Hay Testing and Ration Balancing for Your Horse

Feeding your horse is pretty basic, right?  A couple flakes of good-quality hay, a quart or two of sweet feed, a source of salt and maybe a supplement or two to make you feel good.  Easy-peasy, right?

In some cases, sure.  And if feeding your horse truly is this easy, count yourself lucky.

But what if your off-the-track Thoroughbred just isn't gaining as much weight as you'd like?  Or maybe your horse is prone to laminitis, and keeping weight off is difficult. Perhaps your in-foal mare seems to be losing condition as her pregnancy progresses in spite of increases in hay and grain.

In cases like these, the wise move would be to consult with your vet to cover any possible medical concerns, AND ask if it might be time for a hay test and ration balance.

As we've said before here on the blog, the science of feeding horses has come a long way.  Advances in equine nutrition and veterinary medicine have eliminated a lot of guess work, and shown clearer links between certain health issues and certain nutrients - for example. excessive/spiking potassium levels causing problems horses with HYPP (Hyperkalemic Periodic Paralysis or "Impressive Syndrome"), or feeds with high starch/sugar levels aggravating PPID (Pituitary Pars Intermedia Dysfunction, more commonly known as Cushing's disease) or IR (Insulin Resistance).  And the first step in tailoring the best diet for your horse is to have your hay tested.

HOW TO DO IT
Poulin Grain offers a free hay testing and ration balancing service.  In a few simple steps, you can get a comprehensive analysis of your hay's nutritional value.

1. Take samples.  You can call us here at Whitman's, contact your local feed store, Cooperative Extension or Poulin Grain and ask them to take a sample with a forage probe:
   
   You can also take a sample by hand.  With small square bales, reach into the middle of 6 to 10 bales and remove a handful of hay, being as careful as possible to keep leaves intact and on the stem.  With large square or round bales, you'll also take samples from 6-10 bales, but you'll take samples from 2 or 3 different spots in each bale.  When you have your samples, cut them into 2"-3" pieces, put them in a bucket and mix thoroughly.
2. Package and mark the sample.  Fill a quart-size Ziplock bag with the mixed hay, seal it tightly, and label it with your name, contact info, date and a lot or sample name ("First cut from the North Pasture," "Second cut from Charlie" or "First cut from Ed's Upper Field").  Include Andrew Beals' name (he's Poulin's Specialty Feed Technical Manager) for sample interpretation.  Send the sample to Green Mountain Lab, 24 RR Square, Newport, VT 05855.

Keep in mind that many factors affect your hay's nutritional profile.  Type of grass/forage (such as Timothy vs. alfalfa), maturity at cutting, soil fertility, fertilizers, weather conditions during growth and harvest, storage conditions and whether it's first or second cut will have a large bearing on the hay's quality and nutrient content.  So remember that the hay you got from Ed's (unfertilized) Upper Pasture in late June 2014 after a long dry spell could be nutritionally quite different from the hay you get from Ed's (fertilized) Upper Pasture in early June 2015 after abundant rain.

WHAT YOUR REPORT WILL TELL YOU

Moisture: The amount of water in the sample.  If it's over 15%, hay is at risk for mold

Dry Matter:  Everything except water.  Usually 90% or greater.

Protein: Total amount of protein, which is used to build and repair muscle and bone.  Optimum percentages are as follows:

• Grass hay:  8%-14% 
• Mixed hay:  12%-16%
• Alfalfa hay:  >16% 

ADF (Acid Detergent Fiber):  Made of cellulose and lignin, this percentage should be below 45%; higher percentages mean the hay will be poorly digested by your horse.

NDF (Neutral Detergent Fiber: The total amount of fiber (bulk) in your hay.  While fiber is necessary for your horse's digestion (and for generating heat to stay warm in the winter), a percentage over 55% means your horse won't readily eat it.

Calcium:  Essential mineral for bones and teeth, required in large amounts in growing youngsters as well as in pregnant and lactating mares.

Phosphorous:  Another essential mineral for bones and teeth.  

NOTE:  Phosphorous and calcium ratio should be approximately 1 to 1.5 parts phosphorous to 2 parts calcium to avoid osteoporosis (and early tooth loss) in broodmares and OCD/epiphysitis in growing youngsters.

Potassium:  Mineral involved in electrolyte balance.  As noted above, a critical concern for horses with HYPP.

Magnesium:  Mineral involved in nerve function, and often deficient in forages.

Fat:  Concentrated source of calories, and forages usually contain small amounts (<3%).

Ash: Measure of the total amount of mineral in the sample.

Sugar:  Simple sugars.  Combine with starch to get total starch and sugar number.

Starch:  Complex sugar molecules.  NOTE:  Sugar-sensitive horses should have less than 10% sugar, while horses with IR / EMS should have less than 8%.

