Hay Testing and Ration Balancing for Your Horse

Feeding your horse is pretty basic, right?  A couple flakes of good-quality hay, a quart or two of sweet feed, a source of salt and maybe a supplement or two to make you feel good.  Easy-peasy, right?

In some cases, sure.  And if feeding your horse truly is this easy, count yourself lucky.

But what if your off-the-track Thoroughbred just isn't gaining as much weight as you'd like?  Or maybe your horse is prone to laminitis, and keeping weight off is difficult. Perhaps your in-foal mare seems to be losing condition as her pregnancy progresses in spite of increases in hay and grain.

In cases like these, the wise move would be to consult with your vet to cover any possible medical concerns, AND ask if it might be time for a hay test and ration balance.

As we've said before here on the blog, the science of feeding horses has come a long way.  Advances in equine nutrition and veterinary medicine have eliminated a lot of guess work, and shown clearer links between certain health issues and certain nutrients - for example. excessive/spiking potassium levels causing problems horses with HYPP (Hyperkalemic Periodic Paralysis or "Impressive Syndrome"), or feeds with high starch/sugar levels aggravating PPID (Pituitary Pars Intermedia Dysfunction, more commonly known as Cushing's disease) or IR (Insulin Resistance).  And the first step in tailoring the best diet for your horse is to have your hay tested.

HOW TO DO IT
Poulin Grain offers a free hay testing and ration balancing service.  In a few simple steps, you can get a comprehensive analysis of your hay's nutritional value.

1. Take samples.  You can call us here at Whitman's, contact your local feed store, Cooperative Extension or Poulin Grain and ask them to take a sample with a forage probe:
   
   You can also take a sample by hand.  With small square bales, reach into the middle of 6 to 10 bales and remove a handful of hay, being as careful as possible to keep leaves intact and on the stem.  With large square or round bales, you'll also take samples from 6-10 bales, but you'll take samples from 2 or 3 different spots in each bale.  When you have your samples, cut them into 2"-3" pieces, put them in a bucket and mix thoroughly.
2. Package and mark the sample.  Fill a quart-size Ziplock bag with the mixed hay, seal it tightly, and label it with your name, contact info, date and a lot or sample name ("First cut from the North Pasture," "Second cut from Charlie" or "First cut from Ed's Upper Field").  Include Andrew Beals' name (he's Poulin's Specialty Feed Technical Manager) for sample interpretation.  Send the sample to Green Mountain Lab, 24 RR Square, Newport, VT 05855.

Keep in mind that many factors affect your hay's nutritional profile.  Type of grass/forage (such as Timothy vs. alfalfa), maturity at cutting, soil fertility, fertilizers, weather conditions during growth and harvest, storage conditions and whether it's first or second cut will have a large bearing on the hay's quality and nutrient content.  So remember that the hay you got from Ed's (unfertilized) Upper Pasture in late June 2014 after a long dry spell could be nutritionally quite different from the hay you get from Ed's (fertilized) Upper Pasture in early June 2015 after abundant rain.

WHAT YOUR REPORT WILL TELL YOU

Moisture: The amount of water in the sample.  If it's over 15%, hay is at risk for mold

Dry Matter:  Everything except water.  Usually 90% or greater.

Protein: Total amount of protein, which is used to build and repair muscle and bone.  Optimum percentages are as follows:

• Grass hay:  8%-14% 
• Mixed hay:  12%-16%
• Alfalfa hay:  >16% 

ADF (Acid Detergent Fiber):  Made of cellulose and lignin, this percentage should be below 45%; higher percentages mean the hay will be poorly digested by your horse.

NDF (Neutral Detergent Fiber: The total amount of fiber (bulk) in your hay.  While fiber is necessary for your horse's digestion (and for generating heat to stay warm in the winter), a percentage over 55% means your horse won't readily eat it.

Calcium:  Essential mineral for bones and teeth, required in large amounts in growing youngsters as well as in pregnant and lactating mares.

Phosphorous:  Another essential mineral for bones and teeth.  

NOTE:  Phosphorous and calcium ratio should be approximately 1 to 1.5 parts phosphorous to 2 parts calcium to avoid osteoporosis (and early tooth loss) in broodmares and OCD/epiphysitis in growing youngsters.

Potassium:  Mineral involved in electrolyte balance.  As noted above, a critical concern for horses with HYPP.

Magnesium:  Mineral involved in nerve function, and often deficient in forages.

Fat:  Concentrated source of calories, and forages usually contain small amounts (<3%).

Ash: Measure of the total amount of mineral in the sample.

Sugar:  Simple sugars.  Combine with starch to get total starch and sugar number.

Starch:  Complex sugar molecules.  NOTE:  Sugar-sensitive horses should have less than 10% sugar, while horses with IR / EMS should have less than 8%.

Horse DE:  Digestible energy - amount of calories in sample.  Usually expressed in Mcal (Megacalorie, which is equal to 1.000,000 calories) per pound of forage.  The higher the number, the more energy per pound.  Most hay falls in the range of .8 to 1.2 Mcal/lb.

WHERE TO GO FROM THERE

The results of the hay test are your horse's nutritional baseline.  From there, you can add/modify nutrients to suit his/her individual needs based on age, size, health issues (if any) and level of work.  Some horses require little in the way of grains/concentrates to supplement their hay, while other horses (particularly breeding and performance horses) will likely require more supplementation.  Work with a nutrition professional to find the answers you need to customize your horse's diet for optimal health and performance.

When Your Garden Goes "BOOM"

All that tilling, planting, fertilizing, trellising, hilling and weeding is starting to pay off in a bumper crop of vegetables.  It starts with a couple ripe tomatoes ... a cutting of mesclun for salad ... a handful of green beans ... and the next thing you know, you're swimming in produce!

So what do you do when your garden explodes?  You'll probably can or freeze the overflow, but fresh veggies right out of the garden are really the best. Staples like salads, steamed broccoli and corn on the cob are wonderful, and we love trying new recipes as well.  Here are a few of our favorites to help you deal with the abundance of produce flowing from your garden.

ROASTED TOMATOES WITH GARLIC AND HERBS
This recipe works beautifully with cherry tomatoes, plum/paste tomatoes, and smaller, meatier beefsteaks.  Keep in mind that roasting times will vary depending on the variety used.

Ingredients:

2 pt. (approximate) cherry or plum tomatoes
4 cloves garlic, unpeeled
Olive oil for drizzling
Herbs - fresh or dried - for sprinkling (oregano, thyme and rosemary work well)
Oil spray

Preheat oven to 425°F.
Lightly spray a jellyroll pan (or other shallow pan with a lip) with the oil spray.
Halve the tomatoes and place them on the pan, cut side up.  Add unpeeled garlic cloves.  Drizzle olive oil generously over all and sprinkle with herbs.
Roast for 30 minutes, checking occasionally.  When they appear leathery in texture, they're done.  You can also roast them until they're caramelized - this will intensify the flavor - but be careful not to burn them (or the garlic).  Serve on slices of baguette, incorporate into a tomato sauce, serve with goat or farmer's cheese - the possibilities are endless!

GREEN BEANS AND BABY SUMMER SQUASH WITH BACON, GARLIC AND PARMESAN

Ingredients:

1 lb green beans (you can use wax or Romano beans if you prefer)
4 or 5 baby summer squash (zucchini or yellow), preferably under 5" long
4 strips bacon
3 cloves garlic
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan, Romano or Asiago cheese (or a blend)

Fry bacon in heavy-bottomed frying pan.  While bacon cooks, cut green beans into 1"-2" pieces, slice squash into 1/4" rounds, and finely mince garlic.  When bacon is done, set aside to drain and reserve 2 tbsp. of the rendered fat.  Return fat to pan over medium heat and add green beans and squash.  Sautée until tender-crisp, about 3-4 minutes, then add garlic.  When garlic is golden and fragrant, crumble the bacon back into the pan and sprinkle with 1/4 c. of the cheese.  Toss, then add another 1/4 c. cheese.  Remove from heat and add remaining 1/2 c. cheese.  Serve immediately.

HERB PESTO
This is a wonderful way to use summer's abundance of fresh herbs.  While basil may be the traditional herb of choice, pesto is equally delicious when made with other herbs.  Choose your favorites and experiment.

