"A dog is man's best friend." I don't know many people who'd disagree with that statement. The companionship, love, loyalty and enjoyment they bring are indeed gifts, and many people look at their dogs as members of their family. And as with other family members, dogs need to know how to be polite and behave themselves, how to listen to whomever's in charge and how to deal with humans and other animals outside their immediate family ... and that's where obedience classes come in.
What will you and your dog learn in obedience classes? Of course, you'll learn basic commands like "come", "sit", and "heel", but you'll also learn much, much more. The first thing you'll learn is how to make your dog focus on you. Obviously, you can't teach your dog to obey even the most basic of commands unless s/he's paying attention. Getting your dog's attention - and keeping it - builds a very strong bond between the two of you, and reinforces your position as "pack leader"; it will ensure that your dog looks to your for direction rather than taking its own initiative. This means they'll check with you for an "ok" before going to investigate that trash can or chasing that squirrel, and you can redirect their attention in a positive way.
Socialization is another thing your dog will gain in class. This is especially important for pups - they need to understand at a young age that other dogs and people are okay, and learn how to behave around them. Lack of socialization can make a dog suspicious or fearful of critters and people s/he doesn't know; that can make going to the vet, the groomer, the dog park or even on a walk around the neighborhood a stressful and potentially hazardous situation.
Classes are also a lot of fun. You and your dog will have quality time together, you'll get to meet other like-minded dogs and people, and gain the satisfaction of knowing you're laying the base for your dog to become a good canine citizen. And who knows, you might become inspired to pursue further training with your dog, like rally, agility or dock diving. If your dog shows an aptitude, you could go for the Canine Good Citizen certification, Therapy Dog certification, or even Search and Rescue training. The possibilities are amazing!
Here at Whitman's, David Stacco offers obedience classes every Monday and Tuesday nights (except during December). The classes run for 9 weeks, and each class is about 45 minutes long. Beginner classes are on Monday nights, with intermediate/advanced classes on Tuesday. The next session begins on Jan. 5, 2015, and dogs and pups over 12 weeks of age are encouraged to attend. Cost is $95 for the beginner classes (includes training collar and lead) and $85 for the intermediate/advanced classes. Give David a call at (802) 442-2851 or email dave@whitmansfeed.com for further info.
Wednesday, December 10, 2014
Friday, October 24, 2014
Halloween Can be Spooky for Pets
A timely post from the VT Veterinary Medical Assn. by M. Kathleen Shaw, DVM:
"Many people like to have fun during the Halloween festivities, but our pets can truly be frightened by all of the noise and costumes. Halloween is a holiday with many dagners for our dogs and cats.
Dressing up is fun for humans, but may not be fun for our pets. If your pet tolerates a costume, keep in mind your pet must be comfortable at all times. Avoid any costumes that use rubber banks or anything that might constrict circulation or breathing. Likewise, avoid costumes with toxic paints, dyes, or that are deible.
"Costumes on people can be equally scary to pets. Masks, large hats, and other costume accessories can confuse pets and may even trigger territorial instincts. It is not unusual for bets to act protective and fearful of people in costumer, even if they are normally very social with that person. Remember, you are responsible for controlling your pet and insuring that he doesn't bite any guests.
"Constant visitors to the door along with spooky sights and sounds may cause pets to escape and become injured in a variety of ways. Consider letting your dog spend Halloween inside with special treats, safe and secure. Even in a fenced yard, Halloween is not a good night for a dog to be outside. This is doubly true for cats: they may try to bolt out the door and even if they are allowed outside, they are more at risk for being hit by cars due to the high traffic from trick or treaters. Black cats, especially, are at a higher risk from human cruelty on Halloween. Considerkeeping your cats in an interior room where they are unable to bolt out the door5.
Some Halloween decorations an be unsafe for your pets. Fake cobwebs or anything resembling string can be tempting to cats, leading to an intestinal obstruction. Candles, even inside pumpkins, can be easily knocked over, burning your pet or even lighting them (it has happened before) or your house on fire!
"Keep pets away from all Halloween candy. Most people know that chocolate can be toxic to pets, even in small amounts. However lollipop sticks and foil wrappers can cause blockages in the intestinal tract. Candy sweetened with xylitol can cause a life threatening drop in blood sugar if ingested by a pet. Some pets can get an upset stomach just from eating a piece of candy, since it isn't a part of their regular diet.
