have a large bearing on the hay's quality and nutrient content.  So remember that the hay you got from Ed's (unfertilized) Upper Pasture in late June 2014 after a long dry spell could be nutritionally quite different from the hay you get from Ed's (fertilized) Upper Pasture in early June 2015 after abundant rain.

WHAT YOUR REPORT WILL TELL YOU

Moisture: The amount of water in the sample.  If it's over 15%, hay is at risk for mold

Dry Matter:  Everything except water.  Usually 90% or greater.

Protein: Total amount of protein, which is used to build and repair muscle and bone.  Optimum percentages are as follows:

• Grass hay:  8%-14% 
• Mixed hay:  12%-16%
• Alfalfa hay:  >16% 

ADF (Acid Detergent Fiber):  Made of cellulose and lignin, this percentage should be below 45%; higher percentages mean the hay will be poorly digested by your horse.

NDF (Neutral Detergent Fiber: The total amount of fiber (bulk) in your hay.  While fiber is necessary for your horse's digestion (and for generating heat to stay warm in the winter), a percentage over 55% means your horse won't readily eat it.

Calcium:  Essential mineral for bones and teeth, required in large amounts in growing youngsters as well as in pregnant and lactating mares.

Phosphorous:  Another essential mineral for bones and teeth.  

NOTE:  Phosphorous and calcium ratio should be approximately 1 to 1.5 parts phosphorous to 2 parts calcium to avoid osteoporosis (and early tooth loss) in broodmares and OCD/epiphysitis in growing youngsters.

Potassium:  Mineral involved in electrolyte balance.  As noted above, a critical concern for horses with HYPP.

Magnesium:  Mineral involved in nerve function, and often deficient in forages.

Fat:  Concentrated source of calories, and forages usually contain small amounts (<3%).

Ash: Measure of the total amount of mineral in the sample.

Sugar:  Simple sugars.  Combine with starch to get total starch and sugar number.

Starch:  Complex sugar molecules.  NOTE:  Sugar-sensitive horses should have less than 10% sugar, while horses with IR / EMS should have less than 8%.

Horse DE:  Digestible energy - amount of calories in sample.  Usually expressed in Mcal (Megacalorie, which is equal to 1.000,000 calories) per pound of forage.  The higher the number, the more energy per pound.  Most hay falls in the range of .8 to 1.2 Mcal/lb.

WHERE TO GO FROM THERE

The results of the hay test are your horse's nutritional baseline.  From there, you can add/modify nutrients to suit his/her individual needs based on age, size, health issues (if any) and level of work.  Some horses require little in the way of grains/concentrates to supplement their hay, while other horses (particularly breeding and performance horses) will likely require more supplementation.  Work with a nutrition professional to find the answers you need to customize your horse's diet for optimal health and performance.

When Your Garden Goes "BOOM"

All that tilling, planting, fertilizing, trellising, hilling and weeding is starting to pay off in a bumper crop of vegetables.  It starts with a couple ripe tomatoes ... a cutting of mesclun for salad ... a handful of green beans ... and the next thing you know, you're swimming in produce!

So what do you do when your garden explodes?  You'll probably can or freeze the overflow, but fresh veggies right out of the garden are really the best. Staples like salads, steamed broccoli and corn on the cob are wonderful, and we love trying new recipes as well.  Here are a few of our favorites to help you deal with the abundance of produce flowing from your garden.

ROASTED TOMATOES WITH GARLIC AND HERBS
This recipe works beautifully with cherry tomatoes, plum/paste tomatoes, and smaller, meatier beefsteaks.  Keep in mind that roasting times will vary depending on the variety used.

Ingredients:

2 pt. (approximate) cherry or plum tomatoes
4 cloves garlic, unpeeled
Olive oil for drizzling
Herbs - fresh or dried - for sprinkling (oregano, thyme and rosemary work well)
Oil spray

Preheat oven to 425°F.
Lightly spray a jellyroll pan (or other shallow pan with a lip) with the oil spray.
Halve the tomatoes and place them on the pan, cut side up.  Add unpeeled garlic cloves.  Drizzle olive oil generously over all and sprinkle with herbs.
Roast for 30 minutes, checking occasionally.  When they appear leathery in texture, they're done.  You can also roast them until they're caramelized - this will intensify the flavor - but be careful not to burn them (or the garlic).  Serve on slices of baguette, incorporate into a tomato sauce, serve with goat or farmer's cheese - the possibilities are endless!