Ingredients:

4-5 c. fresh herbs
2 cloves garlic, or to taste (you really can't use too much garlic!)
1 c. olive oil (NOTE:  This amount isn't written in stone. It will vary depending on the herbs you use; sturdy, "woodier" herbs like parsley, sage and rosemary have lower moisture and will require more than tender herbs like basil, tarragon or marjoram.  It will also depend on personal preference.  Some people like a thicker, more paste-like pesto, while some want a thinner texture.)
1/2 c. walnuts
1 tbsp. lemon juice (optional)
1 c. (or to taste) Parmesan cheese

In a food processor, pulse the garlic and walnuts with 1/4 c. olive oil until almost reduced to a paste.  Add the herbs and 1/2 c. olive oil and pulse until the mixture is well incorporated, adding olive oil as needed to attain desired consistency.  Add lemon juice and Parmesan and pulse.  Add more olive oil if pesto is too thick.  Serve over pasta, on chicken or fish, use as a sandwich spread or a dip.

SESAME BROCCOLI

Ingredients:

1 large head of broccoli
Soy sauce to taste
1 tbsp. sesame oil
1/2 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed
1 1/2 tbsp. canola oil
1 tbsp. toasted sesame seeds

In a dry skillet or wok over high heat, toast the sesame seeds, stirring or tossing frequently, until golden.  Set aside.
Cut broccoli into florets.  Blanch in water sufficient to cover just until it turns bright green, then immerse in ice water to stop the cooking process, and drain completely
Add canola oil, garlic and ginger to the skillet or wok.  Cook over high heat, stirring or tossing frequently, until the garlic is golden and fragrant.  Remove ginger and garlic from pan, but leave the infused oil.  Add the garlic and cook, stirring/tossing continuously, until heated through but still tender-crisp.  Add soy sauce and sesame oil to pan and toss to coat broccoli. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and serve.

We hope you enjoy these recipes.  And please, feel free to comment with your favorites!

Bug Off!

Being a horse person in New England can sometimes be daunting.  The winter of 2014-2015 was cold, snowy and unfairly long, and spring was short and chilly.  When temperatures finally moderated and the footing dried up, we all scrambled to get the horses out on the trails and into the arena ... just in time for Bug Season.

Horse flies, stable flies, face flies, deer flies, greenhead flies, mosquitoes, black flies and no-see-ums (the local name for midges) - we have them all. We also have a serious problem with ticks and the diseases they carry (Lyme, Anaplasmosis and Babesiosis, plus one that's so new it's still unnamed). These blood-sucking pests can turn trail rides, ring work and even turn-out into torture sessions.  Fortunately, there are steps you can take to keep your horse bug-free and comfortable.

TOPICALS

These include sprays, spot-ons, roll-ons and wipes, and are available in both chemical (Farnum's Endure, Tri-Tech, Wipe and Repel-X, Cut Heal's Zonk It! or Absorbine's Ultra-Shield lines) and herbal formulas (like Espree and Nature's Choice).  Some are water and sweat-resistant, while others must be reapplied if your horse is bathed, gets sweaty or spends time out in the rain.

WIPES, SPRAYS AND ROLL-ONS

Some sprays are meant to be used every day, while others offer longer-term (up to 14 days) protection.  Be sure to follow the manufacturer's directions and recommendations carefully to ensure the product works effectively.  For example, some people spray or wipe the repellent onto the surface of the horse's coat; this means the preparation evaporates quite quickly and offers only short-term protection.  Sprays and wipes should be applied while brushing against the lay of the hair, so the repellent reaches the skin.  This means they don't dissipate as quickly, offering longer-term protection.

SPOT-ONS

These offer about 2 weeks of protection per application. Spot-ons (like Equi-Spot and Freedom 45) are liquids, similar to the products used for dogs and cats, and are applied in small amounts to your horse's body (usually the poll, topline and legs).  Some horses may object to the "tickle" that applying these products seem to cause, but most get used to it after a couple of applications. Spot-ons are effective and convenient, and can be used in conjunction with herbal sprays or physical barriers (which we'll discuss next).

PHYSICAL BARRIERS

These are a bit like wearable screen houses for your horse.  They're made of a variety of materials, but most are a mesh fabric that allow air to reach your horse so s/he stays cool. but keep bugs from making physical contact.  These include masks, sheets, neck covers, belly guards, quarter sheets and leg wraps; some, like Weatherbeeta's Supa-Fly, are impregnated with insecticides and most offer some level of UV protection.  Some physical barriers are meant to be used when your horse is stalled or pastured (Weatherbeeta's Bug Beeta, Dura-Mesh and Airflow fly sheets and their Dura-Mesh leg wraps), while others (like Cashel's QuietRide masks) are meant to be used when your horse is being ridden.  This fly control method is a great choice for all horses, and especially for those who are too sensitive to tolerate topicals and spot-ons.  (NOTE:  if your horse is prone to developing hoof abscesses in the summer, try a set of mesh leg wraps.  Stomping to dislodge flies can bruise the sole, which can cause abscesses to develop.  We have a couple customers who say that their horses haven't developed hoof abscesses since they started wearing these leg wraps.)

CLIP-ONS, STRAPS AND BANDS

Think of these as the equine equivalent of a flea collar.  Some are attached to your horse's halter, bridle or other tack, some are "Velcro-ed" on your horse's neck or around the cannon or fetlock, and some are braided or clipped into your horse's mane, tail and/or forelock.  Some are impregnated with a chemical like Pyrethrin or Permethrin, while some - like Fly Armor - use inserts that contain herbal essential oils like citronella and cedar.

FEED SUPPLEMENTS

Garlic is probably the most popular feed-through, and is supposed to make your horse smell very unappetizing to insects.  We carry Natural Horse Vet's Bug Check, which contains beneficial probiotics and Brewer's Yeast in addition to garlic.

You can also get feed-through supplements that interrupt the fly's life cycle.  This supplement remains in the manure, and when flies lay eggs on it, the active ingredient in the supplement prevents the larva from maturing.

FLY PREDATORS

Fight bugs with bugs!  Fly Predators are tiny, non-stinging/biting flies that live in manure and kill pest flies in the pupa stage, but never become pests themselves.  You sprinkle them around manure piles and then let them do their work.  You will have to replenish the population periodically (pest flies reproduce far more quickly than the Fly Predators do) to maintain their maximum effectiveness, but when managed properly, they can cause a dramatic reduction in the number of pest flies in the treated area.  You can learn more about (and purchase) Fly Predators at Spaulding Labs and Smartpak.

MANURE MANAGEMENT

Keeping your barn and pastures clean can go a long way toward reducing the pest fly population. Pick out your stalls, small turn-out areas and run-in sheds at least once a day, and drag your pastures to spread manure (which, in addition to keeping the bug population down, will help nourish the grass). Keep your manure pile (or container, if your local ordinances require one) as far distant from your barn as is practical.  If you have a manure pile, make compost!  Turn the pile frequently - this will generate heat to "cook" the compost, which can kill eggs and larvae.  (It will also kill weed seeds - a big plus if you use the composted manure on your gardens.)

AREA TREATMENTS AND TRAPS

Treating the barn can be another big help in reducing fly populations.  Some barns are equipped with automatic spray systems that release a metered dose of insecticide at set intervals, while some people use pressurized or trigger sprayers to treat the stable/run-in shed.  There are also products like Golden Malrin,which will kill within 20 seconds of being ingested.  It can be scattered around the premise or used in bait stations - just make sure it's out of reach of curious kids and barn cats!

Traps can also be effective in controlling the adult fly population.  There are many different types - jug traps, fly sticks, bag traps and fly paper - but they all work on the same principle:  They attract the flies, the flies get trapped, the flies die.  Traps and poisons are probably the least visually appealing methods, as they mean dead flies in the bait stations/traps/scatter areas that require clean-up and disposal.


PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

People often ask us, "What method of fly control will work best for me?"  That depends on your climate, the size and type of barn or shelter you have, the number of horses you have, and even the weather.  For example, here in VT, if we have a very wet, rainy spring, we'll have an upsurge in mosquitoes and black flies.  If you have a lot of trees around your barn or pasture, you might have more trouble with deer flies, and if you have tall grass and brush around, ticks will probably be an issue.  It will require some experimentation to see what method works best for your individual situation.  Many people find that using a combination of methods works best:  a fly mask and sheet with Fly Predators, a spot-on with an herbal spray, or area treatments, sprays and fly masks.

If you have questions or need help finding the method(s) that will suit you best, come on up to the tack shop, and we'd be happy to help you out!

Soil Testing for Home Gardens

If you're a gardener, you're gearing up for the growing season.  You're planning your garden, buying seeds and plants, containers, tools and fertilizers, doing your best to have all your gardening ducks in a row.  If you want to make sure you get the highest yield from your vegetable (or flower) garden, do what your local farmers do, and have your soil tested.