Horse DE:  Digestible energy - amount of calories in sample.  Usually expressed in Mcal (Megacalorie, which is equal to 1.000,000 calories) per pound of forage.  The higher the number, the more energy per pound.  Most hay falls in the range of .8 to 1.2 Mcal/lb.

WHERE TO GO FROM THERE

The results of the hay test are your horse's nutritional baseline.  From there, you can add/modify nutrients to suit his/her individual needs based on age, size, health issues (if any) and level of work.  Some horses require little in the way of grains/concentrates to supplement their hay, while other horses (particularly breeding and performance horses) will likely require more supplementation.  Work with a nutrition professional to find the answers you need to customize your horse's diet for optimal health and performance.

When Your Garden Goes "BOOM"

All that tilling, planting, fertilizing, trellising, hilling and weeding is starting to pay off in a bumper crop of vegetables.  It starts with a couple ripe tomatoes ... a cutting of mesclun for salad ... a handful of green beans ... and the next thing you know, you're swimming in produce!

So what do you do when your garden explodes?  You'll probably can or freeze the overflow, but fresh veggies right out of the garden are really the best. Staples like salads, steamed broccoli and corn on the cob are wonderful, and we love trying new recipes as well.  Here are a few of our favorites to help you deal with the abundance of produce flowing from your garden.

ROASTED TOMATOES WITH GARLIC AND HERBS
This recipe works beautifully with cherry tomatoes, plum/paste tomatoes, and smaller, meatier beefsteaks.  Keep in mind that roasting times will vary depending on the variety used.

Ingredients:

2 pt. (approximate) cherry or plum tomatoes
4 cloves garlic, unpeeled
Olive oil for drizzling
Herbs - fresh or dried - for sprinkling (oregano, thyme and rosemary work well)
Oil spray

Preheat oven to 425°F.
Lightly spray a jellyroll pan (or other shallow pan with a lip) with the oil spray.
Halve the tomatoes and place them on the pan, cut side up.  Add unpeeled garlic cloves.  Drizzle olive oil generously over all and sprinkle with herbs.
Roast for 30 minutes, checking occasionally.  When they appear leathery in texture, they're done.  You can also roast them until they're caramelized - this will intensify the flavor - but be careful not to burn them (or the garlic).  Serve on slices of baguette, incorporate into a tomato sauce, serve with goat or farmer's cheese - the possibilities are endless!

GREEN BEANS AND BABY SUMMER SQUASH WITH BACON, GARLIC AND PARMESAN

Ingredients:

1 lb green beans (you can use wax or Romano beans if you prefer)
4 or 5 baby summer squash (zucchini or yellow), preferably under 5" long
4 strips bacon
3 cloves garlic
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan, Romano or Asiago cheese (or a blend)

Fry bacon in heavy-bottomed frying pan.  While bacon cooks, cut green beans into 1"-2" pieces, slice squash into 1/4" rounds, and finely mince garlic.  When bacon is done, set aside to drain and reserve 2 tbsp. of the rendered fat.  Return fat to pan over medium heat and add green beans and squash.  Sautée until tender-crisp, about 3-4 minutes, then add garlic.  When garlic is golden and fragrant, crumble the bacon back into the pan and sprinkle with 1/4 c. of the cheese.  Toss, then add another 1/4 c. cheese.  Remove from heat and add remaining 1/2 c. cheese.  Serve immediately.

HERB PESTO
This is a wonderful way to use summer's abundance of fresh herbs.  While basil may be the traditional herb of choice, pesto is equally delicious when made with other herbs.  Choose your favorites and experiment.

Ingredients:

4-5 c. fresh herbs
2 cloves garlic, or to taste (you really can't use too much garlic!)
1 c. olive oil (NOTE:  This amount isn't written in stone. It will vary depending on the herbs you use; sturdy, "woodier" herbs like parsley, sage and rosemary have lower moisture and will require more than tender herbs like basil, tarragon or marjoram.  It will also depend on personal preference.  Some people like a thicker, more paste-like pesto, while some want a thinner texture.)
1/2 c. walnuts
1 tbsp. lemon juice (optional)
1 c. (or to taste) Parmesan cheese

In a food processor, pulse the garlic and walnuts with 1/4 c. olive oil until almost reduced to a paste.  Add the herbs and 1/2 c. olive oil and pulse until the mixture is well incorporated, adding olive oil as needed to attain desired consistency.  Add lemon juice and Parmesan and pulse.  Add more olive oil if pesto is too thick.  Serve over pasta, on chicken or fish, use as a sandwich spread or a dip.

