Conditioning Your Horse

Spring is finally on the way!  This winter was tough on everyone, and particularly tough on those who have horses.  The hip-deep snow, icy footing and intense cold made barn chores a major trial, let alone trying to ride, and many folks - even those with access to an indoor arena - simply decided that conditions were too extreme to ride. Now that the temperatures are climbing and the mud is drying up, everyone is looking forward to getting back into the arena or onto the trails. If your horse has had a few weeks (or longer) off, here are a few tips for bringing her back into condition.

(For those of you who are unfamiliar, this is a "Thelwell Pony," made famous by Norman Thelwell in his pony-themed books.  "Thelwell Pony" is code for "pretty darn fat".)

ASSESS THE ISSUE

Consider your horse's physical condition.  Has he gained weight?  Many do if they're lazing around, being a pasture ornament.  But some horses - especially those who have built muscle through regular work - will lose some of that muscle mass.  One good solution to both issues is a few weeks of ground work - longeing, long-lining, ground driving or in-hand work. Start with 10 minutes and gradually increase the length and intensity of the sessions.  It will build muscle, help your horse lose excess weight, and has the added plus of helping your horse re-focus on work and get the "spring silliness" out without putting yourself at risk of getting dumped!

"CONDITION" IS RELATIVE

Getting your horse as fit as possible is a good idea, but you have to factor in what your horse will be doing, how much time you realistically have to work your horse, and the extent of your horse's physical capabilities.  If your horse is used for casual trail riding, he won't need to be as fit as a horse used for competitive trail or endurance.  If you ride 3 times a week and show a couple times during the summer, your horse won't need to be as fit as a horse who's competing in horse trials every other weekend.  If you have an older horse with arthritis or other physical issues, or a youngster you're just starting, their conditioning programs need to be consistent with their physical capabilities.  So take a realistic look at what your horse's job is going to be, and plan accordingly.

TAKE IT SLOWLY

Have you ever sailed into an exercise program with great enthusiasm but little preparation?  If so, you know how body-sore you can get from doing too much too soon.  It's the same for your horse - soreness and even injury are very real possibilities, and can set your training back days or weeks.  So start slowly, and build gradually.  Many trainers like to start the season by hacking out at the walk. They start with a short interval - say, 20 minutes of active walking and "long and low" stretching - and build gradually. They'll do ring work as well, but always go back to the long walks to help build strength.  Then they'll add some trot work, and eventually some canter and gallop work.  This sort of cross-training is excellent for horses of all disciplines, not just physically. but mentally, too.  How would you feel if all you ever did for exercise was ride a stationary bike, or jog on a treadmill?  Taking breaks from arena work will keep your horse from getting bored and "ring-sour."  Conversely, trail / endurance horses benefit greatly from ring work and basic flat work and dressage - it helps keep them supple, balanced and working correctly.

FEEDING

An increase in physical activity may also require an adjustment in your horse's diet.  Ideally, a healthy horse in work should have access to free-choice hay or grazing, as well as the right amount and the right type of concentrates.   With advances in feed formulation and knowledge of equine nutrition, you no longer have to feed massive quantities of oats, corn and other grains and hope you find the happy medium between not enough energy and a horse that wants to swing from the rafters!  There are specific formulas available for horses in different levels of work, for youngsters, breeding horses and senior horses.  We have Poulin feeds here at Whitman's, and are always happy to offer input to help you choose the right feed for your horse.  We also have an excellent selection of supplements from Farnam, Life Data, Finish Line, AniMed, Source, Manna Pro and more.

GET PROFESSIONAL ADVICE

Getting your horse fit is, for the most part, an exercise in common sense.  If your horse is stiff the day after a workout, you might be progressing too quickly and need to scale back.  By the same token, if your horse is breathing easily after a 2 minute trot interval, it's probably time to increase the interval to 2 1/2 or 3 minutes.  But sometimes, you'll run into issues that puzzle you.  Maybe your horse doesn't seem to be losing any weight, even after 4 or 5 weeks of consistent work. Or maybe your horse seems stiff and body sore after even a very light workout, or maybe she's developed a slight unevenness when tracking left at the trot. When common sense isn't working, it's time to check in with your vet.  It could be a shoeing or dental issue, a saddle fit issue, or even something as simple as a slight tweak in or addition to your horse's diet.  But whatever's going on, finding the problem sooner than later is always good, and it can keep more serious issues from developing.