Here at Whitman's, we'll test your soil's pH for free - just bring in a sample.  We can make recommendations on what amendments you'll need to bring your soil's pH balance into the optimal range.  And while the soil's pH is a vital component in plant growth - blueberries and potatoes, for example, prefer a more acid soil (around 5), while other plants like tomatoes, cukes and herbs prefer a pH around 6 or 6.5 - it's only one part of the overall picture.  If you want a more comprehensive analysis of your soil, you can send a sample to the University of Vermont for testing.  Here's how it works:

You stop in at the store and pick up your free soil test kit.  Next, you take a plastic bucket (don't use metal, as it can skew the test results) and take samples of your soil from several different spots around your garden.  Dig down about 3-5", put a trowel full of dirt in your bucket, and move on to another spot.  When you've taken 3 or 5 or 8 or 10 samples (the larger the area, the more samples you'll want to take), mix them thoroughly together so they're very well-incorporated, and put about a cup of the mixed soil into the plastic bag that's included with the test kit. 

Next, fill out the submission form.  It's pretty straightforward:  you supply your contact info and tell them which crop you're going to be growing.  The cost is $14; if you want recommendations for more than one crop, each additional crop is $2.  (There's a comprehensive list of fruits, vegetables, trees and flowers on the back of the form, with the code for each.  You can also request a heavy metals analysis for an extra $10.)  You package up the form, soil sample and payment in the pre-addressed mailer provided, and send it off to UVM for testing.

In just a couple weeks, you'll have the results.  You'll find out the pH of your soil, as well as the levels of phosphorous, potassium/potash, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, micronutrients and organic matter, as well as the soil's overall fertility.  You'll also receive recommendations for fertilizers/amendments to add for each crop you've listed, so you can pinpoint what and how much you'll need, rather than going "by guess and by gosh."

So don't let the farmers be the only ones with all the inside information!  There's still time to have your soil tested before the gardening season really gets under way, so stop in and get your soil test kit. And happy gardening! 

Conditioning Your Horse

Spring is finally on the way!  This winter was tough on everyone, and particularly tough on those who have horses.  The hip-deep snow, icy footing and intense cold made barn chores a major trial, let alone trying to ride, and many folks - even those with access to an indoor arena - simply decided that conditions were too extreme to ride. Now that the temperatures are climbing and the mud is drying up, everyone is looking forward to getting back into the arena or onto the trails. If your horse has had a few weeks (or longer) off, here are a few tips for bringing her back into condition.

(For those of you who are unfamiliar, this is a "Thelwell Pony," made famous by Norman Thelwell in his pony-themed books.  "Thelwell Pony" is code for "pretty darn fat".)

ASSESS THE ISSUE

Consider your horse's physical condition.  Has he gained weight?  Many do if they're lazing around, being a pasture ornament.  But some horses - especially those who have built muscle through regular work - will lose some of that muscle mass.  One good solution to both issues is a few weeks of ground work - longeing, long-lining, ground driving or in-hand work. Start with 10 minutes and gradually increase the length and intensity of the sessions.  It will build muscle, help your horse lose excess weight, and has the added plus of helping your horse re-focus on work and get the "spring silliness" out without putting yourself at risk of getting dumped!

"CONDITION" IS RELATIVE

Getting your horse as fit as possible is a good idea, but you have to factor in what your horse will be doing, how much time you realistically have to work your horse, and the extent of your horse's physical capabilities.  If your horse is used for casual trail riding, he won't need to be as fit as a horse used for competitive trail or endurance.  If you ride 3 times a week and show a couple times during the summer, your horse won't need to be as fit as a horse who's competing in horse trials every other weekend.  If you have an older horse with arthritis or other physical issues, or a youngster you're just starting, their conditioning programs need to be consistent with their physical capabilities.  So take a realistic look at what your horse's job is going to be, and plan accordingly.

TAKE IT SLOWLY

Have you ever sailed into an exercise program with great enthusiasm but little preparation?  If so, you know how body-sore you can get from doing too much too soon.  It's the same for your horse - soreness and even injury are very real possibilities, and can set your training back days or weeks.  So start slowly, and build gradually.  Many trainers like to start the season by hacking out at the walk. They start with a short interval - say, 20 minutes of active walking and "long and low" stretching - and build gradually. They'll do ring work as well, but always go back to the long walks to help build strength.  Then they'll add some trot work, and eventually some canter and gallop work.  This sort of cross-training is excellent for horses of all disciplines, not just physically. but mentally, too.  How would you feel if all you ever did for exercise was ride a stationary bike, or jog on a treadmill?  Taking breaks from arena work will keep your horse from getting bored and "ring-sour."  Conversely, trail / endurance horses benefit greatly from ring work and basic flat work and dressage - it helps keep them supple, balanced and working correctly.

FEEDING

An increase in physical activity may also require an adjustment in your horse's diet.  Ideally, a healthy horse in work should have access to free-choice hay or grazing, as well as the right amount and the right type of concentrates.   With advances in feed formulation and knowledge of equine nutrition, you no longer have to feed massive quantities of oats, corn and other grains and hope you find the happy medium between not enough energy and a horse that wants to swing from the rafters!  There are specific formulas available for horses in different levels of work, for youngsters, breeding horses and senior horses.  We have Poulin feeds here at Whitman's, and are always happy to offer input to help you choose the right feed for your horse.  We also have an excellent selection of supplements from Farnam, Life Data, Finish Line, AniMed, Source, Manna Pro and more.

GET PROFESSIONAL ADVICE

Getting your horse fit is, for the most part, an exercise in common sense.  If your horse is stiff the day after a workout, you might be progressing too quickly and need to scale back.  By the same token, if your horse is breathing easily after a 2 minute trot interval, it's probably time to increase the interval to 2 1/2 or 3 minutes.  But sometimes, you'll run into issues that puzzle you.  Maybe your horse doesn't seem to be losing any weight, even after 4 or 5 weeks of consistent work. Or maybe your horse seems stiff and body sore after even a very light workout, or maybe she's developed a slight unevenness when tracking left at the trot. When common sense isn't working, it's time to check in with your vet.  It could be a shoeing or dental issue, a saddle fit issue, or even something as simple as a slight tweak in or addition to your horse's diet.  But whatever's going on, finding the problem sooner than later is always good, and it can keep more serious issues from developing.

It's Chick Time! Getting Started With Layer Hens

Keeping a flock of laying hens offers quite a few benefits.  In addition to the fresh eggs, you'll have lots of manure to compost for your garden, there will  be fewer ticks, beetles and bugs around your property (if your hens are free-range), and a hungry flock will eagerly consume your carrot parings, apple cores, wilted lettuce and other vegetable refuse.  If you're thinking of raising your own laying hens, Whitman's can help.  We've started taking chick orders already, and will continue taking orders through the end of June (last date for ordering is July 1).  We also have all the feed and supplies you'll need to raise your layers and keep them healthy, happy and productive throughout their lives.

STARTING WITH CHICKS

Before your chicks arrive, you need to have their living quarters set up.  You'll need:

• A brooder.  This can be anything from a cardboard box, old stock tank or bathtub to a commercially-made brooder box.  You need to be sure it's large enough to accommodate the number of chicks you're getting, and that it's located in a dry, draft-free area (cold and dampness will kill chicks very quickly).  It should also have sides at least 18" high to prevent chicks from escaping, and it should be easy to clean.  It's often a good idea to start with a space larger than you think you'll need; you can always block part of it off when chicks are young and move the barrier as they grow and require more room.
• Bedding.  You want at least 2" of bedding to absorb messes and keep the brooder dry.  Pine shavings are good for chicks - they're soft, easy to clean out, and readily available.  You can also use ground corn cobs, peat moss, chopped straw or a commercial coop bedding like Lucerne's Koop Clean.  Don't use cedar bedding, as it can cause respiratory problems.  Sift through the bedding frequently, remove soil, and add more bedding as needed.
• A heat lamp.  Young chicks need warmth - around 90°F is their optimal temperature - and a heat lamp is the most reliable and easily-regulated heat source.  A hanging lamp is best, as you'll control temperature by raising or lowering the lamp.  A couple of days before your chicks arrive, experiment to find out what height is going to keep the brooder at the optimal temperature, and leave a thermometer in the brooder overnight to make sure the temperature remains constant.  Be sure to have the lamp on so the brooder is warm when your chicks arrive.  You'll reduce the temperature in the brooder by about 5°F each week down to a minimum of 55°F.
• A water fountain.  Clean, fresh water is essential for chicks (and for chickens), and while you can improvise and use pans, plastic containers or pie dishes, such containers aren't ideal.  They're easy for the chicks to poop in, and if a chick falls into or stands in one, they can get fatally chilled or even drown.  We carry several sizes of fountains - smaller is often better for chicks, as they don't require as much water as grown chickens, and the water - since it will be replenished more often - will stay fresher.
• Feeders.  We carry small, round chick feeders with multiple holes that the chicks stick their heads in to access the feed.  They make it easier for all chicks to get ample food, and they help keep things cleaner. You can use paper plates or other containers, but chicks are messy eaters and don't mind standing in their food, pooping in it and kicking it around.  That means a messy floor that will need cleaning more frequently.  Feeders will prevent this problem, and keep your chicks healthier, as they lower the risk of coccidiosis (a protozoan parasite that chicks pick up by eating droppings in their food, water or litter).  
• Feed.  Chicks, like any newborn creature, need a food formulated especially for them.  We carry Blue Seal's Home Fresh Chick Starter, which is a medicated feed that contains a preventative against coccidiosis.  If you prefer to go organic and unmedicated, we have Green Mountain Feeds Chick Starter (and other Green Mountain Organic chicken feed).
• Grit.  Hens don't have teeth, so all the grinding of their food is done in the gizzard,  If they're outside, they'll pick up and swallow tiny pebbles; these will go into the gizzard and be used to "chew" the food.  We sell chick grit by the pound so you don't have to buy 50 lbs. for your four chicks!