GREEN BEANS AND BABY SUMMER SQUASH WITH BACON, GARLIC AND PARMESAN

Ingredients:

1 lb green beans (you can use wax or Romano beans if you prefer)
4 or 5 baby summer squash (zucchini or yellow), preferably under 5" long
4 strips bacon
3 cloves garlic
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan, Romano or Asiago cheese (or a blend)

Fry bacon in heavy-bottomed frying pan.  While bacon cooks, cut green beans into 1"-2" pieces, slice squash into 1/4" rounds, and finely mince garlic.  When bacon is done, set aside to drain and reserve 2 tbsp. of the rendered fat.  Return fat to pan over medium heat and add green beans and squash.  Sautée until tender-crisp, about 3-4 minutes, then add garlic.  When garlic is golden and fragrant, crumble the bacon back into the pan and sprinkle with 1/4 c. of the cheese.  Toss, then add another 1/4 c. cheese.  Remove from heat and add remaining 1/2 c. cheese.  Serve immediately.

HERB PESTO
This is a wonderful way to use summer's abundance of fresh herbs.  While basil may be the traditional herb of choice, pesto is equally delicious when made with other herbs.  Choose your favorites and experiment.

Ingredients:

4-5 c. fresh herbs
2 cloves garlic, or to taste (you really can't use too much garlic!)
1 c. olive oil (NOTE:  This amount isn't written in stone. It will vary depending on the herbs you use; sturdy, "woodier" herbs like parsley, sage and rosemary have lower moisture and will require more than tender herbs like basil, tarragon or marjoram.  It will also depend on personal preference.  Some people like a thicker, more paste-like pesto, while some want a thinner texture.)
1/2 c. walnuts
1 tbsp. lemon juice (optional)
1 c. (or to taste) Parmesan cheese

In a food processor, pulse the garlic and walnuts with 1/4 c. olive oil until almost reduced to a paste.  Add the herbs and 1/2 c. olive oil and pulse until the mixture is well incorporated, adding olive oil as needed to attain desired consistency.  Add lemon juice and Parmesan and pulse.  Add more olive oil if pesto is too thick.  Serve over pasta, on chicken or fish, use as a sandwich spread or a dip.

SESAME BROCCOLI

Ingredients:

1 large head of broccoli
Soy sauce to taste
1 tbsp. sesame oil
1/2 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed
1 1/2 tbsp. canola oil
1 tbsp. toasted sesame seeds

In a dry skillet or wok over high heat, toast the sesame seeds, stirring or tossing frequently, until golden.  Set aside.
Cut broccoli into florets.  Blanch in water sufficient to cover just until it turns bright green, then immerse in ice water to stop the cooking process, and drain completely
Add canola oil, garlic and ginger to the skillet or wok.  Cook over high heat, stirring or tossing frequently, until the garlic is golden and fragrant.  Remove ginger and garlic from pan, but leave the infused oil.  Add the garlic and cook, stirring/tossing continuously, until heated through but still tender-crisp.  Add soy sauce and sesame oil to pan and toss to coat broccoli. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and serve.

We hope you enjoy these recipes.  And please, feel free to comment with your favorites!

Bug Off!

Being a horse person in New England can sometimes be daunting.  The winter of 2014-2015 was cold, snowy and unfairly long, and spring was short and chilly.  When temperatures finally moderated and the footing dried up, we all scrambled to get the horses out on the trails and into the arena ... just in time for Bug Season.

Horse flies, stable flies, face flies, deer flies, greenhead flies, mosquitoes, black flies and no-see-ums (the local name for midges) - we have them all. We also have a serious problem with ticks and the diseases they carry (Lyme, Anaplasmosis and Babesiosis, plus one that's so new it's still unnamed). These blood-sucking pests can turn trail rides, ring work and even turn-out into torture sessions.  Fortunately, there are steps you can take to keep your horse bug-free and comfortable.