SESAME BROCCOLI

Ingredients:

1 large head of broccoli
Soy sauce to taste
1 tbsp. sesame oil
1/2 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed
1 1/2 tbsp. canola oil
1 tbsp. toasted sesame seeds

In a dry skillet or wok over high heat, toast the sesame seeds, stirring or tossing frequently, until golden.  Set aside.
Cut broccoli into florets.  Blanch in water sufficient to cover just until it turns bright green, then immerse in ice water to stop the cooking process, and drain completely
Add canola oil, garlic and ginger to the skillet or wok.  Cook over high heat, stirring or tossing frequently, until the garlic is golden and fragrant.  Remove ginger and garlic from pan, but leave the infused oil.  Add the garlic and cook, stirring/tossing continuously, until heated through but still tender-crisp.  Add soy sauce and sesame oil to pan and toss to coat broccoli. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and serve.

We hope you enjoy these recipes.  And please, feel free to comment with your favorites!

Conditioning Your Horse

Spring is finally on the way!  This winter was tough on everyone, and particularly tough on those who have horses.  The hip-deep snow, icy footing and intense cold made barn chores a major trial, let alone trying to ride, and many folks - even those with access to an indoor arena - simply decided that conditions were too extreme to ride. Now that the temperatures are climbing and the mud is drying up, everyone is looking forward to getting back into the arena or onto the trails. If your horse has had a few weeks (or longer) off, here are a few tips for bringing her back into condition.

(For those of you who are unfamiliar, this is a "Thelwell Pony," made famous by Norman Thelwell in his pony-themed books.  "Thelwell Pony" is code for "pretty darn fat".)

ASSESS THE ISSUE

Consider your horse's physical condition.  Has he gained weight?  Many do if they're lazing around, being a pasture ornament.  But some horses - especially those who have built muscle through regular work - will lose some of that muscle mass.  One good solution to both issues is a few weeks of ground work - longeing, long-lining, ground driving or in-hand work. Start with 10 minutes and gradually increase the length and intensity of the sessions.  It will build muscle, help your horse lose excess weight, and has the added plus of helping your horse re-focus on work and get the "spring silliness" out without putting yourself at risk of getting dumped!

"CONDITION" IS RELATIVE

Getting your horse as fit as possible is a good idea, but you have to factor in what your horse will be doing, how much time you realistically have to work your horse, and the extent of your horse's physical capabilities.  If your horse is used for casual trail riding, he won't need to be as fit as a horse used for competitive trail or endurance.  If you ride 3 times a week and show a couple times during the summer, your horse won't need to be as fit as a horse who's competing in horse trials every other weekend.  If you have an older horse with arthritis or other physical issues, or a youngster you're just starting, their conditioning programs need to be consistent with their physical capabilities.  So take a realistic look at what your horse's job is going to be, and plan accordingly.

TAKE IT SLOWLY

Have you ever sailed into an exercise program with great enthusiasm but little preparation?  If so, you know how body-sore you can get from doing too much too soon.  It's the same for your horse - soreness and even injury are very real possibilities, and can set your training back days or weeks.  So start slowly, and build gradually.  Many trainers like to start the season by hacking out at the walk. They start with a short interval - say, 20 minutes of active walking and "long and low" stretching - and build gradually. They'll do ring work as well, but always go back to the long walks to help build strength.  Then they'll add some trot work, and eventually some canter and gallop work.  This sort of cross-training is excellent for horses of all disciplines, not just physically. but mentally, too.  How would you feel if all you ever did for exercise was ride a stationary bike, or jog on a treadmill?  Taking breaks from arena work will keep your horse from getting bored and "ring-sour."  Conversely, trail / endurance horses benefit greatly from ring work and basic flat work and dressage - it helps keep them supple, balanced and working correctly.

FEEDING

An increase in physical activity may also require an adjustment in your horse's diet.  Ideally, a healthy horse in work should have access to free-choice hay or grazing, as well as the right amount and the right type of concentrates.   With advances in feed formulation and knowledge of equine nutrition, you no longer have to feed massive quantities of oats, corn and other grains and hope you find the happy medium between not enough energy and a horse that wants to swing from the rafters!  There are specific formulas available for horses in different levels of work, for youngsters, breeding horses and senior horses.  We have Poulin feeds here at Whitman's, and are always happy to offer input to help you choose the right feed for your horse.  We also have an excellent selection of supplements from Farnam, Life Data, Finish Line, AniMed, Source, Manna Pro and more.

GET PROFESSIONAL ADVICE

Getting your horse fit is, for the most part, an exercise in common sense.  If your horse is stiff the day after a workout, you might be progressing too quickly and need to scale back.  By the same token, if your horse is breathing easily after a 2 minute trot interval, it's probably time to increase the interval to 2 1/2 or 3 minutes.  But sometimes, you'll run into issues that puzzle you.  Maybe your horse doesn't seem to be losing any weight, even after 4 or 5 weeks of consistent work. Or maybe your horse seems stiff and body sore after even a very light workout, or maybe she's developed a slight unevenness when tracking left at the trot. When common sense isn't working, it's time to check in with your vet.  It could be a shoeing or dental issue, a saddle fit issue, or even something as simple as a slight tweak in or addition to your horse's diet.  But whatever's going on, finding the problem sooner than later is always good, and it can keep more serious issues from developing.