AS THEY GROW

Be sure to handle your chicks frequently.  This will make them easier to deal with if you have to restrain them for veterinary treatment, transportation or any other reason. But be sure you don't nuzzle or kiss your chicks, and that you wash your hands thoroughly after handling them or their equipment, or cleaning their box.  Chickens can carry and transmit salmonella, so good hygiene is a must. 

Your chicks will require more room as they grow, and their nutritional needs will change as well.  When your chicks are about 8 weeks old, you can change them from the chick starter to a grower crumble (like Blue Seal's Grow & Show).  It's lower in protein than the starter, and the best choice for your birds until they start laying at around 20 weeks.  At that point, you'll need to switch them to a layer mash, pellet or crumble, which will contain extra calcium for egg shell formation.  You can also offer oyster shells for supplemental calcium, which many hens love.

So, if you're ready to start a laying flock, stop on in,  We have a number of books on raising your chicks and caring for your layers, like Chick Days by Jenna Woginrich, Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens by Gail Damerow, and Keep Chickens by Barbara Kilarski.  You can also ask our resident chicken guru, Todd "Chicken Man" Saunders any questions you may have - just give him a call at 802/442-2851.

Maple Syrup!

There's an old joke about Vermont having five seasons instead of four:  spring, summer, fall, winter, and mud season.  While it's true that mud season can be pretty epic, everyone here at Whitman's will tell you that we actually have six seasons.  The sixth usually starts a little before mud season, right about this time of year, when the sun's providing more warmth and daytime temperatures start nosing above the freezing mark but still drop below freezing at night.  Any guesses?  Here are a few hints: Maple trees. Buckets.  Boiling.  That's right:  Vermont's sixth season is sugaring season.

Vermont is justly famous for the quality and quantity of its syrup (in 2013, 2 of every 5 gallons of maple syrup produced in the US came from VT), and it's not just the commercial producers with big sugar woods and miles of lines who are sugaring.  Lots of people have smaller operations - some produce enough so they can sell a few gallons, while others just tap a couple trees in the front yard and boil enough for their own needs.  So if you're interested in trying your hand at producing some syrup, we have what you need here at Whitman's.

The basic equipment for sugaring:

• 7/16" drill bit. 
• Spouts with hooks.
• Sap buckets with covers. (Yes, you can use other containers, but few things are as quintessentially Vermont as an old-fashioned sap bucket hanging on a maple tree).  We have new buckets, and some previously-used buckets in excellent condition.
• Large (at least 2 gallon capacity) pot.  We have canning pots that work beautifully.
• Syrup grading kit (not strictly necessary if you're only sugaring for home consumption, though it's nice to know what grade you produce).
• A good "how to" book.  We have several in stock, but for concise instructions delivered with dry Yankee humor, it's hard to beat Storey's Country Wisdom Bulletin "Making Maple Syrup the Old-Fashioned Way" by Noel Perrin.

First, you'll need to tap your trees.  You're going to drill about two feet off the ground and about two and a half inches into the tree, and on a slight upward angle so that gravity will help the sap run.  You can tap any sugar maple with a trunk at least 10" in diameter, and add another spout for each additional 6"-8" of diameter (maximum of 4 taps per tree).  

When you have your holes drilled, install the spouts by tapping them gently but firmly into the holes.  You don't want to drive them in too far, as they'll be very difficult to remove, but you want them in firmly enough to support your sap bucket.  Hang your buckets and check them in about 8 hrs.  When you have a couple gallons, you can start boiling!

Now, a word of wisdom here.  It takes a LOT of boiling, and much more sap than most people realize.  To produce a single cup of maple syrup, you'll need more than two gallons of sap; you have to reduce the sap to about 1/35th of its original volume.  So be sure you have at least a couple of gallons of sap to boil.

We won't go into the entire process here - that'll be covered in the "how to" book you're going to get - but after sufficient boiling and careful monitoring, you'll be rewarded with your very own batch of homemade maple syrup.  You might decide to try your hand again or even increase the number of taps and get a more professional set-up (again,you'll find information and resources on that in the "how to" book).  But even if you decide it isn't an experience you care to repeat, you'll have bragging rights and a very interesting story to tell!

Starting Seeds Indoors

It's that time of year again!  Even though we have lots of snow and truly Arctic temperatures at the moment, calendar spring is just 6 weeks away, and - for the majority of our area - the last frost date is only12-14 weeks away.  So if you're thinking of starting your own seeds, it's time to get moving.

ADVANTAGES

With some long-season veggies like tomatoes or melons, starting from seed (or buying plants) are your only options, since our growing season is too short for them to mature if seeded directly into the garden.  Starting your own seeds usually gives you a wider variety of plants to choose from, so you can experiment with heirloom and/or unusual varieties.  It also gives you the advantage of knowing where your plants came from, what pests and conditions they've been exposed to, and - especially important for organic growers - what has and hasn't been used for starter and fertilizer.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

The Essentials

• Seeds (obviously!).
• Markers or labels so you know what you planted in each container.
• Containers.  You can use pretty much anything that will hold seed starting mixture.  We have Jiffy pots, peat pots and reusable seed starting trays/"greenhouses" here in the store, and you can also use home-made newspaper pots, recycled cottage cheese containers, paper cups or even empty cardboard egg cartons to start your seeds.  If you're re-using trays or containers from a previous year, wash them thoroughly and then let them soak for a few minutes in a 1:9 bleach and water solution to kill any disease organisms they may harbor.
• Seed starting mixture.  There are several options for seed starting mixture, but the important features are that it must be light and drain well.  You can buy pre-mixed seed starting medium, or make your own (one recipe here).  Keep in mind that if you use a compost-based starting mix, you won't have to worry as much about fertilizing - Dr. Earth's Root Zone Starter Mix has seaweed fertilizer and beneficial bacteria mixed right in. If you prefer to use a soilless mix, we have several kinds of starter fertilizers and foods, including Bonide Plant Starter Food, Dr. Earth Root Zone Starter Fertilizer and Espoma's Bio-Tone Starter Plus.  Seedlings in a soilless, nutrient-free medium should be fed when they develop their true leaves, and once a week thereafter.
• A space that's heated but not too hot, and that has lots of natural light.  Seeds need heat to germinate (soil temperature should be around 75°-85° F), so keeping the flats or pots on top of the refrigerator or in another warm spot until they germinate can be a big help.  After they've sprouted, move them to an area with plenty of light and an air temperature between 60° and 70°F.

The Luxuries

• Heat mats.  These little gems keep the soil at an optimal temperature for seed germination and growth, and can help keep seedlings from falling victim to damping off, which is a fungal disease caused by cool, damp, overcrowded conditions.
• Supplemental lights.  Kept about 3" above the tops of your seedlings, they encourage sturdy, stocky plants.  They also eliminate the need to move your plants around to assure that all seedlings get an equal dose of sunlight.  You don't need to spend a lot of money on "grow lights" - a bank of fluorescent shop lights are perfectly adequate for most seed-starting endeavors.  
• A fan.  A gentle breeze blowing through your seedlings has multiple benefits.  First, it keeps air circulating so moisture can't build up and cause damping off.  Second, it keeps excess heat from building up.  And finally, it (along with sufficient light) can help encourage stocky, sturdy plants.

If You Have Questions

Starting your plants from seed is a fascinating and gratifying experience, but sometimes problems can crop up.  If you have questions, please give us a call at 802/442-2851.  Penny Ela is our gardening specialist at Whitman's, and many of the staff here are pretty "garden competent".  We also have a good selection of books on gardening, so whatever your gardening question, we have you covered!