It's Chick Time! Getting Started With Layer Hens

Keeping a flock of laying hens offers quite a few benefits.  In addition to the fresh eggs, you'll have lots of manure to compost for your garden, there will  be fewer ticks, beetles and bugs around your property (if your hens are free-range), and a hungry flock will eagerly consume your carrot parings, apple cores, wilted lettuce and other vegetable refuse.  If you're thinking of raising your own laying hens, Whitman's can help.  We've started taking chick orders already, and will continue taking orders through the end of June (last date for ordering is July 1).  We also have all the feed and supplies you'll need to raise your layers and keep them healthy, happy and productive throughout their lives.

STARTING WITH CHICKS

Before your chicks arrive, you need to have their living quarters set up.  You'll need:

• A brooder.  This can be anything from a cardboard box, old stock tank or bathtub to a commercially-made brooder box.  You need to be sure it's large enough to accommodate the number of chicks you're getting, and that it's located in a dry, draft-free area (cold and dampness will kill chicks very quickly).  It should also have sides at least 18" high to prevent chicks from escaping, and it should be easy to clean.  It's often a good idea to start with a space larger than you think you'll need; you can always block part of it off when chicks are young and move the barrier as they grow and require more room.
• Bedding.  You want at least 2" of bedding to absorb messes and keep the brooder dry.  Pine shavings are good for chicks - they're soft, easy to clean out, and readily available.  You can also use ground corn cobs, peat moss, chopped straw or a commercial coop bedding like Lucerne's Koop Clean.  Don't use cedar bedding, as it can cause respiratory problems.  Sift through the bedding frequently, remove soil, and add more bedding as needed.
• A heat lamp.  Young chicks need warmth - around 90°F is their optimal temperature - and a heat lamp is the most reliable and easily-regulated heat source.  A hanging lamp is best, as you'll control temperature by raising or lowering the lamp.  A couple of days before your chicks arrive, experiment to find out what height is going to keep the brooder at the optimal temperature, and leave a thermometer in the brooder overnight to make sure the temperature remains constant.  Be sure to have the lamp on so the brooder is warm when your chicks arrive.  You'll reduce the temperature in the brooder by about 5°F each week down to a minimum of 55°F.
• A water fountain.  Clean, fresh water is essential for chicks (and for chickens), and while you can improvise and use pans, plastic containers or pie dishes, such containers aren't ideal.  They're easy for the chicks to poop in, and if a chick falls into or stands in one, they can get fatally chilled or even drown.  We carry several sizes of fountains - smaller is often better for chicks, as they don't require as much water as grown chickens, and the water - since it will be replenished more often - will stay fresher.
• Feeders.  We carry small, round chick feeders with multiple holes that the chicks stick their heads in to access the feed.  They make it easier for all chicks to get ample food, and they help keep things cleaner. You can use paper plates or other containers, but chicks are messy eaters and don't mind standing in their food, pooping in it and kicking it around.  That means a messy floor that will need cleaning more frequently.  Feeders will prevent this problem, and keep your chicks healthier, as they lower the risk of coccidiosis (a protozoan parasite that chicks pick up by eating droppings in their food, water or litter).  
• Feed.  Chicks, like any newborn creature, need a food formulated especially for them.  We carry Blue Seal's Home Fresh Chick Starter, which is a medicated feed that contains a preventative against coccidiosis.  If you prefer to go organic and unmedicated, we have Green Mountain Feeds Chick Starter (and other Green Mountain Organic chicken feed).
• Grit.  Hens don't have teeth, so all the grinding of their food is done in the gizzard,  If they're outside, they'll pick up and swallow tiny pebbles; these will go into the gizzard and be used to "chew" the food.  We sell chick grit by the pound so you don't have to buy 50 lbs. for your four chicks!

AS THEY GROW

Be sure to handle your chicks frequently.  This will make them easier to deal with if you have to restrain them for veterinary treatment, transportation or any other reason. But be sure you don't nuzzle or kiss your chicks, and that you wash your hands thoroughly after handling them or their equipment, or cleaning their box.  Chickens can carry and transmit salmonella, so good hygiene is a must. 

Your chicks will require more room as they grow, and their nutritional needs will change as well.  When your chicks are about 8 weeks old, you can change them from the chick starter to a grower crumble (like Blue Seal's Grow & Show).  It's lower in protein than the starter, and the best choice for your birds until they start laying at around 20 weeks.  At that point, you'll need to switch them to a layer mash, pellet or crumble, which will contain extra calcium for egg shell formation.  You can also offer oyster shells for supplemental calcium, which many hens love.

So, if you're ready to start a laying flock, stop on in,  We have a number of books on raising your chicks and caring for your layers, like Chick Days by Jenna Woginrich, Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens by Gail Damerow, and Keep Chickens by Barbara Kilarski.  You can also ask our resident chicken guru, Todd "Chicken Man" Saunders any questions you may have - just give him a call at 802/442-2851.