It's Chick Time! Getting Started With Layer Hens

Keeping a flock of laying hens offers quite a few benefits.  In addition to the fresh eggs, you'll have lots of manure to compost for your garden, there will  be fewer ticks, beetles and bugs around your property (if your hens are free-range), and a hungry flock will eagerly consume your carrot parings, apple cores, wilted lettuce and other vegetable refuse.  If you're thinking of raising your own laying hens, Whitman's can help.  We've started taking chick orders already, and will continue taking orders through the end of June (last date for ordering is July 1).  We also have all the feed and supplies you'll need to raise your layers and keep them healthy, happy and productive throughout their lives.

STARTING WITH CHICKS

Before your chicks arrive, you need to have their living quarters set up.  You'll need:

• A brooder.  This can be anything from a cardboard box, old stock tank or bathtub to a commercially-made brooder box.  You need to be sure it's large enough to accommodate the number of chicks you're getting, and that it's located in a dry, draft-free area (cold and dampness will kill chicks very quickly).  It should also have sides at least 18" high to prevent chicks from escaping, and it should be easy to clean.  It's often a good idea to start with a space larger than you think you'll need; you can always block part of it off when chicks are young and move the barrier as they grow and require more room.
• Bedding.  You want at least 2" of bedding to absorb messes and keep the brooder dry.  Pine shavings are good for chicks - they're soft, easy to clean out, and readily available.  You can also use ground corn cobs, peat moss, chopped straw or a commercial coop bedding like Lucerne's Koop Clean.  Don't use cedar bedding, as it can cause respiratory problems.  Sift through the bedding frequently, remove soil, and add more bedding as needed.
• A heat lamp.  Young chicks need warmth - around 90°F is their optimal temperature - and a heat lamp is the most reliable and easily-regulated heat source.  A hanging lamp is best, as you'll control temperature by raising or lowering the lamp.  A couple of days before your chicks arrive, experiment to find out what height is going to keep the brooder at the optimal temperature, and leave a thermometer in the brooder overnight to make sure the temperature remains constant.  Be sure to have the lamp on so the brooder is warm when your chicks arrive.  You'll reduce the temperature in the brooder by about 5°F each week down to a minimum of 55°F.
• A water fountain.  Clean, fresh water is essential for chicks (and for chickens), and while you can improvise and use pans, plastic containers or pie dishes, such containers aren't ideal.  They're easy for the chicks to poop in, and if a chick falls into or stands in one, they can get fatally chilled or even drown.  We carry several sizes of fountains - smaller is often better for chicks, as they don't require as much water as grown chickens, and the water - since it will be replenished more often - will stay fresher.
• Feeders.  We carry small, round chick feeders with multiple holes that the chicks stick their heads in to access the feed.  They make it easier for all chicks to get ample food, and they help keep things cleaner. You can use paper plates or other containers, but chicks are messy eaters and don't mind standing in their food, pooping in it and kicking it around.  That means a messy floor that will need cleaning more frequently.  Feeders will prevent this problem, and keep your chicks healthier, as they lower the risk of coccidiosis (a protozoan parasite that chicks pick up by eating droppings in their food, water or litter).  
• Feed.  Chicks, like any newborn creature, need a food formulated especially for them.  We carry Blue Seal's Home Fresh Chick Starter, which is a medicated feed that contains a preventative against coccidiosis.  If you prefer to go organic and unmedicated, we have Green Mountain Feeds Chick Starter (and other Green Mountain Organic chicken feed).
• Grit.  Hens don't have teeth, so all the grinding of their food is done in the gizzard,  If they're outside, they'll pick up and swallow tiny pebbles; these will go into the gizzard and be used to "chew" the food.  We sell chick grit by the pound so you don't have to buy 50 lbs. for your four chicks!

AS THEY GROW

Be sure to handle your chicks frequently.  This will make them easier to deal with if you have to restrain them for veterinary treatment, transportation or any other reason. But be sure you don't nuzzle or kiss your chicks, and that you wash your hands thoroughly after handling them or their equipment, or cleaning their box.  Chickens can carry and transmit salmonella, so good hygiene is a must. 

Your chicks will require more room as they grow, and their nutritional needs will change as well.  When your chicks are about 8 weeks old, you can change them from the chick starter to a grower crumble (like Blue Seal's Grow & Show).  It's lower in protein than the starter, and the best choice for your birds until they start laying at around 20 weeks.  At that point, you'll need to switch them to a layer mash, pellet or crumble, which will contain extra calcium for egg shell formation.  You can also offer oyster shells for supplemental calcium, which many hens love.