Oh the Weather Outside is Frightful ... For Pets, Too! Cold Weather Dangers for Pets

A timely reminder from M. Kathleen Shaw, DVM of the VT Veterinary Medical Association:

"Temperatures are dropping, and with the colder weather, it's time to think about the dangers this presents for our pets, both indoors and outdoors only ones.  By taking a few common sense precautions, you can help reduce the cold weather dangers to your pets.

"Although some pets are conditioned to cold weather, veterinary experts agree that you should bring outdoor pets indoors if the temperature drops below 20 degrees Fahrenheit.  Puppies, kittens, and short haired pets should not be left outside for extended periods of time anytime the temperature goes below 40 degrees.  For pets with long hair, proper grooming is essential to help them maintain a layer of warming air within their coat.  Pets who are heavily matted cannot keep themselves warm.

"If your pet must stay outdoors, be sure to provide shelter for your pet:  they can suffer from frostbite and hypothermia just like we do.  A pet's outdoor house must have at least three enclosed sides, be elevated off the ground, and contain generous amounts of bedding such as straw or hay.  In colder weather, bigger is not always better.  A house just big enough for your pet will warm up faster and retain heat better than something that is too big.  Your outdoor pet will need access to fresh water that isn't frozen.  Use heated water bowls and replenish them frequently.

"Cats love to warm up underneath car hoods.  If cats have access to your car outdoors or in your garage, be sure to pound on the hood of the car prior to starting it.  Many cats are killed or grievously injured by fan belts and moving engine parts.  Another danger that cars present to pets in cold weather is antifreeze poisoning.  If you suspect your pet has consumed any antifreeze at all, call your veterinarian immediately.

"Consider keeping dogs on a leash when they go outside.  Each winter we see cases of dogs that have gone off exploring "frozen" lakes or streams and fall through the ice into the frigid water.

"Inside the house, monitor all pets around wood-burning stoves, fireplaces and space heaters.  These can cause severe burns.  Younger pets romping through the house can knock objects onto these heat sources and cause a fire, so make sure to "pet-proof" the areas around them.  Wit the colder darker months, many people like to use candles in the home.  Make sure to place them where pets (especially cats) do not have access.  The can not only tip over the candle, they can set their fur on fire leading to serious burns.

"Our pets can suffer from arthritis in cold weather, just like humans do and it is just as painful for them.  If you are unsure if your pet has arthritis, want to know ways to keep our older pets comfortable during the cold weather, or if you have questions about cold weather issues with your pets, talk to your veterinarian."

Winter Seminar Series 2015

Whitman's is pleased to bring you yet another series of enjoyable, informative seminars.  They're held every Wednesday evening from 6:30 - 8:00 pm; each presentation runs roughly 1 hour, with a Q&A session afterward.  We have some returning speakers, and some new faces as well, and they'll be covering a wide and eclectic range of subjects.

This year's schedule:

Jan. 14:  ”Saddle Fitting” with Kitt Hazelton of Panther Run Saddlery.  She’ll cover the basics of English and western saddle fit, explain how to evaluate saddle fit and offer some fitting solutions for “problem” conformations.

Jan. 21:  ”Beekeeping 101″ with Rob Greene, Vice-President of Bennington County Beekeepers Club, Ltd.  Learn the basics of backyard beekeeping and the benefits of bee products.

Jan. 28:  ”Electric Fencing” with Greg Miller of Gallagher Fencing.  Greg will cover the lesser-known uses of electric fencing, such as protecting your bees, keeping deer out of your flowers and varmints out of your vegetable garden.  Come with your questions on electric fencing!

Feb. 4:  ”Poultry 101:  Back to the Basics” with Makenzie Fitzpatrick of Blue Seal Feeds.  Ever wanted a backyard flock?  Mackenzie will cover choosing, starting and raising your birds as well as how to house, contain, feed and care for them.

Feb. 11:   ”Second Annual Equine Quiz Night” with Dr. Shannon Guy of Arlington Equine.  A fun and informative night – come test your knowledge of equine health and veterinary topics!

Feb 18:  ”Beef 101:  Back to the Basics” with Makenzie Fitzpatrick of Blue Seal Feeds.  The ABCs of feeding, raising and caring for your beef cattle.

Feb 25:  ”Finding Neutral” with Tess Meyer.  Using a combination of basic techniques, Tess will address common misconceptions that can lead to roadblocks with your equine partner, and offer simple exercises to improve communication and connection between you and your horse.

Mar. 4:  ”‘Friendly’ Gardening Solutions” with Peter Bowden of Hewitt’s Garden Center.  Want to control garden pests without harmful chemicals?  Peter will discuss non-toxic, organic, eco-and pet friendly methods to protect your gardens.

Hope to see you there!

Obedience Training for Your Dog - it's a Good Thing

"A dog is man's best friend."  I don't know many people who'd disagree with that statement.  The companionship, love, loyalty and enjoyment they bring are indeed gifts, and many people look at their dogs as members of their family.  And as with other family members, dogs need to know how to be polite and behave themselves, how to listen to whomever's in charge and how to deal with humans and other animals outside their immediate family ... and that's where obedience classes come in.

What will you and your dog learn in obedience classes?  Of course, you'll learn basic commands like "come", "sit", and "heel", but you'll also learn much, much more.  The first thing you'll learn is how to make your dog focus on you.  Obviously, you can't teach your dog to obey even the most basic of commands unless s/he's paying attention.  Getting your dog's attention - and keeping it - builds a very strong bond between the two of you, and reinforces your position as "pack leader"; it will ensure that your dog looks to your for direction rather than taking its own initiative.  This means they'll check with you for an "ok" before going to investigate that trash can or chasing that squirrel, and you can redirect their attention in a positive way.

Socialization is another thing your dog will gain in class.  This is especially important for pups - they need to understand at a young age that other dogs and people are okay, and learn how to behave around them.  Lack of socialization can make a dog suspicious or fearful of critters and people s/he doesn't know; that can make going to the vet, the groomer, the dog park or even on a walk around the neighborhood a stressful and potentially hazardous situation.

Classes are also a lot of fun.  You and your dog will have quality time together, you'll get to meet other like-minded dogs and people, and gain the satisfaction of knowing you're laying the base for your dog to become a good canine citizen.  And who knows, you might become inspired to pursue further training with your dog, like rally, agility or dock diving.  If your dog shows an aptitude, you could go for the Canine Good Citizen certification, Therapy Dog certification, or even Search and Rescue training.  The possibilities are amazing!

Here at Whitman's, David Stacco offers obedience classes every Monday and Tuesday nights (except during December).  The classes run for 9 weeks, and each class is about 45 minutes long.  Beginner classes are on Monday nights, with intermediate/advanced classes on Tuesday. The next session begins on Jan. 5, 2015, and dogs and pups over 12 weeks of age are encouraged to attend. Cost is $95 for the beginner classes (includes training collar and lead) and $85 for the intermediate/advanced classes.  Give David a call at (802) 442-2851 or email dave@whitmansfeed.com for further info.

Halloween Can be Spooky for Pets

A timely post from the VT Veterinary Medical Assn. by M. Kathleen Shaw, DVM:

"Many people like to have fun during the Halloween festivities, but our pets can truly be frightened by all of the noise and costumes.  Halloween is a holiday with many dagners for our dogs and cats.

Dressing up is fun for humans, but may not be fun for our pets.  If your pet tolerates a costume, keep in mind your pet must be comfortable at all times.  Avoid any costumes that use rubber banks or anything that might constrict circulation or breathing.  Likewise, avoid costumes with toxic paints, dyes, or that are deible.

"Costumes on people can be equally scary to pets.  Masks, large hats, and other costume accessories can confuse pets and may even trigger territorial instincts.  It is not unusual for bets to act protective and fearful of people in costumer, even if they are normally very social with that person.  Remember, you are responsible for controlling your pet and insuring that he doesn't bite any guests.

"Constant visitors to the door along with spooky sights and sounds may cause pets to escape and become injured in a variety of ways.  Consider letting your dog spend Halloween inside with special treats, safe and secure.  Even in a fenced yard, Halloween is not a good night for a dog to be outside.  This is doubly true for cats:  they may try to bolt out the door and even if they are allowed outside, they are more at risk for being hit by cars due to the high traffic from trick or treaters.  Black cats, especially, are at a higher risk from human cruelty on Halloween.  Considerkeeping your cats in an interior room where they are unable to bolt out the door5.

Some Halloween decorations an be unsafe for your pets.  Fake cobwebs or anything resembling string can be tempting to cats, leading to an intestinal obstruction.  Candles, even inside pumpkins, can be easily knocked over, burning your pet or even lighting them (it has happened before) or your house on fire!