TOPICALS

These include sprays, spot-ons, roll-ons and wipes, and are available in both chemical (Farnum's Endure, Tri-Tech, Wipe and Repel-X, Cut Heal's Zonk It! or Absorbine's Ultra-Shield lines) and herbal formulas (like Espree and Nature's Choice).  Some are water and sweat-resistant, while others must be reapplied if your horse is bathed, gets sweaty or spends time out in the rain.

WIPES, SPRAYS AND ROLL-ONS

Some sprays are meant to be used every day, while others offer longer-term (up to 14 days) protection.  Be sure to follow the manufacturer's directions and recommendations carefully to ensure the product works effectively.  For example, some people spray or wipe the repellent onto the surface of the horse's coat; this means the preparation evaporates quite quickly and offers only short-term protection.  Sprays and wipes should be applied while brushing against the lay of the hair, so the repellent reaches the skin.  This means they don't dissipate as quickly, offering longer-term protection.

SPOT-ONS

These offer about 2 weeks of protection per application. Spot-ons (like Equi-Spot and Freedom 45) are liquids, similar to the products used for dogs and cats, and are applied in small amounts to your horse's body (usually the poll, topline and legs).  Some horses may object to the "tickle" that applying these products seem to cause, but most get used to it after a couple of applications. Spot-ons are effective and convenient, and can be used in conjunction with herbal sprays or physical barriers (which we'll discuss next).

PHYSICAL BARRIERS

These are a bit like wearable screen houses for your horse.  They're made of a variety of materials, but most are a mesh fabric that allow air to reach your horse so s/he stays cool. but keep bugs from making physical contact.  These include masks, sheets, neck covers, belly guards, quarter sheets and leg wraps; some, like Weatherbeeta's Supa-Fly, are impregnated with insecticides and most offer some level of UV protection.  Some physical barriers are meant to be used when your horse is stalled or pastured (Weatherbeeta's Bug Beeta, Dura-Mesh and Airflow fly sheets and their Dura-Mesh leg wraps), while others (like Cashel's QuietRide masks) are meant to be used when your horse is being ridden.  This fly control method is a great choice for all horses, and especially for those who are too sensitive to tolerate topicals and spot-ons.  (NOTE:  if your horse is prone to developing hoof abscesses in the summer, try a set of mesh leg wraps.  Stomping to dislodge flies can bruise the sole, which can cause abscesses to develop.  We have a couple customers who say that their horses haven't developed hoof abscesses since they started wearing these leg wraps.)

CLIP-ONS, STRAPS AND BANDS

Think of these as the equine equivalent of a flea collar.  Some are attached to your horse's halter, bridle or other tack, some are "Velcro-ed" on your horse's neck or around the cannon or fetlock, and some are braided or clipped into your horse's mane, tail and/or forelock.  Some are impregnated with a chemical like Pyrethrin or Permethrin, while some - like Fly Armor - use inserts that contain herbal essential oils like citronella and cedar.

FEED SUPPLEMENTS

Garlic is probably the most popular feed-through, and is supposed to make your horse smell very unappetizing to insects.  We carry Natural Horse Vet's Bug Check, which contains beneficial probiotics and Brewer's Yeast in addition to garlic.

You can also get feed-through supplements that interrupt the fly's life cycle.  This supplement remains in the manure, and when flies lay eggs on it, the active ingredient in the supplement prevents the larva from maturing.

FLY PREDATORS

Fight bugs with bugs!  Fly Predators are tiny, non-stinging/biting flies that live in manure and kill pest flies in the pupa stage, but never become pests themselves.  You sprinkle them around manure piles and then let them do their work.  You will have to replenish the population periodically (pest flies reproduce far more quickly than the Fly Predators do) to maintain their maximum effectiveness, but when managed properly, they can cause a dramatic reduction in the number of pest flies in the treated area.  You can learn more about (and purchase) Fly Predators at Spaulding Labs and Smartpak.