So, if you're ready to start a laying flock, stop on in,  We have a number of books on raising your chicks and caring for your layers, like Chick Days by Jenna Woginrich, Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens by Gail Damerow, and Keep Chickens by Barbara Kilarski.  You can also ask our resident chicken guru, Todd "Chicken Man" Saunders any questions you may have - just give him a call at 802/442-2851.

Maple Syrup!

There's an old joke about Vermont having five seasons instead of four:  spring, summer, fall, winter, and mud season.  While it's true that mud season can be pretty epic, everyone here at Whitman's will tell you that we actually have six seasons.  The sixth usually starts a little before mud season, right about this time of year, when the sun's providing more warmth and daytime temperatures start nosing above the freezing mark but still drop below freezing at night.  Any guesses?  Here are a few hints: Maple trees. Buckets.  Boiling.  That's right:  Vermont's sixth season is sugaring season.

Vermont is justly famous for the quality and quantity of its syrup (in 2013, 2 of every 5 gallons of maple syrup produced in the US came from VT), and it's not just the commercial producers with big sugar woods and miles of lines who are sugaring.  Lots of people have smaller operations - some produce enough so they can sell a few gallons, while others just tap a couple trees in the front yard and boil enough for their own needs.  So if you're interested in trying your hand at producing some syrup, we have what you need here at Whitman's.

The basic equipment for sugaring:

• 7/16" drill bit. 
• Spouts with hooks.
• Sap buckets with covers. (Yes, you can use other containers, but few things are as quintessentially Vermont as an old-fashioned sap bucket hanging on a maple tree).  We have new buckets, and some previously-used buckets in excellent condition.
• Large (at least 2 gallon capacity) pot.  We have canning pots that work beautifully.
• Syrup grading kit (not strictly necessary if you're only sugaring for home consumption, though it's nice to know what grade you produce).
• A good "how to" book.  We have several in stock, but for concise instructions delivered with dry Yankee humor, it's hard to beat Storey's Country Wisdom Bulletin "Making Maple Syrup the Old-Fashioned Way" by Noel Perrin.

First, you'll need to tap your trees.  You're going to drill about two feet off the ground and about two and a half inches into the tree, and on a slight upward angle so that gravity will help the sap run.  You can tap any sugar maple with a trunk at least 10" in diameter, and add another spout for each additional 6"-8" of diameter (maximum of 4 taps per tree).  

When you have your holes drilled, install the spouts by tapping them gently but firmly into the holes.  You don't want to drive them in too far, as they'll be very difficult to remove, but you want them in firmly enough to support your sap bucket.  Hang your buckets and check them in about 8 hrs.  When you have a couple gallons, you can start boiling!

Now, a word of wisdom here.  It takes a LOT of boiling, and much more sap than most people realize.  To produce a single cup of maple syrup, you'll need more than two gallons of sap; you have to reduce the sap to about 1/35th of its original volume.  So be sure you have at least a couple of gallons of sap to boil.

We won't go into the entire process here - that'll be covered in the "how to" book you're going to get - but after sufficient boiling and careful monitoring, you'll be rewarded with your very own batch of homemade maple syrup.  You might decide to try your hand again or even increase the number of taps and get a more professional set-up (again,you'll find information and resources on that in the "how to" book).  But even if you decide it isn't an experience you care to repeat, you'll have bragging rights and a very interesting story to tell!

Oh the Weather Outside is Frightful ... For Pets, Too! Cold Weather Dangers for Pets

A timely reminder from M. Kathleen Shaw, DVM of the VT Veterinary Medical Association:

"Temperatures are dropping, and with the colder weather, it's time to think about the dangers this presents for our pets, both indoors and outdoors only ones.  By taking a few common sense precautions, you can help reduce the cold weather dangers to your pets.

"Although some pets are conditioned to cold weather, veterinary experts agree that you should bring outdoor pets indoors if the temperature drops below 20 degrees Fahrenheit.  Puppies, kittens, and short haired pets should not be left outside for extended periods of time anytime the temperature goes below 40 degrees.  For pets with long hair, proper grooming is essential to help them maintain a layer of warming air within their coat.  Pets who are heavily matted cannot keep themselves warm.

"If your pet must stay outdoors, be sure to provide shelter for your pet:  they can suffer from frostbite and hypothermia just like we do.  A pet's outdoor house must have at least three enclosed sides, be elevated off the ground, and contain generous amounts of bedding such as straw or hay.  In colder weather, bigger is not always better.  A house just big enough for your pet will warm up faster and retain heat better than something that is too big.  Your outdoor pet will need access to fresh water that isn't frozen.  Use heated water bowls and replenish them frequently.