"Keep pets away from all Halloween candy.  Most people know that chocolate can be toxic to pets, even in small amounts.  However lollipop sticks and foil wrappers can cause blockages in the intestinal tract.  Candy sweetened with xylitol can cause a life threatening drop in blood sugar if ingested by a pet.  Some pets can get an upset stomach just from eating a piece of candy, since it isn't a part of their regular diet.

"These simple responsible precautions will help humans and pets like have a safe holiday.  For more information on how to make Halloween less stressful to your pet, contact your veterinarian."

Slow Hay Feeders - the Benefits

Horses are designed to graze.  "Little and often" is the ideal situation.  In a perfect world, our horses would have access to good pasture 24/7 so they can eat the way they're designed to ... but we don't live in a perfect world.

Some horses live primarily in stalls with limited (or no) access to a pasture where they can graze.  They're fed 2 or 3 times a day, and - especially with horses in heavy training or competition - their diet is often high in concentrates.  Other horses, due to obesity or a metabolic issue, have to be kept on dry lots and their food intake restricted.  But in both cases, the food is usually consumed quickly, and then the horse has to wait until the next feeding, which is often hours away.

Slow hay feeders can be a big help for horses who don't (or can't) have access to unlimited grazing.  They're marketed under many different names (NibbleNet, Hay Pillow, Cinch Net and Greedy Feeder are just a few), but their basic design and effect are the same:  they have smaller holes than traditional hay nets, so horses have to nibble the hay out a little at a time.  This slows down consumption so it's more like grazing -  "little and often".

There are several benefits to using slow hay feeders:

• Constant access to high-fiber forage (hay) will make sure there's always food and saliva in the stomach, which buffers stomach acid and helps maintain a normal pH. This may be a help in preventing the development of gastric ulcers.
• It will take longer for your horse to consume his hay, and that will keep him occupied.  Boredom is a real issue in stalled / confined horses, so keeping them entertained by making their feed last longer can help stave off vices like stall walking, cribbing and weaving.
• Studies in the UK have shown a correlation between boredom-related vices and an increased risk of recurrent colic, so keeping your horse occupied with a slow feeder may help reduce the risk of colic as well.
• There's a lot less waste.  If you horse is the type who likes to nose through the hay to get to the choice bits first, you know that they often scatter, trample and ultimately waste a good deal of it in the process.  They can't indulge in that behavior when you use a slow feeder, so there's less waste of hay - and money!

A COUPLE HELPFUL HINTS

Head-Down Feeding

 "I'd love to use a slow-feed hay net, but I want my horse to eat with her head down.  If I put the net on the ground, she could get it snagged in her shoe, or catch her leg in it." That's a valid safety concern, and there are solutions.  One is to buy a "box" slow feeder (www.grazingbox.com is one example) but the durable, well-made ones are often quite expensive, and shipping costs often rival the purchase price.  Here's a more budget-friendly, DIY solution:  get a tub or small stock tank, or build a wooden box manger that's large enough to hold your hay net and tall enough so your horse can't step into it.  Install 4 sturdy eye screws in the bottom (with a washer and nut on the outside if you're using a tub or tank) and get 4 equally sturdy double-ended snaps that are large enough to clip to the eye screw.  Clip one end of the snap to the eye screw, put your full hay net in and clip the free end to it.  Presto - a safe ground-level slow feeder!  Just be sure that your box/tub/tank is either secured to an immovable object, or heavy enough to stay put while your horse pulls hay from the net.

Save Stuffing for the Turkey

Don't overfill your nets or bags. If you want to make sure your horse has constant access to hay, it's better to use a couple large-capacity feeders.  Jamming the net mega-full can make it hard for your horse to pull the hay out, and that may frustrate her.  Some horses will simply give up and go without eating, while others will yank so hard they may pull the feeder down. This can be a real safety hazard, as we discussed above, and it's a pain to have to keep replacing your hay net! 

Stop by the tack shop's page and see what we have for slow-feed hay nets!

Ride Safely During Hunting Season

Here in Vermont, 2014's big game hunting season started on Sept. 1 and runs, for one game animal or another, until Dec 14.  Many horse people like to trail ride through the woods at this time of year, enjoying our glorious foliage, the cooler temperatures and a reduced population of bugs ... but many are also concerned about sharing the woods with hunters carrying (depending on the season) bows, rifles or muzzle loaders.  Caution should be exercised, but with proper preparation and equipment, hunters and trail riders can share the woods safely.

RULE 1:  BE AWARE.  It's a good idea to know which season is currently running so you can know what you're likely to find out there.  During deer rifle season, for example, you're probably going to see hunters wearing blaze orange.  Turkey hunters, on the other hand, tend to favor more camouflage, so they'll be harder to spot.  Many deer hunters, whether using rifles or bows, hunt from tree stands, so remember to look up, too - lots of hunters have stories about hikers and rider who pass under their tree stands, never realizing there was a hunter overhead!  You can find a schedule of Vermont's big game seasons at the VT Fish and Wildlife website.

RULE 2:  BE HEARD.  You don't have to ride through the woods yelling as loudly as you can, but noise can make a hunter aware of you before you're visible.  Carrying on a conversation with your riding partner at a level that allows you to hear each other over the creak of tack, the crunch of leaves and the thud of hoofbeats will be loud enough to warn hunters of your presence.  Sing a song, recite poetry, or talk to your horse.  You can also hang a couple small cow bells from your horse's tack - the high-pitched jangle will be clearly audible and carry well.

RULE 3:  BE VISIBLE.  Blaze orange is commonly worn by hunters, so they're more likely to be "on alert" for that color than any other. We have blaze orange trail sheets (similar to a quarter sheet), helmet covers and trail bags from Mac Mountain Tack Repair that offer a high degree of visibility.  They're washable, lightweight and breathable (the helmet cover is made of a stretch lycra, and the "horse gear" is made from a vinyl covered poly mesh),  Mac Mountain also makes the Protectavest; it's a blaze orange vest that covers your horse's shoulders and chest and makes your horse very visible while out in the pasture (and we have those as well).  You can also braid ribbons of blaze orange surveying tape into your horse's mane and tail, or hang streamers of it from your saddle and bridle.

High-visibility yellow is another "safe" color to wear during hunting season.  We have leg and tail bands for the horse, kits for your bridle and halter, and helmet bands and vests for the rider.  This gear is also reflective, which makes it a good choice for those who like to ride in the early morning or later in the evening, or if you ride in areas with vehicle traffic.

Finally, consider a flashing light.  This will make hunters aware of you before sound or blaze orange will, especially in low-light conditions.  We have compact, light-weight flashers with 5 LED bulbs that are super-bright, water resistant and run on two AA batteries. They can be attached to your helmet, your arm, your boot or half-chap, your tack or your horse's tail.

(NOTE:  If all of this sounds like overkill, remember that "less is more" is NOT a rule to follow during hunting season.  So what if you and your horse are a jingling, LED-flashing, reflective mass of blaze orange and high-visibility yellow?  During hunting season, that's the look that will make sure you're noticed and safe!)

RULE 4:  BE PRUDENT.  A little caution and forethought can go a long way toward staying safe.

• If you know an area is a favored hunting spot, it might be best to avoid it at this time of year.  
• Whenever possible, ride on or near "posted" land, and be sure to keep to well-marked, open trails and fields - this is NOT a time of year to go bushwhacking!  
• If the trails in your area aren't well cleared with good visibility, consider spending this time brushing up on your ring work.  
• You may also choose to trail ride only during the week, when hunters aren't as likely to be out. 
• When you encounter a hunter, ask if s/he has seen any other hunters in the area.  
• If you see hunters heading in the direction you're going to ride, remember that you can turn around and ride elsewhere.
• Remember that, during rifle and muzzleloader season, you may be hearing gunshots, and your horse may spook as a result.  If your horse is extremely sensitive to loud noises, it might be best to stick to the arena during those seasons.

RULE 5:  BE RESPECTFUL.  If you see a hunter, please don't start yelling at the top of your lungs.  You may startle the hunter or scare away the game s/he's been patiently hunting. Treat them the way you'd like to be treated, and chances are very good that they'll return the favor. 

Remember that "no trespassing" signs apply to everyone - including you, unless you have permission from the land owner to ride across the property!  Of course, if you see someone disregarding a "posted" or "no trespassing" sign, the land owner would appreciate hearing about it.  It may be someone who has permission to hunt there ... or it may not; either way, the land owner should be notified. 

Here's hoping that everyone - hunter and horseback rider - has a happy and safe season!