MANURE MANAGEMENT

Keeping your barn and pastures clean can go a long way toward reducing the pest fly population. Pick out your stalls, small turn-out areas and run-in sheds at least once a day, and drag your pastures to spread manure (which, in addition to keeping the bug population down, will help nourish the grass). Keep your manure pile (or container, if your local ordinances require one) as far distant from your barn as is practical.  If you have a manure pile, make compost!  Turn the pile frequently - this will generate heat to "cook" the compost, which can kill eggs and larvae.  (It will also kill weed seeds - a big plus if you use the composted manure on your gardens.)

AREA TREATMENTS AND TRAPS

Treating the barn can be another big help in reducing fly populations.  Some barns are equipped with automatic spray systems that release a metered dose of insecticide at set intervals, while some people use pressurized or trigger sprayers to treat the stable/run-in shed.  There are also products like Golden Malrin,which will kill within 20 seconds of being ingested.  It can be scattered around the premise or used in bait stations - just make sure it's out of reach of curious kids and barn cats!

Traps can also be effective in controlling the adult fly population.  There are many different types - jug traps, fly sticks, bag traps and fly paper - but they all work on the same principle:  They attract the flies, the flies get trapped, the flies die.  Traps and poisons are probably the least visually appealing methods, as they mean dead flies in the bait stations/traps/scatter areas that require clean-up and disposal.


PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

People often ask us, "What method of fly control will work best for me?"  That depends on your climate, the size and type of barn or shelter you have, the number of horses you have, and even the weather.  For example, here in VT, if we have a very wet, rainy spring, we'll have an upsurge in mosquitoes and black flies.  If you have a lot of trees around your barn or pasture, you might have more trouble with deer flies, and if you have tall grass and brush around, ticks will probably be an issue.  It will require some experimentation to see what method works best for your individual situation.  Many people find that using a combination of methods works best:  a fly mask and sheet with Fly Predators, a spot-on with an herbal spray, or area treatments, sprays and fly masks.

If you have questions or need help finding the method(s) that will suit you best, come on up to the tack shop, and we'd be happy to help you out!

Soil Testing for Home Gardens

If you're a gardener, you're gearing up for the growing season.  You're planning your garden, buying seeds and plants, containers, tools and fertilizers, doing your best to have all your gardening ducks in a row.  If you want to make sure you get the highest yield from your vegetable (or flower) garden, do what your local farmers do, and have your soil tested.

Here at Whitman's, we'll test your soil's pH for free - just bring in a sample.  We can make recommendations on what amendments you'll need to bring your soil's pH balance into the optimal range.  And while the soil's pH is a vital component in plant growth - blueberries and potatoes, for example, prefer a more acid soil (around 5), while other plants like tomatoes, cukes and herbs prefer a pH around 6 or 6.5 - it's only one part of the overall picture.  If you want a more comprehensive analysis of your soil, you can send a sample to the University of Vermont for testing.  Here's how it works:

You stop in at the store and pick up your free soil test kit.  Next, you take a plastic bucket (don't use metal, as it can skew the test results) and take samples of your soil from several different spots around your garden.  Dig down about 3-5", put a trowel full of dirt in your bucket, and move on to another spot.  When you've taken 3 or 5 or 8 or 10 samples (the larger the area, the more samples you'll want to take), mix them thoroughly together so they're very well-incorporated, and put about a cup of the mixed soil into the plastic bag that's included with the test kit. 

Next, fill out the submission form.  It's pretty straightforward:  you supply your contact info and tell them which crop you're going to be growing.  The cost is $14; if you want recommendations for more than one crop, each additional crop is $2.  (There's a comprehensive list of fruits, vegetables, trees and flowers on the back of the form, with the code for each.  You can also request a heavy metals analysis for an extra $10.)  You package up the form, soil sample and payment in the pre-addressed mailer provided, and send it off to UVM for testing.

In just a couple weeks, you'll have the results.  You'll find out the pH of your soil, as well as the levels of phosphorous, potassium/potash, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, micronutrients and organic matter, as well as the soil's overall fertility.  You'll also receive recommendations for fertilizers/amendments to add for each crop you've listed, so you can pinpoint what and how much you'll need, rather than going "by guess and by gosh."

So don't let the farmers be the only ones with all the inside information!  There's still time to have your soil tested before the gardening season really gets under way, so stop in and get your soil test kit. And happy gardening! 