"Cats love to warm up underneath car hoods.  If cats have access to your car outdoors or in your garage, be sure to pound on the hood of the car prior to starting it.  Many cats are killed or grievously injured by fan belts and moving engine parts.  Another danger that cars present to pets in cold weather is antifreeze poisoning.  If you suspect your pet has consumed any antifreeze at all, call your veterinarian immediately.

"Consider keeping dogs on a leash when they go outside.  Each winter we see cases of dogs that have gone off exploring "frozen" lakes or streams and fall through the ice into the frigid water.

"Inside the house, monitor all pets around wood-burning stoves, fireplaces and space heaters.  These can cause severe burns.  Younger pets romping through the house can knock objects onto these heat sources and cause a fire, so make sure to "pet-proof" the areas around them.  Wit the colder darker months, many people like to use candles in the home.  Make sure to place them where pets (especially cats) do not have access.  The can not only tip over the candle, they can set their fur on fire leading to serious burns.

"Our pets can suffer from arthritis in cold weather, just like humans do and it is just as painful for them.  If you are unsure if your pet has arthritis, want to know ways to keep our older pets comfortable during the cold weather, or if you have questions about cold weather issues with your pets, talk to your veterinarian."

Winter Seminar Series 2015

Whitman's is pleased to bring you yet another series of enjoyable, informative seminars.  They're held every Wednesday evening from 6:30 - 8:00 pm; each presentation runs roughly 1 hour, with a Q&A session afterward.  We have some returning speakers, and some new faces as well, and they'll be covering a wide and eclectic range of subjects.

This year's schedule:

Jan. 14:  ”Saddle Fitting” with Kitt Hazelton of Panther Run Saddlery.  She’ll cover the basics of English and western saddle fit, explain how to evaluate saddle fit and offer some fitting solutions for “problem” conformations.

Jan. 21:  ”Beekeeping 101″ with Rob Greene, Vice-President of Bennington County Beekeepers Club, Ltd.  Learn the basics of backyard beekeeping and the benefits of bee products.

Jan. 28:  ”Electric Fencing” with Greg Miller of Gallagher Fencing.  Greg will cover the lesser-known uses of electric fencing, such as protecting your bees, keeping deer out of your flowers and varmints out of your vegetable garden.  Come with your questions on electric fencing!

Feb. 4:  ”Poultry 101:  Back to the Basics” with Makenzie Fitzpatrick of Blue Seal Feeds.  Ever wanted a backyard flock?  Mackenzie will cover choosing, starting and raising your birds as well as how to house, contain, feed and care for them.

Feb. 11:   ”Second Annual Equine Quiz Night” with Dr. Shannon Guy of Arlington Equine.  A fun and informative night – come test your knowledge of equine health and veterinary topics!

Feb 18:  ”Beef 101:  Back to the Basics” with Makenzie Fitzpatrick of Blue Seal Feeds.  The ABCs of feeding, raising and caring for your beef cattle.

Feb 25:  ”Finding Neutral” with Tess Meyer.  Using a combination of basic techniques, Tess will address common misconceptions that can lead to roadblocks with your equine partner, and offer simple exercises to improve communication and connection between you and your horse.

Mar. 4:  ”‘Friendly’ Gardening Solutions” with Peter Bowden of Hewitt’s Garden Center.  Want to control garden pests without harmful chemicals?  Peter will discuss non-toxic, organic, eco-and pet friendly methods to protect your gardens.

Hope to see you there!

Obedience Training for Your Dog - it's a Good Thing

"A dog is man's best friend."  I don't know many people who'd disagree with that statement.  The companionship, love, loyalty and enjoyment they bring are indeed gifts, and many people look at their dogs as members of their family.  And as with other family members, dogs need to know how to be polite and behave themselves, how to listen to whomever's in charge and how to deal with humans and other animals outside their immediate family ... and that's where obedience classes come in.

What will you and your dog learn in obedience classes?  Of course, you'll learn basic commands like "come", "sit", and "heel", but you'll also learn much, much more.  The first thing you'll learn is how to make your dog focus on you.  Obviously, you can't teach your dog to obey even the most basic of commands unless s/he's paying attention.  Getting your dog's attention - and keeping it - builds a very strong bond between the two of you, and reinforces your position as "pack leader"; it will ensure that your dog looks to your for direction rather than taking its own initiative.  This means they'll check with you for an "ok" before going to investigate that trash can or chasing that squirrel, and you can redirect their attention in a positive way.

Socialization is another thing your dog will gain in class.  This is especially important for pups - they need to understand at a young age that other dogs and people are okay, and learn how to behave around them.  Lack of socialization can make a dog suspicious or fearful of critters and people s/he doesn't know; that can make going to the vet, the groomer, the dog park or even on a walk around the neighborhood a stressful and potentially hazardous situation.