"These simple responsible precautions will help humans and pets like have a safe holiday. For more information on how to make Halloween less stressful to your pet, contact your veterinarian."
"Many people like to have fun during the Halloween festivities, but our pets can truly be frightened by all of the noise and costumes. Halloween is a holiday with many dagners for our dogs and cats.
Dressing up is fun for humans, but may not be fun for our pets. If your pet tolerates a costume, keep in mind your pet must be comfortable at all times. Avoid any costumes that use rubber banks or anything that might constrict circulation or breathing. Likewise, avoid costumes with toxic paints, dyes, or that are deible.
"Costumes on people can be equally scary to pets. Masks, large hats, and other costume accessories can confuse pets and may even trigger territorial instincts. It is not unusual for bets to act protective and fearful of people in costumer, even if they are normally very social with that person. Remember, you are responsible for controlling your pet and insuring that he doesn't bite any guests.
"Constant visitors to the door along with spooky sights and sounds may cause pets to escape and become injured in a variety of ways. Consider letting your dog spend Halloween inside with special treats, safe and secure. Even in a fenced yard, Halloween is not a good night for a dog to be outside. This is doubly true for cats: they may try to bolt out the door and even if they are allowed outside, they are more at risk for being hit by cars due to the high traffic from trick or treaters. Black cats, especially, are at a higher risk from human cruelty on Halloween. Considerkeeping your cats in an interior room where they are unable to bolt out the door5.
Some Halloween decorations an be unsafe for your pets. Fake cobwebs or anything resembling string can be tempting to cats, leading to an intestinal obstruction. Candles, even inside pumpkins, can be easily knocked over, burning your pet or even lighting them (it has happened before) or your house on fire!
"Keep pets away from all Halloween candy. Most people know that chocolate can be toxic to pets, even in small amounts. However lollipop sticks and foil wrappers can cause blockages in the intestinal tract. Candy sweetened with xylitol can cause a life threatening drop in blood sugar if ingested by a pet. Some pets can get an upset stomach just from eating a piece of candy, since it isn't a part of their regular diet.
"These simple responsible precautions will help humans and pets like have a safe holiday. For more information on how to make Halloween less stressful to your pet, contact your veterinarian."
Tuesday, October 21, 2014
Slow Hay Feeders - the Benefits
Horses are designed to graze. "Little and often" is the ideal situation. In a perfect world, our horses would have access to good pasture 24/7 so they can eat the way they're designed to ... but we don't live in a perfect world.
Some horses live primarily in stalls with limited (or no) access to a pasture where they can graze. They're fed 2 or 3 times a day, and - especially with horses in heavy training or competition - their diet is often high in concentrates. Other horses, due to obesity or a metabolic issue, have to be kept on dry lots and their food intake restricted. But in both cases, the food is usually consumed quickly, and then the horse has to wait until the next feeding, which is often hours away.
Slow hay feeders can be a big help for horses who don't (or can't) have access to unlimited grazing. They're marketed under many different names (NibbleNet, Hay Pillow, Cinch Net and Greedy Feeder are just a few), but their basic design and effect are the same: they have smaller holes than traditional hay nets, so horses have to nibble the hay out a little at a time. This slows down consumption so it's more like grazing - "little and often".
There are several benefits to using slow hay feeders:
Some horses live primarily in stalls with limited (or no) access to a pasture where they can graze. They're fed 2 or 3 times a day, and - especially with horses in heavy training or competition - their diet is often high in concentrates. Other horses, due to obesity or a metabolic issue, have to be kept on dry lots and their food intake restricted. But in both cases, the food is usually consumed quickly, and then the horse has to wait until the next feeding, which is often hours away.
Slow hay feeders can be a big help for horses who don't (or can't) have access to unlimited grazing. They're marketed under many different names (NibbleNet, Hay Pillow, Cinch Net and Greedy Feeder are just a few), but their basic design and effect are the same: they have smaller holes than traditional hay nets, so horses have to nibble the hay out a little at a time. This slows down consumption so it's more like grazing - "little and often".