Conditioning Your Horse

Spring is finally on the way!  This winter was tough on everyone, and particularly tough on those who have horses.  The hip-deep snow, icy footing and intense cold made barn chores a major trial, let alone trying to ride, and many folks - even those with access to an indoor arena - simply decided that conditions were too extreme to ride. Now that the temperatures are climbing and the mud is drying up, everyone is looking forward to getting back into the arena or onto the trails. If your horse has had a few weeks (or longer) off, here are a few tips for bringing her back into condition.

(For those of you who are unfamiliar, this is a "Thelwell Pony," made famous by Norman Thelwell in his pony-themed books.  "Thelwell Pony" is code for "pretty darn fat".)

ASSESS THE ISSUE

Consider your horse's physical condition.  Has he gained weight?  Many do if they're lazing around, being a pasture ornament.  But some horses - especially those who have built muscle through regular work - will lose some of that muscle mass.  One good solution to both issues is a few weeks of ground work - longeing, long-lining, ground driving or in-hand work. Start with 10 minutes and gradually increase the length and intensity of the sessions.  It will build muscle, help your horse lose excess weight, and has the added plus of helping your horse re-focus on work and get the "spring silliness" out without putting yourself at risk of getting dumped!

"CONDITION" IS RELATIVE

Getting your horse as fit as possible is a good idea, but you have to factor in what your horse will be doing, how much time you realistically have to work your horse, and the extent of your horse's physical capabilities.  If your horse is used for casual trail riding, he won't need to be as fit as a horse used for competitive trail or endurance.  If you ride 3 times a week and show a couple times during the summer, your horse won't need to be as fit as a horse who's competing in horse trials every other weekend.  If you have an older horse with arthritis or other physical issues, or a youngster you're just starting, their conditioning programs need to be consistent with their physical capabilities.  So take a realistic look at what your horse's job is going to be, and plan accordingly.

TAKE IT SLOWLY

Have you ever sailed into an exercise program with great enthusiasm but little preparation?  If so, you know how body-sore you can get from doing too much too soon.  It's the same for your horse - soreness and even injury are very real possibilities, and can set your training back days or weeks.  So start slowly, and build gradually.  Many trainers like to start the season by hacking out at the walk. They start with a short interval - say, 20 minutes of active walking and "long and low" stretching - and build gradually. They'll do ring work as well, but always go back to the long walks to help build strength.  Then they'll add some trot work, and eventually some canter and gallop work.  This sort of cross-training is excellent for horses of all disciplines, not just physically. but mentally, too.  How would you feel if all you ever did for exercise was ride a stationary bike, or jog on a treadmill?  Taking breaks from arena work will keep your horse from getting bored and "ring-sour."  Conversely, trail / endurance horses benefit greatly from ring work and basic flat work and dressage - it helps keep them supple, balanced and working correctly.

FEEDING

An increase in physical activity may also require an adjustment in your horse's diet.  Ideally, a healthy horse in work should have access to free-choice hay or grazing, as well as the right amount and the right type of concentrates.   With advances in feed formulation and knowledge of equine nutrition, you no longer have to feed massive quantities of oats, corn and other grains and hope you find the happy medium between not enough energy and a horse that wants to swing from the rafters!  There are specific formulas available for horses in different levels of work, for youngsters, breeding horses and senior horses.  We have Poulin feeds here at Whitman's, and are always happy to offer input to help you choose the right feed for your horse.  We also have an excellent selection of supplements from Farnam, Life Data, Finish Line, AniMed, Source, Manna Pro and more.

GET PROFESSIONAL ADVICE

Getting your horse fit is, for the most part, an exercise in common sense.  If your horse is stiff the day after a workout, you might be progressing too quickly and need to scale back.  By the same token, if your horse is breathing easily after a 2 minute trot interval, it's probably time to increase the interval to 2 1/2 or 3 minutes.  But sometimes, you'll run into issues that puzzle you.  Maybe your horse doesn't seem to be losing any weight, even after 4 or 5 weeks of consistent work. Or maybe your horse seems stiff and body sore after even a very light workout, or maybe she's developed a slight unevenness when tracking left at the trot. When common sense isn't working, it's time to check in with your vet.  It could be a shoeing or dental issue, a saddle fit issue, or even something as simple as a slight tweak in or addition to your horse's diet.  But whatever's going on, finding the problem sooner than later is always good, and it can keep more serious issues from developing.