Maple Syrup!

There's an old joke about Vermont having five seasons instead of four:  spring, summer, fall, winter, and mud season.  While it's true that mud season can be pretty epic, everyone here at Whitman's will tell you that we actually have six seasons.  The sixth usually starts a little before mud season, right about this time of year, when the sun's providing more warmth and daytime temperatures start nosing above the freezing mark but still drop below freezing at night.  Any guesses?  Here are a few hints: Maple trees. Buckets.  Boiling.  That's right:  Vermont's sixth season is sugaring season.

Vermont is justly famous for the quality and quantity of its syrup (in 2013, 2 of every 5 gallons of maple syrup produced in the US came from VT), and it's not just the commercial producers with big sugar woods and miles of lines who are sugaring.  Lots of people have smaller operations - some produce enough so they can sell a few gallons, while others just tap a couple trees in the front yard and boil enough for their own needs.  So if you're interested in trying your hand at producing some syrup, we have what you need here at Whitman's.

The basic equipment for sugaring:

• 7/16" drill bit. 
• Spouts with hooks.
• Sap buckets with covers. (Yes, you can use other containers, but few things are as quintessentially Vermont as an old-fashioned sap bucket hanging on a maple tree).  We have new buckets, and some previously-used buckets in excellent condition.
• Large (at least 2 gallon capacity) pot.  We have canning pots that work beautifully.
• Syrup grading kit (not strictly necessary if you're only sugaring for home consumption, though it's nice to know what grade you produce).
• A good "how to" book.  We have several in stock, but for concise instructions delivered with dry Yankee humor, it's hard to beat Storey's Country Wisdom Bulletin "Making Maple Syrup the Old-Fashioned Way" by Noel Perrin.

First, you'll need to tap your trees.  You're going to drill about two feet off the ground and about two and a half inches into the tree, and on a slight upward angle so that gravity will help the sap run.  You can tap any sugar maple with a trunk at least 10" in diameter, and add another spout for each additional 6"-8" of diameter (maximum of 4 taps per tree).  

When you have your holes drilled, install the spouts by tapping them gently but firmly into the holes.  You don't want to drive them in too far, as they'll be very difficult to remove, but you want them in firmly enough to support your sap bucket.  Hang your buckets and check them in about 8 hrs.  When you have a couple gallons, you can start boiling!

Now, a word of wisdom here.  It takes a LOT of boiling, and much more sap than most people realize.  To produce a single cup of maple syrup, you'll need more than two gallons of sap; you have to reduce the sap to about 1/35th of its original volume.  So be sure you have at least a couple of gallons of sap to boil.

We won't go into the entire process here - that'll be covered in the "how to" book you're going to get - but after sufficient boiling and careful monitoring, you'll be rewarded with your very own batch of homemade maple syrup.  You might decide to try your hand again or even increase the number of taps and get a more professional set-up (again,you'll find information and resources on that in the "how to" book).  But even if you decide it isn't an experience you care to repeat, you'll have bragging rights and a very interesting story to tell!

Starting Seeds Indoors

It's that time of year again!  Even though we have lots of snow and truly Arctic temperatures at the moment, calendar spring is just 6 weeks away, and - for the majority of our area - the last frost date is only12-14 weeks away.  So if you're thinking of starting your own seeds, it's time to get moving.

ADVANTAGES

With some long-season veggies like tomatoes or melons, starting from seed (or buying plants) are your only options, since our growing season is too short for them to mature if seeded directly into the garden.  Starting your own seeds usually gives you a wider variety of plants to choose from, so you can experiment with heirloom and/or unusual varieties.  It also gives you the advantage of knowing where your plants came from, what pests and conditions they've been exposed to, and - especially important for organic growers - what has and hasn't been used for starter and fertilizer.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED

The Essentials

• Seeds (obviously!).
• Markers or labels so you know what you planted in each container.
• Containers.  You can use pretty much anything that will hold seed starting mixture.  We have Jiffy pots, peat pots and reusable seed starting trays/"greenhouses" here in the store, and you can also use home-made newspaper pots, recycled cottage cheese containers, paper cups or even empty cardboard egg cartons to start your seeds.  If you're re-using trays or containers from a previous year, wash them thoroughly and then let them soak for a few minutes in a 1:9 bleach and water solution to kill any disease organisms they may harbor.
• Seed starting mixture.  There are several options for seed starting mixture, but the important features are that it must be light and drain well.  You can buy pre-mixed seed starting medium, or make your own (one recipe here).  Keep in mind that if you use a compost-based starting mix, you won't have to worry as much about fertilizing - Dr. Earth's Root Zone Starter Mix has seaweed fertilizer and beneficial bacteria mixed right in. If you prefer to use a soilless mix, we have several kinds of starter fertilizers and foods, including Bonide Plant Starter Food, Dr. Earth Root Zone Starter Fertilizer and Espoma's Bio-Tone Starter Plus.  Seedlings in a soilless, nutrient-free medium should be fed when they develop their true leaves, and once a week thereafter.
• A space that's heated but not too hot, and that has lots of natural light.  Seeds need heat to germinate (soil temperature should be around 75°-85° F), so keeping the flats or pots on top of the refrigerator or in another warm spot until they germinate can be a big help.  After they've sprouted, move them to an area with plenty of light and an air temperature between 60° and 70°F.

The Luxuries

• Heat mats.  These little gems keep the soil at an optimal temperature for seed germination and growth, and can help keep seedlings from falling victim to damping off, which is a fungal disease caused by cool, damp, overcrowded conditions.
• Supplemental lights.  Kept about 3" above the tops of your seedlings, they encourage sturdy, stocky plants.  They also eliminate the need to move your plants around to assure that all seedlings get an equal dose of sunlight.  You don't need to spend a lot of money on "grow lights" - a bank of fluorescent shop lights are perfectly adequate for most seed-starting endeavors.  
• A fan.  A gentle breeze blowing through your seedlings has multiple benefits.  First, it keeps air circulating so moisture can't build up and cause damping off.  Second, it keeps excess heat from building up.  And finally, it (along with sufficient light) can help encourage stocky, sturdy plants.

If You Have Questions

Starting your plants from seed is a fascinating and gratifying experience, but sometimes problems can crop up.  If you have questions, please give us a call at 802/442-2851.  Penny Ela is our gardening specialist at Whitman's, and many of the staff here are pretty "garden competent".  We also have a good selection of books on gardening, so whatever your gardening question, we have you covered!

Oh the Weather Outside is Frightful ... For Pets, Too! Cold Weather Dangers for Pets

A timely reminder from M. Kathleen Shaw, DVM of the VT Veterinary Medical Association:

"Temperatures are dropping, and with the colder weather, it's time to think about the dangers this presents for our pets, both indoors and outdoors only ones.  By taking a few common sense precautions, you can help reduce the cold weather dangers to your pets.

"Although some pets are conditioned to cold weather, veterinary experts agree that you should bring outdoor pets indoors if the temperature drops below 20 degrees Fahrenheit.  Puppies, kittens, and short haired pets should not be left outside for extended periods of time anytime the temperature goes below 40 degrees.  For pets with long hair, proper grooming is essential to help them maintain a layer of warming air within their coat.  Pets who are heavily matted cannot keep themselves warm.

"If your pet must stay outdoors, be sure to provide shelter for your pet:  they can suffer from frostbite and hypothermia just like we do.  A pet's outdoor house must have at least three enclosed sides, be elevated off the ground, and contain generous amounts of bedding such as straw or hay.  In colder weather, bigger is not always better.  A house just big enough for your pet will warm up faster and retain heat better than something that is too big.  Your outdoor pet will need access to fresh water that isn't frozen.  Use heated water bowls and replenish them frequently.

"Cats love to warm up underneath car hoods.  If cats have access to your car outdoors or in your garage, be sure to pound on the hood of the car prior to starting it.  Many cats are killed or grievously injured by fan belts and moving engine parts.  Another danger that cars present to pets in cold weather is antifreeze poisoning.  If you suspect your pet has consumed any antifreeze at all, call your veterinarian immediately.

"Consider keeping dogs on a leash when they go outside.  Each winter we see cases of dogs that have gone off exploring "frozen" lakes or streams and fall through the ice into the frigid water.

"Inside the house, monitor all pets around wood-burning stoves, fireplaces and space heaters.  These can cause severe burns.  Younger pets romping through the house can knock objects onto these heat sources and cause a fire, so make sure to "pet-proof" the areas around them.  Wit the colder darker months, many people like to use candles in the home.  Make sure to place them where pets (especially cats) do not have access.  The can not only tip over the candle, they can set their fur on fire leading to serious burns.

"Our pets can suffer from arthritis in cold weather, just like humans do and it is just as painful for them.  If you are unsure if your pet has arthritis, want to know ways to keep our older pets comfortable during the cold weather, or if you have questions about cold weather issues with your pets, talk to your veterinarian."