There are several benefits to using slow hay feeders:
- Constant access to high-fiber forage (hay) will make sure there's always food and saliva in the stomach, which buffers stomach acid and helps maintain a normal pH. This may be a help in preventing the development of gastric ulcers.
- It will take longer for your horse to consume his hay, and that will keep him occupied. Boredom is a real issue in stalled / confined horses, so keeping them entertained by making their feed last longer can help stave off vices like stall walking, cribbing and weaving.
- Studies in the UK have shown a correlation between boredom-related vices and an increased risk of recurrent colic, so keeping your horse occupied with a slow feeder may help reduce the risk of colic as well.
- There's a lot less waste. If you horse is the type who likes to nose through the hay to get to the choice bits first, you know that they often scatter, trample and ultimately waste a good deal of it in the process. They can't indulge in that behavior when you use a slow feeder, so there's less waste of hay - and money!
A COUPLE HELPFUL HINTS
Head-Down Feeding
"I'd love to use a slow-feed hay net, but I want my horse to eat with her head down. If I put the net on the ground, she could get it snagged in her shoe, or catch her leg in it." That's a valid safety concern, and there are solutions. One is to buy a "box" slow feeder (www.grazingbox.com is one example) but the durable, well-made ones are often quite expensive, and shipping costs often rival the purchase price. Here's a more budget-friendly, DIY solution: get a tub or small stock tank, or build a wooden box manger that's large enough to hold your hay net and tall enough so your horse can't step into it. Install 4 sturdy eye screws in the bottom (with a washer and nut on the outside if you're using a tub or tank) and get 4 equally sturdy double-ended snaps that are large enough to clip to the eye screw. Clip one end of the snap to the eye screw, put your full hay net in and clip the free end to it. Presto - a safe ground-level slow feeder! Just be sure that your box/tub/tank is either secured to an immovable object, or heavy enough to stay put while your horse pulls hay from the net.
Save Stuffing for the Turkey
Don't overfill your nets or bags. If you want to make sure your horse has constant access to hay, it's better to use a couple large-capacity feeders. Jamming the net mega-full can make it hard for your horse to pull the hay out, and that may frustrate her. Some horses will simply give up and go without eating, while others will yank so hard they may pull the feeder down. This can be a real safety hazard, as we discussed above, and it's a pain to have to keep replacing your hay net!
Stop by the tack shop's page and see what we have for slow-feed hay nets!
Tuesday, October 14, 2014
Ride Safely During Hunting Season
Here in Vermont, 2014's big game hunting season started on Sept. 1 and runs, for one game animal or another, until Dec 14. Many horse people like to trail ride through the woods at this time of year, enjoying our glorious foliage, the cooler temperatures and a reduced population of bugs ... but many are also concerned about sharing the woods with hunters carrying (depending on the season) bows, rifles or muzzle loaders. Caution should be exercised, but with proper preparation and equipment, hunters and trail riders can share the woods safely.
RULE 1: BE AWARE. It's a good idea to know which season is currently running so you can know what you're likely to find out there. During deer rifle season, for example, you're probably going to see hunters wearing blaze orange. Turkey hunters, on the other hand, tend to favor more camouflage, so they'll be harder to spot. Many deer hunters, whether using rifles or bows, hunt from tree stands, so remember to look up, too - lots of hunters have stories about hikers and rider who pass under their tree stands, never realizing there was a hunter overhead! You can find a schedule of Vermont's big game seasons at the VT Fish and Wildlife website.
RULE 2: BE HEARD. You don't have to ride through the woods yelling as loudly as you can, but noise can make a hunter aware of you before you're visible. Carrying on a conversation with your riding partner at a level that allows you to hear each other over the creak of tack, the crunch of leaves and the thud of hoofbeats will be loud enough to warn hunters of your presence. Sing a song, recite poetry, or talk to your horse. You can also hang a couple small cow bells from your horse's tack - the high-pitched jangle will be clearly audible and carry well.