It's Chick Time! Getting Started With Layer Hens

Keeping a flock of laying hens offers quite a few benefits.  In addition to the fresh eggs, you'll have lots of manure to compost for your garden, there will  be fewer ticks, beetles and bugs around your property (if your hens are free-range), and a hungry flock will eagerly consume your carrot parings, apple cores, wilted lettuce and other vegetable refuse.  If you're thinking of raising your own laying hens, Whitman's can help.  We've started taking chick orders already, and will continue taking orders through the end of June (last date for ordering is July 1).  We also have all the feed and supplies you'll need to raise your layers and keep them healthy, happy and productive throughout their lives.

STARTING WITH CHICKS

Before your chicks arrive, you need to have their living quarters set up.  You'll need:

• A brooder.  This can be anything from a cardboard box, old stock tank or bathtub to a commercially-made brooder box.  You need to be sure it's large enough to accommodate the number of chicks you're getting, and that it's located in a dry, draft-free area (cold and dampness will kill chicks very quickly).  It should also have sides at least 18" high to prevent chicks from escaping, and it should be easy to clean.  It's often a good idea to start with a space larger than you think you'll need; you can always block part of it off when chicks are young and move the barrier as they grow and require more room.
• Bedding.  You want at least 2" of bedding to absorb messes and keep the brooder dry.  Pine shavings are good for chicks - they're soft, easy to clean out, and readily available.  You can also use ground corn cobs, peat moss, chopped straw or a commercial coop bedding like Lucerne's Koop Clean.  Don't use cedar bedding, as it can cause respiratory problems.  Sift through the bedding frequently, remove soil, and add more bedding as needed.
• A heat lamp.  Young chicks need warmth - around 90°F is their optimal temperature - and a heat lamp is the most reliable and easily-regulated heat source.  A hanging lamp is best, as you'll control temperature by raising or lowering the lamp.  A couple of days before your chicks arrive, experiment to find out what height is going to keep the brooder at the optimal temperature, and leave a thermometer in the brooder overnight to make sure the temperature remains constant.  Be sure to have the lamp on so the brooder is warm when your chicks arrive.  You'll reduce the temperature in the brooder by about 5°F each week down to a minimum of 55°F.
• A water fountain.  Clean, fresh water is essential for chicks (and for chickens), and while you can improvise and use pans, plastic containers or pie dishes, such containers aren't ideal.  They're easy for the chicks to poop in, and if a chick falls into or stands in one, they can get fatally chilled or even drown.  We carry several sizes of fountains - smaller is often better for chicks, as they don't require as much water as grown chickens, and the water - since it will be replenished more often - will stay fresher.
• Feeders.  We carry small, round chick feeders with multiple holes that the chicks stick their heads in to access the feed.  They make it easier for all chicks to get ample food, and they help keep things cleaner. You can use paper plates or other containers, but chicks are messy eaters and don't mind standing in their food, pooping in it and kicking it around.  That means a messy floor that will need cleaning more frequently.  Feeders will prevent this problem, and keep your chicks healthier, as they lower the risk of coccidiosis (a protozoan parasite that chicks pick up by eating droppings in their food, water or litter).  
• Feed.  Chicks, like any newborn creature, need a food formulated especially for them.  We carry Blue Seal's Home Fresh Chick Starter, which is a medicated feed that contains a preventative against coccidiosis.  If you prefer to go organic and unmedicated, we have Green Mountain Feeds Chick Starter (and other Green Mountain Organic chicken feed).
• Grit.  Hens don't have teeth, so all the grinding of their food is done in the gizzard,  If they're outside, they'll pick up and swallow tiny pebbles; these will go into the gizzard and be used to "chew" the food.  We sell chick grit by the pound so you don't have to buy 50 lbs. for your four chicks!