Electric Fencing - the Basics

Electric fencing is probably one of the most popular types of fencing on the market today.  It can be used on its own or in conjunction with another type of fencing (like wood, wire or PVC/rubber); it can keep your critters contained, or it can keep other critters out.  It's flexible, adaptable and - especially when compared to other types of fencing - quite economical. So what do you have to know in order to set up an effective electric fence?  Here are the basics from Todd Saunders, our electric fence guru.

THE BASIC COMPONENTS (WHAT YOU'LL NEED)

We carry a wide variety of Gallagher fencers, fencing, components and accessories here at Whitman's, and we can guide you through installing and maintaining your electric fence.  Here's a list of the basic things you'll need to get started:

• The fencer (aka charger or energizer).  This can be a plug-in model, or it can be solar or battery powered.  This is the energy source that gets the electricity to the fencing.  Modern fencers are low-impedance, which means they deliver a regular pulse of energy rather than a constant flow, as the old "weed chopper" fencers did.  Fencers are rated in miles they can energize, volts, amps and/or joules.  In general, the higher the number, the more powerful the fencer.  The only exception to this is the joule rating - that simply indicates the power and consistency with which the voltage is pumped through the fencing.  
• Fencing.  This can be mesh, braid, wire or tape; this is the part that carries the voltage and creates the physical boundary.  
• Insulators.  These are the interface between the fence post and the wire; they keep the fencing from coming into contact with the post, "grounding out" and losing its zap.  You can get plastic or ceramic insulators designed for the type of posts you're using (see below).  Plastic insulators are inexpensive and easy to install (if you miss the nail and hammer the plastic insulator while installing it, it won't ruin the insulator), but like any plastic, they'll eventually degrade in sunlight.  Ceramic insulators are more expensive and fussier to install - they may break if you miss the nail and hit the insulator instead - but they'll probably still be working long after the post they're attached to has rotted or rusted out.
• Grounding system.  You'll need at least 2 or 3 ground poles (usually about 6' long and made of galvanized metal), pounded into the ground roughly 10 feet apart, connected to the grounding terminal of the fencer.  Keep in mind that the more powerful the fencer, the more grounding poles it will need; 
• Insulated electric fence wire.  This will connect your ground poles to your fencer, and your fencer to your fencing.
• Fence posts.  You can use fiberglass, metal or wood posts, depending on your needs (and budget).  For a temporary fence, fiberglass "step in" posts are a good option, since they're inexpensive and easy to install and remove.  For permanent fences, metal or wood posts are a stronger and more durable option; wood is less expensive than metal, but metal posts will probably last longer than wood (depending on the climate in which they're used). 

HOW LARGE?

Now that you have a list of equipment, you need to figure out how much area you'll be fencing, and how many strands of wire/tape/braid you plan to install.  As an example, let's say that you need to fence a rectangular 20'x40' area.

Let's see ... 20 + 20 + 40 + 40 = 120.  So you need a fencer that can electrify 120 linear feet ... right? That's right ... if you're only running one strand of fence.  If you need 2 strands, you'll have 240' of fencing to electrify; for three strands, it will be 360' ... and so on.  So you need to choose a fencer that's strong enough to electrify the total length of all the strands of fence you'll be running - not just the linear feet of the perimeter.

HOW MUCH POWER (LOOKING TO THE FUTURE)

It's usually recommended to get the most powerful fencer you can afford.  Look for a fencer that's rated a minimum of 1 joule; if you can afford one with a higher rating, get it.  Remember that the joule rating tells you how consistently and powerfully the "jolt" is being delivered, not how many volts the charger is generating.  You may have a fencer that's strong enough to to energize 50 miles of fencing and contain an elephant (yes, there are chargers that claim they're suitable for that), but unless that charge is running consistently and strongly through your fencing, it won't do much to contain your animals.

A powerful fencer will not only do a great job at energizing your current fence, it will also give you a lot more flexibility.  At some point in the future, you may decide your 20'x40' area is no longer adequate for your needs, or you may decide to increase one strand of fencing to 5 strands.  If you have a 0.2 joule fencer, your ability to expand may be more limited than you'd like, and a new fencer may be the only option.  So start with the most fencer you can afford; it won't hurt to have a big fencer energizing a small area, and down the road, you may be thankful for that extra power.

TYPES OF FENCING

The type of electric fencing you'll need will depend on what you're trying to accomplish.  If you just want a something electric to keep your horses from leaning on your wooden fence, running a single strand of galvanized wire on the inside of the fence along the top rail will work beautifully.  However, if electric fence is going to be your only method of containment, galvanized wire isn't the best answer, as it's very hard for your livestock to see and you run the risk of them (or some wild creature) breaking the fence or getting tangled in it.  High-visibility poly braid, rope or tape would be better solutions; they do the same job as the galvanized wire, with the addition of being easier for your animals to see.  You can get the standard type or "turbo" fencing.; turbo fencing has higher conductivity than standard fencing, so the electricity is carried more effectively and provides more jolt.

TYPES OF CHARGERS

Chargers come in three different types:  plug in 110 volt fencers, battery-powered fencers and solar fencers. Plug-ins are probably the most reliable, offer the most consistent performance, and - since you don't have to keep supplying them with batteries - the most affordable.  Even the biggest, most powerful fencers won't make much of an increase in your electric bill.  However, if you live in an area with frequent power outages, having a backup system would be advisable.  You can install either a battery or solar fencer as back up, or plug your electric fencer into a generator.

Battery powered fencers are generally less expensive to purchase than plug-in or solar units and are fairly reliable, as long as you're vigilant about the shape the battery's in.  As the battery disperses its energy, the jolt it supplies becomes weaker and weaker, so you can't let it "run dry".  In reality you need to have 2 batteries for that type of fencer:  one in the fencer, and one - fully charged - to replace the first when it's getting low and while it's being recharged.  And of course, batteries will eventually need to be replaced when they no longer hold a charge, so that adds to the overall cost.

Solar fencers are the most expensive to purchase, and - at least in our neck of the woods - the least reliable.  While they require only 8 hrs. of light a day (and direct sunlight isn't required), we find that their performance is somewhat inconsistent, especially in overcast weather.  They tend to work best in areas with strong, continuous sunlight.

MAINTAINING YOUR FENCING

Electric fencing is pretty low-maintenance - it doesn't rot or rust, and animals won't chew it or lean on it.  Just make sure to keep it clear of weeds, grass or fallen branches; be sure the insulators are whole and keeping the wire/tape off the posts (metal posts will short out a fence if the wire touches it) and that the tape, rope or braid isn't frayed.

Probably your biggest maintenance chore will be checking the voltage on a regular basis.  We carry reliable, easy-to-use digital voltmeters that will tell you immediately if your fencer is performing the way it should.   Check your voltage as far from the fencer as possible when you first install your fencing so you have a good idea of your baseline number; it should be at least 4000 volts.  A lower number may indicate that your fencer is faulty, or that it isn't powerful enough to charge your entire fence line. Keep a consistent eye on your voltage; it's common for your reading to be lower in the morning (moisture on the fence can cause temporary current leakage), but if you notice a significant drop - 1500 to 2000 volts - it means you need to look for problems.  It could be grass or brush on the fencing, it could be a frayed wire, or it could be a malfunctioning charger.  It's always best to be proactive in these cases; most animals can sense when the current in the fence is weak, and many will take advantage of it immediately!

Tomatoes and Late Blight

Picture this:  your tenderly-nurtured tomato plants are heavily burdened with green tomatoes; some have that first delicate flush of red, and in just a short time, you'll be rolling in what many folks consider to be the pinnacle of garden excellence:  a vine-ripened tomato fresh off the plant.  You entertain images of roasted tomatoes, grilled tomatoes, tomato salads, tomato sauce, tomato juice ... you can practically taste them!  Then you notice a greyish, white-speckled spot on one stem ... then on another ... and another.  You can kiss your tomato dreams good-bye at this point:  your plants are infected with late blight.

WHAT IS LATE BLIGHT?
Late blight is a disease caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans.  This fungus effects potatoes as well as tomatoes, and was the cause of the Irish Potato Famine in the 1840s.  It can spread like wildfire, as the pathogen can produce huge numbers of infectious spores that will travel on the wind.   There's no cure for late blight - infected plants must be destroyed immediately, before more plants are effected; spore germination to symptoms takes about 7 days, so immediate action is of the utmost importance.  The good news is that with proper planting, husbandry and preparation, it's preventable.

BEATING BLIGHT
There are several things you can do to help prevent blight.  First, look for tomato varieties that are blight resistant.  While no tomato is completely immune, breeders are working on varieties that are less susceptible to the fungus - Mountain Magic and Plum Regal are two (and more info on resistant varieties here).  Planting early-maturing varieties is also a good strategy; that way, you may be able to get at least a modest harvest before late blight "season" rolls around.