RULE 3: BE VISIBLE. Blaze orange is commonly worn by hunters, so they're more likely to be "on alert" for that color than any other. We have blaze orange trail sheets (similar to a quarter sheet), helmet covers and trail bags from Mac Mountain Tack Repair that offer a high degree of visibility. They're washable, lightweight and breathable (the helmet cover is made of a stretch lycra, and the "horse gear" is made from a vinyl covered poly mesh), Mac Mountain also makes the Protectavest; it's a blaze orange vest that covers your horse's shoulders and chest and makes your horse very visible while out in the pasture (and we have those as well). You can also braid ribbons of blaze orange surveying tape into your horse's mane and tail, or hang streamers of it from your saddle and bridle.
High-visibility yellow is another "safe" color to wear during hunting season. We have leg and tail bands for the horse, kits for your bridle and halter, and helmet bands and vests for the rider. This gear is also reflective, which makes it a good choice for those who like to ride in the early morning or later in the evening, or if you ride in areas with vehicle traffic.
Finally, consider a flashing light. This will make hunters aware of you before sound or blaze orange will, especially in low-light conditions. We have compact, light-weight flashers with 5 LED bulbs that are super-bright, water resistant and run on two AA batteries. They can be attached to your helmet, your arm, your boot or half-chap, your tack or your horse's tail.
(NOTE: If all of this sounds like overkill, remember that "less is more" is NOT a rule to follow during hunting season. So what if you and your horse are a jingling, LED-flashing, reflective mass of blaze orange and high-visibility yellow? During hunting season, that's the look that will make sure you're noticed and safe!)
RULE 4: BE PRUDENT. A little caution and forethought can go a long way toward staying safe.
RULE 1: BE AWARE. It's a good idea to know which season is currently running so you can know what you're likely to find out there. During deer rifle season, for example, you're probably going to see hunters wearing blaze orange. Turkey hunters, on the other hand, tend to favor more camouflage, so they'll be harder to spot. Many deer hunters, whether using rifles or bows, hunt from tree stands, so remember to look up, too - lots of hunters have stories about hikers and rider who pass under their tree stands, never realizing there was a hunter overhead! You can find a schedule of Vermont's big game seasons at the VT Fish and Wildlife website.
RULE 2: BE HEARD. You don't have to ride through the woods yelling as loudly as you can, but noise can make a hunter aware of you before you're visible. Carrying on a conversation with your riding partner at a level that allows you to hear each other over the creak of tack, the crunch of leaves and the thud of hoofbeats will be loud enough to warn hunters of your presence. Sing a song, recite poetry, or talk to your horse. You can also hang a couple small cow bells from your horse's tack - the high-pitched jangle will be clearly audible and carry well.
RULE 3: BE VISIBLE. Blaze orange is commonly worn by hunters, so they're more likely to be "on alert" for that color than any other. We have blaze orange trail sheets (similar to a quarter sheet), helmet covers and trail bags from Mac Mountain Tack Repair that offer a high degree of visibility. They're washable, lightweight and breathable (the helmet cover is made of a stretch lycra, and the "horse gear" is made from a vinyl covered poly mesh), Mac Mountain also makes the Protectavest; it's a blaze orange vest that covers your horse's shoulders and chest and makes your horse very visible while out in the pasture (and we have those as well). You can also braid ribbons of blaze orange surveying tape into your horse's mane and tail, or hang streamers of it from your saddle and bridle.
High-visibility yellow is another "safe" color to wear during hunting season. We have leg and tail bands for the horse, kits for your bridle and halter, and helmet bands and vests for the rider. This gear is also reflective, which makes it a good choice for those who like to ride in the early morning or later in the evening, or if you ride in areas with vehicle traffic.
Finally, consider a flashing light. This will make hunters aware of you before sound or blaze orange will, especially in low-light conditions. We have compact, light-weight flashers with 5 LED bulbs that are super-bright, water resistant and run on two AA batteries. They can be attached to your helmet, your arm, your boot or half-chap, your tack or your horse's tail.
(NOTE: If all of this sounds like overkill, remember that "less is more" is NOT a rule to follow during hunting season. So what if you and your horse are a jingling, LED-flashing, reflective mass of blaze orange and high-visibility yellow? During hunting season, that's the look that will make sure you're noticed and safe!)
RULE 4: BE PRUDENT. A little caution and forethought can go a long way toward staying safe.
- If you know an area is a favored hunting spot, it might be best to avoid it at this time of year.
- Whenever possible, ride on or near "posted" land, and be sure to keep to well-marked, open trails and fields - this is NOT a time of year to go bushwhacking!