Classes are also a lot of fun.  You and your dog will have quality time together, you'll get to meet other like-minded dogs and people, and gain the satisfaction of knowing you're laying the base for your dog to become a good canine citizen.  And who knows, you might become inspired to pursue further training with your dog, like rally, agility or dock diving.  If your dog shows an aptitude, you could go for the Canine Good Citizen certification, Therapy Dog certification, or even Search and Rescue training.  The possibilities are amazing!

Here at Whitman's, David Stacco offers obedience classes every Monday and Tuesday nights (except during December).  The classes run for 9 weeks, and each class is about 45 minutes long.  Beginner classes are on Monday nights, with intermediate/advanced classes on Tuesday. The next session begins on Jan. 5, 2015, and dogs and pups over 12 weeks of age are encouraged to attend. Cost is $95 for the beginner classes (includes training collar and lead) and $85 for the intermediate/advanced classes.  Give David a call at (802) 442-2851 or email dave@whitmansfeed.com for further info.

Electric Fencing - the Basics

Electric fencing is probably one of the most popular types of fencing on the market today.  It can be used on its own or in conjunction with another type of fencing (like wood, wire or PVC/rubber); it can keep your critters contained, or it can keep other critters out.  It's flexible, adaptable and - especially when compared to other types of fencing - quite economical. So what do you have to know in order to set up an effective electric fence?  Here are the basics from Todd Saunders, our electric fence guru.

THE BASIC COMPONENTS (WHAT YOU'LL NEED)

We carry a wide variety of Gallagher fencers, fencing, components and accessories here at Whitman's, and we can guide you through installing and maintaining your electric fence.  Here's a list of the basic things you'll need to get started:

• The fencer (aka charger or energizer).  This can be a plug-in model, or it can be solar or battery powered.  This is the energy source that gets the electricity to the fencing.  Modern fencers are low-impedance, which means they deliver a regular pulse of energy rather than a constant flow, as the old "weed chopper" fencers did.  Fencers are rated in miles they can energize, volts, amps and/or joules.  In general, the higher the number, the more powerful the fencer.  The only exception to this is the joule rating - that simply indicates the power and consistency with which the voltage is pumped through the fencing.  
• Fencing.  This can be mesh, braid, wire or tape; this is the part that carries the voltage and creates the physical boundary.  
• Insulators.  These are the interface between the fence post and the wire; they keep the fencing from coming into contact with the post, "grounding out" and losing its zap.  You can get plastic or ceramic insulators designed for the type of posts you're using (see below).  Plastic insulators are inexpensive and easy to install (if you miss the nail and hammer the plastic insulator while installing it, it won't ruin the insulator), but like any plastic, they'll eventually degrade in sunlight.  Ceramic insulators are more expensive and fussier to install - they may break if you miss the nail and hit the insulator instead - but they'll probably still be working long after the post they're attached to has rotted or rusted out.
• Grounding system.  You'll need at least 2 or 3 ground poles (usually about 6' long and made of galvanized metal), pounded into the ground roughly 10 feet apart, connected to the grounding terminal of the fencer.  Keep in mind that the more powerful the fencer, the more grounding poles it will need; 
• Insulated electric fence wire.  This will connect your ground poles to your fencer, and your fencer to your fencing.
• Fence posts.  You can use fiberglass, metal or wood posts, depending on your needs (and budget).  For a temporary fence, fiberglass "step in" posts are a good option, since they're inexpensive and easy to install and remove.  For permanent fences, metal or wood posts are a stronger and more durable option; wood is less expensive than metal, but metal posts will probably last longer than wood (depending on the climate in which they're used). 

HOW LARGE?

Now that you have a list of equipment, you need to figure out how much area you'll be fencing, and how many strands of wire/tape/braid you plan to install.  As an example, let's say that you need to fence a rectangular 20'x40' area.

Let's see ... 20 + 20 + 40 + 40 = 120.  So you need a fencer that can electrify 120 linear feet ... right? That's right ... if you're only running one strand of fence.  If you need 2 strands, you'll have 240' of fencing to electrify; for three strands, it will be 360' ... and so on.  So you need to choose a fencer that's strong enough to electrify the total length of all the strands of fence you'll be running - not just the linear feet of the perimeter.

HOW MUCH POWER (LOOKING TO THE FUTURE)

It's usually recommended to get the most powerful fencer you can afford.  Look for a fencer that's rated a minimum of 1 joule; if you can afford one with a higher rating, get it.  Remember that the joule rating tells you how consistently and powerfully the "jolt" is being delivered, not how many volts the charger is generating.  You may have a fencer that's strong enough to to energize 50 miles of fencing and contain an elephant (yes, there are chargers that claim they're suitable for that), but unless that charge is running consistently and strongly through your fencing, it won't do much to contain your animals.