Winter Seminar Series 2015

Whitman's is pleased to bring you yet another series of enjoyable, informative seminars.  They're held every Wednesday evening from 6:30 - 8:00 pm; each presentation runs roughly 1 hour, with a Q&A session afterward.  We have some returning speakers, and some new faces as well, and they'll be covering a wide and eclectic range of subjects.

This year's schedule:

Jan. 14:  ”Saddle Fitting” with Kitt Hazelton of Panther Run Saddlery.  She’ll cover the basics of English and western saddle fit, explain how to evaluate saddle fit and offer some fitting solutions for “problem” conformations.

Jan. 21:  ”Beekeeping 101″ with Rob Greene, Vice-President of Bennington County Beekeepers Club, Ltd.  Learn the basics of backyard beekeeping and the benefits of bee products.

Jan. 28:  ”Electric Fencing” with Greg Miller of Gallagher Fencing.  Greg will cover the lesser-known uses of electric fencing, such as protecting your bees, keeping deer out of your flowers and varmints out of your vegetable garden.  Come with your questions on electric fencing!

Feb. 4:  ”Poultry 101:  Back to the Basics” with Makenzie Fitzpatrick of Blue Seal Feeds.  Ever wanted a backyard flock?  Mackenzie will cover choosing, starting and raising your birds as well as how to house, contain, feed and care for them.

Feb. 11:   ”Second Annual Equine Quiz Night” with Dr. Shannon Guy of Arlington Equine.  A fun and informative night – come test your knowledge of equine health and veterinary topics!

Feb 18:  ”Beef 101:  Back to the Basics” with Makenzie Fitzpatrick of Blue Seal Feeds.  The ABCs of feeding, raising and caring for your beef cattle.

Feb 25:  ”Finding Neutral” with Tess Meyer.  Using a combination of basic techniques, Tess will address common misconceptions that can lead to roadblocks with your equine partner, and offer simple exercises to improve communication and connection between you and your horse.

Mar. 4:  ”‘Friendly’ Gardening Solutions” with Peter Bowden of Hewitt’s Garden Center.  Want to control garden pests without harmful chemicals?  Peter will discuss non-toxic, organic, eco-and pet friendly methods to protect your gardens.

Hope to see you there!

Obedience Training for Your Dog - it's a Good Thing

"A dog is man's best friend."  I don't know many people who'd disagree with that statement.  The companionship, love, loyalty and enjoyment they bring are indeed gifts, and many people look at their dogs as members of their family.  And as with other family members, dogs need to know how to be polite and behave themselves, how to listen to whomever's in charge and how to deal with humans and other animals outside their immediate family ... and that's where obedience classes come in.

What will you and your dog learn in obedience classes?  Of course, you'll learn basic commands like "come", "sit", and "heel", but you'll also learn much, much more.  The first thing you'll learn is how to make your dog focus on you.  Obviously, you can't teach your dog to obey even the most basic of commands unless s/he's paying attention.  Getting your dog's attention - and keeping it - builds a very strong bond between the two of you, and reinforces your position as "pack leader"; it will ensure that your dog looks to your for direction rather than taking its own initiative.  This means they'll check with you for an "ok" before going to investigate that trash can or chasing that squirrel, and you can redirect their attention in a positive way.

Socialization is another thing your dog will gain in class.  This is especially important for pups - they need to understand at a young age that other dogs and people are okay, and learn how to behave around them.  Lack of socialization can make a dog suspicious or fearful of critters and people s/he doesn't know; that can make going to the vet, the groomer, the dog park or even on a walk around the neighborhood a stressful and potentially hazardous situation.

Classes are also a lot of fun.  You and your dog will have quality time together, you'll get to meet other like-minded dogs and people, and gain the satisfaction of knowing you're laying the base for your dog to become a good canine citizen.  And who knows, you might become inspired to pursue further training with your dog, like rally, agility or dock diving.  If your dog shows an aptitude, you could go for the Canine Good Citizen certification, Therapy Dog certification, or even Search and Rescue training.  The possibilities are amazing!

Here at Whitman's, David Stacco offers obedience classes every Monday and Tuesday nights (except during December).  The classes run for 9 weeks, and each class is about 45 minutes long.  Beginner classes are on Monday nights, with intermediate/advanced classes on Tuesday. The next session begins on Jan. 5, 2015, and dogs and pups over 12 weeks of age are encouraged to attend. Cost is $95 for the beginner classes (includes training collar and lead) and $85 for the intermediate/advanced classes.  Give David a call at (802) 442-2851 or email dave@whitmansfeed.com for further info.