AS THEY GROW

Be sure to handle your chicks frequently.  This will make them easier to deal with if you have to restrain them for veterinary treatment, transportation or any other reason. But be sure you don't nuzzle or kiss your chicks, and that you wash your hands thoroughly after handling them or their equipment, or cleaning their box.  Chickens can carry and transmit salmonella, so good hygiene is a must. 

Your chicks will require more room as they grow, and their nutritional needs will change as well.  When your chicks are about 8 weeks old, you can change them from the chick starter to a grower crumble (like Blue Seal's Grow & Show).  It's lower in protein than the starter, and the best choice for your birds until they start laying at around 20 weeks.  At that point, you'll need to switch them to a layer mash, pellet or crumble, which will contain extra calcium for egg shell formation.  You can also offer oyster shells for supplemental calcium, which many hens love.

So, if you're ready to start a laying flock, stop on in,  We have a number of books on raising your chicks and caring for your layers, like Chick Days by Jenna Woginrich, Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens by Gail Damerow, and Keep Chickens by Barbara Kilarski.  You can also ask our resident chicken guru, Todd "Chicken Man" Saunders any questions you may have - just give him a call at 802/442-2851.

Maple Syrup!

There's an old joke about Vermont having five seasons instead of four:  spring, summer, fall, winter, and mud season.  While it's true that mud season can be pretty epic, everyone here at Whitman's will tell you that we actually have six seasons.  The sixth usually starts a little before mud season, right about this time of year, when the sun's providing more warmth and daytime temperatures start nosing above the freezing mark but still drop below freezing at night.  Any guesses?  Here are a few hints: Maple trees. Buckets.  Boiling.  That's right:  Vermont's sixth season is sugaring season.

Vermont is justly famous for the quality and quantity of its syrup (in 2013, 2 of every 5 gallons of maple syrup produced in the US came from VT), and it's not just the commercial producers with big sugar woods and miles of lines who are sugaring.  Lots of people have smaller operations - some produce enough so they can sell a few gallons, while others just tap a couple trees in the front yard and boil enough for their own needs.  So if you're interested in trying your hand at producing some syrup, we have what you need here at Whitman's.

The basic equipment for sugaring:

• 7/16" drill bit. 
• Spouts with hooks.
• Sap buckets with covers. (Yes, you can use other containers, but few things are as quintessentially Vermont as an old-fashioned sap bucket hanging on a maple tree).  We have new buckets, and some previously-used buckets in excellent condition.
• Large (at least 2 gallon capacity) pot.  We have canning pots that work beautifully.
• Syrup grading kit (not strictly necessary if you're only sugaring for home consumption, though it's nice to know what grade you produce).
• A good "how to" book.  We have several in stock, but for concise instructions delivered with dry Yankee humor, it's hard to beat Storey's Country Wisdom Bulletin "Making Maple Syrup the Old-Fashioned Way" by Noel Perrin.

First, you'll need to tap your trees.  You're going to drill about two feet off the ground and about two and a half inches into the tree, and on a slight upward angle so that gravity will help the sap run.  You can tap any sugar maple with a trunk at least 10" in diameter, and add another spout for each additional 6"-8" of diameter (maximum of 4 taps per tree).  

When you have your holes drilled, install the spouts by tapping them gently but firmly into the holes.  You don't want to drive them in too far, as they'll be very difficult to remove, but you want them in firmly enough to support your sap bucket.  Hang your buckets and check them in about 8 hrs.  When you have a couple gallons, you can start boiling!

Now, a word of wisdom here.  It takes a LOT of boiling, and much more sap than most people realize.  To produce a single cup of maple syrup, you'll need more than two gallons of sap; you have to reduce the sap to about 1/35th of its original volume.  So be sure you have at least a couple of gallons of sap to boil.

We won't go into the entire process here - that'll be covered in the "how to" book you're going to get - but after sufficient boiling and careful monitoring, you'll be rewarded with your very own batch of homemade maple syrup.  You might decide to try your hand again or even increase the number of taps and get a more professional set-up (again,you'll find information and resources on that in the "how to" book).  But even if you decide it isn't an experience you care to repeat, you'll have bragging rights and a very interesting story to tell!