A powerful fencer will not only do a great job at energizing your current fence, it will also give you a lot more flexibility.  At some point in the future, you may decide your 20'x40' area is no longer adequate for your needs, or you may decide to increase one strand of fencing to 5 strands.  If you have a 0.2 joule fencer, your ability to expand may be more limited than you'd like, and a new fencer may be the only option.  So start with the most fencer you can afford; it won't hurt to have a big fencer energizing a small area, and down the road, you may be thankful for that extra power.

TYPES OF FENCING

The type of electric fencing you'll need will depend on what you're trying to accomplish.  If you just want a something electric to keep your horses from leaning on your wooden fence, running a single strand of galvanized wire on the inside of the fence along the top rail will work beautifully.  However, if electric fence is going to be your only method of containment, galvanized wire isn't the best answer, as it's very hard for your livestock to see and you run the risk of them (or some wild creature) breaking the fence or getting tangled in it.  High-visibility poly braid, rope or tape would be better solutions; they do the same job as the galvanized wire, with the addition of being easier for your animals to see.  You can get the standard type or "turbo" fencing.; turbo fencing has higher conductivity than standard fencing, so the electricity is carried more effectively and provides more jolt.

TYPES OF CHARGERS

Chargers come in three different types:  plug in 110 volt fencers, battery-powered fencers and solar fencers. Plug-ins are probably the most reliable, offer the most consistent performance, and - since you don't have to keep supplying them with batteries - the most affordable.  Even the biggest, most powerful fencers won't make much of an increase in your electric bill.  However, if you live in an area with frequent power outages, having a backup system would be advisable.  You can install either a battery or solar fencer as back up, or plug your electric fencer into a generator.

Battery powered fencers are generally less expensive to purchase than plug-in or solar units and are fairly reliable, as long as you're vigilant about the shape the battery's in.  As the battery disperses its energy, the jolt it supplies becomes weaker and weaker, so you can't let it "run dry".  In reality you need to have 2 batteries for that type of fencer:  one in the fencer, and one - fully charged - to replace the first when it's getting low and while it's being recharged.  And of course, batteries will eventually need to be replaced when they no longer hold a charge, so that adds to the overall cost.

Solar fencers are the most expensive to purchase, and - at least in our neck of the woods - the least reliable.  While they require only 8 hrs. of light a day (and direct sunlight isn't required), we find that their performance is somewhat inconsistent, especially in overcast weather.  They tend to work best in areas with strong, continuous sunlight.

MAINTAINING YOUR FENCING

Electric fencing is pretty low-maintenance - it doesn't rot or rust, and animals won't chew it or lean on it.  Just make sure to keep it clear of weeds, grass or fallen branches; be sure the insulators are whole and keeping the wire/tape off the posts (metal posts will short out a fence if the wire touches it) and that the tape, rope or braid isn't frayed.

Probably your biggest maintenance chore will be checking the voltage on a regular basis.  We carry reliable, easy-to-use digital voltmeters that will tell you immediately if your fencer is performing the way it should.   Check your voltage as far from the fencer as possible when you first install your fencing so you have a good idea of your baseline number; it should be at least 4000 volts.  A lower number may indicate that your fencer is faulty, or that it isn't powerful enough to charge your entire fence line. Keep a consistent eye on your voltage; it's common for your reading to be lower in the morning (moisture on the fence can cause temporary current leakage), but if you notice a significant drop - 1500 to 2000 volts - it means you need to look for problems.  It could be grass or brush on the fencing, it could be a frayed wire, or it could be a malfunctioning charger.  It's always best to be proactive in these cases; most animals can sense when the current in the fence is weak, and many will take advantage of it immediately!

Whitman's Feed and Tack

 

Hello, and welcome!  Spring is a time of new beginnings, and we're celebrating the season by starting this blog. We're a full service feed and tack shop, with a knowledgeable staff who can help you with pretty much all your needs, whether they be farm and garden, livestock, equine or companion animal (exotics and fish, too).  Have a question about adding koi to your pond?  Want to know which milk replacer is best for calves?  We have you covered.  Need to find out which feed or supplement would be optimal for your senior horse?  Looking for a grain-free dog treat?  Need an organic fertilizer for your vegetable garden?  No problem.  Looking for schooling breeches and a helmet?  Want to know which breed of chicken is best for egg production?  Need a heat lamp for your iguana?  We can help. 

As you can see, this blog will be wonderfully diverse, with our staff writing about all of the subjects above, and many more.  If you have an idea for a post, or a question you'd like answered, please leave a comment here - we'd be happy to help!