- If the trails in your area aren't well cleared with good visibility, consider spending this time brushing up on your ring work.
- You may also choose to trail ride only during the week, when hunters aren't as likely to be out.
- When you encounter a hunter, ask if s/he has seen any other hunters in the area.
- If you see hunters heading in the direction you're going to ride, remember that you can turn around and ride elsewhere.
- Remember that, during rifle and muzzleloader season, you may be hearing gunshots, and your horse may spook as a result. If your horse is extremely sensitive to loud noises, it might be best to stick to the arena during those seasons.
RULE 5: BE RESPECTFUL. If you see a hunter, please don't start yelling at the top of your lungs. You may startle the hunter or scare away the game s/he's been patiently hunting. Treat them the way you'd like to be treated, and chances are very good that they'll return the favor.
Remember that "no trespassing" signs apply to everyone - including you, unless you have permission from the land owner to ride across the property! Of course, if you see someone disregarding a "posted" or "no trespassing" sign, the land owner would appreciate hearing about it. It may be someone who has permission to hunt there ... or it may not; either way, the land owner should be notified.
Here's hoping that everyone - hunter and horseback rider - has a happy and safe season!
Tuesday, September 2, 2014
Electric Fencing - the Basics
Electric fencing is probably one of the most popular types of fencing on the market today. It can be used on its own or in conjunction with another type of fencing (like wood, wire or PVC/rubber); it can keep your critters contained, or it can keep other critters out. It's flexible, adaptable and - especially when compared to other types of fencing - quite economical. So what do you have to know in order to set up an effective electric fence? Here are the basics from Todd Saunders, our electric fence guru.
THE BASIC COMPONENTS (WHAT YOU'LL NEED)
We carry a wide variety of Gallagher fencers, fencing, components and accessories here at Whitman's, and we can guide you through installing and maintaining your electric fence. Here's a list of the basic things you'll need to get started:
HOW LARGE?
Now that you have a list of equipment, you need to figure out how much area you'll be fencing, and how many strands of wire/tape/braid you plan to install. As an example, let's say that you need to fence a rectangular 20'x40' area.
Let's see ... 20 + 20 + 40 + 40 = 120. So you need a fencer that can electrify 120 linear feet ... right? That's right ... if you're only running one strand of fence. If you need 2 strands, you'll have 240' of fencing to electrify; for three strands, it will be 360' ... and so on. So you need to choose a fencer that's strong enough to electrify the total length of all the strands of fence you'll be running - not just the linear feet of the perimeter.
HOW MUCH POWER (LOOKING TO THE FUTURE)
It's usually recommended to get the most powerful fencer you can afford. Look for a fencer that's rated a minimum of 1 joule; if you can afford one with a higher rating, get it. Remember that the joule rating tells you how consistently and powerfully the "jolt" is being delivered, not how many volts the charger is generating. You may have a fencer that's strong enough to to energize 50 miles of fencing and contain an elephant (yes, there are chargers that claim they're suitable for that), but unless that charge is running consistently and strongly through your fencing, it won't do much to contain your animals.
A powerful fencer will not only do a great job at energizing your current fence, it will also give you a lot more flexibility. At some point in the future, you may decide your 20'x40' area is no longer adequate for your needs, or you may decide to increase one strand of fencing to 5 strands. If you have a 0.2 joule fencer, your ability to expand may be more limited than you'd like, and a new fencer may be the only option. So start with the most fencer you can afford; it won't hurt to have a big fencer energizing a small area, and down the road, you may be thankful for that extra power.
TYPES OF FENCING
The type of electric fencing you'll need will depend on what you're trying to accomplish. If you just want a something electric to keep your horses from leaning on your wooden fence, running a single strand of galvanized wire on the inside of the fence along the top rail will work beautifully. However, if electric fence is going to be your only method of containment, galvanized wire isn't the best answer, as it's very hard for your livestock to see and you run the risk of them (or some wild creature) breaking the fence or getting tangled in it. High-visibility poly braid, rope or tape would be better solutions; they do the same job as the galvanized wire, with the addition of being easier for your animals to see. You can get the standard type or "turbo" fencing.; turbo fencing has higher conductivity than standard fencing, so the electricity is carried more effectively and provides more jolt.