The way you care for your plants is important, too.  Cool, wet conditions are perfect for the development of blight, so the following guidelines will create a "blight-unfriendly" environment:

• Stake or trellis your tomato plants to maximize light and airflow around the plants.
• Be sure to allow enough space between plants. Dwarf varieties can be spaced about 12" apart, determinate/bush-type plants can be spaced about 24" apart, but sprawling, indeterminate varieties may need 36" - 48".
• Water with drip irrigation, soaker hoses or by watering the soil - NOT the plant!  Water early in the day so the plant is dry when the sun goes down and temperatures drop.
• If you grow potatoes, but sure you rotate your planting and don't plant tomatoes in the same spot you grew potatoes the year before (or potatoes where your tomatoes were the previous year).
• If you missed a few potatoes during last fall's harvest and some volunteer plants show up this spring, destroy them.  While it's believed that the fungus can't over-winter in the soil, it can over-winter in potatoes, so best to be safe and destroy them.
• It's also believed that the spores can't survive in dead plant material, but until the plant dies, the spores are alive and kicking - so remove and destroy diseased plants immediately.  Bag them in black plastic or cover them with black plastic or tarp until they're good and dead, then throw them in the trash - do NOT compost diseased plants!
• Preventive spraying with an organic product like Actinovate (which contains Streptomyces lydicus, a beneficial bacteria) may help prevent blight.  Copper fungicide should be applied when late blight is present to keep it from spreading to healthy plants.  Bonide (which we carry) has great info on copper fungicides and their use on their web site.

It's also important to know late blight when you see it.  There are some conditions that appear similar - early  blight and septoria leaf blight are two, and drought-stresses plants can show similar symptoms as well.  And please remember, if you have late blight in your garden, let your neighbors know as soon as possible - since the spores are windborne, they can travel to neighboring gardens; putting your neighbors on alert will allow them to start preventive treatment before their crops can be damaged.

Learn more about late blight and how to recognize it at USABlight.org and http://www.longislandhort.cornell.edu/vegpath/photos/lateblight_tomato.htm.

Caring for Your Tack

"Chances are, if it's good, it's not gonna be cheap.  And chances are, if it's cheap, it's not gonna be good." - Anonymous

 That statement is true about many things - and especially about leather tack.  Good quality tack isn't inexpensive - it's not just a purchase, it's an investment.  But here's the good news:  given the proper care, tack can last for decades - literally. It's not unusual to see quality tack from the early 2000s (and even the 1990s) still in daily use and in safe-and-sound condition. And more good news:  this kind of longevity doesn't require you to spend hours disassembling and reassembling and slaving away with saddle soap!

The first thing to remember is that leather is skin, and needs to be treated that way.   A good rule to follow is that if you don't want to put it on your hands, you don't want to put it on your tack!  Leather needs to be kept clean and hydrated, and in the neutral pH range (around 6-8 on the scale).  Use products specifically designed for tack, because tanning methods vary depending on the type of leather and the product the leather will eventually become.  Products meant for boots, leather clothing or car interiors aren't meant for tack!

The best way to care for your tack and ensure its longevity is to wipe it down with a damp cloth or sponge after every use.  This takes less than 5 minutes for both saddle and bridle, and keeps dirt from building up.  It also removes sweat, which can stiffen and stain your leather, and it gives you a chance to notice any safety issues that may crop up, so you can have the worn bit repaired or replaced before it becomes a safety hazard. If you aren't that vigilant and find that you have some dirt jockeys after a few rides, use a good, pH balanced cleaner like Effol or Belvoir - they're very effective at removing dirt, and are gentle to your leather.  Plain old glycerin saddle soap or Kirk's Castile soap are fine, too - just make sure that you wipe all the the residue off your saddle, as any remaining soap film will attract dust and dirt.  (The green gunk you often see around saddle nails and bridle buckles is glycerin soap residue.) Every couple of weeks (the actual schedule will depend on the weather, and how much and in what conditions your tack is used), give your tack a light coat or two of a well-balanced commercial conditioner.  The key here is light. You want the conditioner to be absorbed immediately, so be careful not to over-apply; two or three light coats will be far better than one heavy coat.  Remember to condition both the top and underside of the flaps and jockeys, as the underside (flesh side) will absorb conditioner more efficiently than the upper (hair) side.

Now, a word about oil.  Yes, it's a necessary component in leather care, and all commercial conditioners contain oil, along with fats and waxes. And yes, too little will result in dry, brittle leather.  However, too much oil can be the kiss of death for leather as well.  Oil is absorbed quite readily by leather, and if too much is applied, it will penetrate deep into the collagen matrix and weaken the fibers, allowing them to stretch. If you've ever seen a piece of leather with about as much resilience as a wet dish towel, you've likely seen over-oiled leather.  Leather in that state should be considered unsafe for use.

Where you store your tack is another issue that will effect its longevity.  If possible, store it in a climate-controlled, well-ventilated area away from excess humidity.  If you don't have access to that sort of area, you can use conditioner that contains phenol - like Leather Therapy or Belvoir - to help inhibit the mold and mildew that will invariably invade leather in hot, humid conditions. Your saddle should be stored on a rack, and should always be covered to protect it from dust and the claws of your barn cat.  Don't store your sweaty, wet saddle pad or blanket on the same rack - that's a perfect environment for fungal growth - and don't drape your girth or cinch over your saddle seat unless it's dry and clean.  You can store your bridle on a rack as well; you can put it in a bridle bag, or drape an old pillow case or towel to protect it and keep the dust off. Just be sure there's adequate ventilation so any moisture can evaporate - don't store leather in plastic or other non-permeable materials.

A little bit of care goes a long way toward protecting your tack, and will help make sure you get years of safe use from it.

Saltwater Aquariums for Beginners

Saltwater aquariums - "reef tanks" - are a great hobby.  They add beauty and interest to your home, and saltwater fish are some of the most colorful and fascinating in the world.  Our aquarium expert, Rick Stacco, has this advice to offer to anyone interested in setting up a saltwater aquarium.

The first things you'll need are a tank, a filter, a pump, a heater, a thermometer, a hydrometer and a good UV light.  You'll also need reef crystals (sea salt), marine sand or crushed coral for the bottom of the tank, and test strips to monitor ammonia and pH levels.  A 20-gallon aquarium is a good size to start with.  Consult with a sales associate who's knowledgeable about keeping a reef aquarium - they'll be able to help you find the right equipment.  The pump cycles the water and adds air bubbles, while the filter keeps the water clean by filtering out organic matter.  The thermometer lets you know your water temperature so you can adjust your heater accordingly; the best temperature for most reef tanks is 79°-82° F.  The UV light enhances color and will be necessary if you want to grow coral.

You'll make your own salt water by adding reef crystals to fresh water.  Use the hydrometer to measure the salinity of the water, which should be 1.022.  You'll have to measure this frequently to and add water to adjust the salinity.  It's usually best to add fresh water, check the salinity and add more reef crystals as needed; adding water that already has salt mixed in can result in water that's too saline, and that's not good.  You'll also need to monitor ammonia levels to be sure they stay low, and pH (which should be between 8.0 and 8.4) and adjust as necessary.

It will take about 7-9 weeks for your tank to "cycle" - that is, to develop the natural bacteria that keep your tank healthy, so for that initial period, it's best to have some hardy fish who can deal with some ups and downs.  Damsel fish are hardy and inexpensive, they get along well when they're young and they're beautiful as well.  The rule of thumb for populating your tank is 1" of fish per gallon of water, so you could have 10 2" fish in a 20 gallon aquarium, or 20 1" fish.  Just remember that your fish will grow, so take that into account; it's better to err on the side of too few fish to allow them sufficient room so they aren't crowded and territorial issues don't come up.  After your tank has cycled and you have more experience in maintaining a healthy environment, you can start adding new fish, soft coral and other sea life to your tank.

Garden Know-How by Sandy Edwards

Don't like to weed your garden?  Next time you plant, think about sowing your leafy crops, radishes, beet green, carrots etc. in small blocks instead of rows.  They'll grow in thickly and, like the water plants in your pond, choke out the weeds by depriving them of nutrients and sunlight.  For the root crops, start thinning as necessary, but keep them thicker than they'd be in a standard row.  You can do the same with your corn - small blocks with short, narrow rows.  This discourages weeds and promotes better pollination, giving you a better crop with less work.

Speaking of corn, try the relatively new variety - Applause - and enhanced Bodacious variety.  It's extra-sweet and stays longer on the plant before the sugars start turning to starch.  And for the BEST corn eating, here's a tip from my Iowa grandmother:  have your pot of lightly salted and sugared water boiling, then pick and shuck your corn.  NO starch - ALL SUGAR!