TYPES OF CHARGERS
Chargers come in three different types: plug in 110 volt fencers, battery-powered fencers and solar fencers. Plug-ins are probably the most reliable, offer the most consistent performance, and - since you don't have to keep supplying them with batteries - the most affordable. Even the biggest, most powerful fencers won't make much of an increase in your electric bill. However, if you live in an area with frequent power outages, having a backup system would be advisable. You can install either a battery or solar fencer as back up, or plug your electric fencer into a generator.
Battery powered fencers are generally less expensive to purchase than plug-in or solar units and are fairly reliable, as long as you're vigilant about the shape the battery's in. As the battery disperses its energy, the jolt it supplies becomes weaker and weaker, so you can't let it "run dry". In reality you need to have 2 batteries for that type of fencer: one in the fencer, and one - fully charged - to replace the first when it's getting low and while it's being recharged. And of course, batteries will eventually need to be replaced when they no longer hold a charge, so that adds to the overall cost.
Solar fencers are the most expensive to purchase, and - at least in our neck of the woods - the least reliable. While they require only 8 hrs. of light a day (and direct sunlight isn't required), we find that their performance is somewhat inconsistent, especially in overcast weather. They tend to work best in areas with strong, continuous sunlight.
MAINTAINING YOUR FENCING
Electric fencing is pretty low-maintenance - it doesn't rot or rust, and animals won't chew it or lean on it. Just make sure to keep it clear of weeds, grass or fallen branches; be sure the insulators are whole and keeping the wire/tape off the posts (metal posts will short out a fence if the wire touches it) and that the tape, rope or braid isn't frayed.
Probably your biggest maintenance chore will be checking the voltage on a regular basis. We carry reliable, easy-to-use digital voltmeters that will tell you immediately if your fencer is performing the way it should. Check your voltage as far from the fencer as possible when you first install your fencing so you have a good idea of your baseline number; it should be at least 4000 volts. A lower number may indicate that your fencer is faulty, or that it isn't powerful enough to charge your entire fence line. Keep a consistent eye on your voltage; it's common for your reading to be lower in the morning (moisture on the fence can cause temporary current leakage), but if you notice a significant drop - 1500 to 2000 volts - it means you need to look for problems. It could be grass or brush on the fencing, it could be a frayed wire, or it could be a malfunctioning charger. It's always best to be proactive in these cases; most animals can sense when the current in the fence is weak, and many will take advantage of it immediately!
THE BASIC COMPONENTS (WHAT YOU'LL NEED)
We carry a wide variety of Gallagher fencers, fencing, components and accessories here at Whitman's, and we can guide you through installing and maintaining your electric fence. Here's a list of the basic things you'll need to get started:
- The fencer (aka charger or energizer). This can be a plug-in model, or it can be solar or battery powered. This is the energy source that gets the electricity to the fencing. Modern fencers are low-impedance, which means they deliver a regular pulse of energy rather than a constant flow, as the old "weed chopper" fencers did. Fencers are rated in miles they can energize, volts, amps and/or joules. In general, the higher the number, the more powerful the fencer. The only exception to this is the joule rating - that simply indicates the power and consistency with which the voltage is pumped through the fencing.
- Fencing. This can be mesh, braid, wire or tape; this is the part that carries the voltage and creates the physical boundary.
- Insulators. These are the interface between the fence post and the wire; they keep the fencing from coming into contact with the post, "grounding out" and losing its zap. You can get plastic or ceramic insulators designed for the type of posts you're using (see below). Plastic insulators are inexpensive and easy to install (if you miss the nail and hammer the plastic insulator while installing it, it won't ruin the insulator), but like any plastic, they'll eventually degrade in sunlight. Ceramic insulators are more expensive and fussier to install - they may break if you miss the nail and hit the insulator instead - but they'll probably still be working long after the post they're attached to has rotted or rusted out.
- Grounding system. You'll need at least 2 or 3 ground poles (usually about 6' long and made of galvanized metal), pounded into the ground roughly 10 feet apart, connected to the grounding terminal of the fencer. Keep in mind that the more powerful the fencer, the more grounding poles it will need;
- Insulated electric fence wire. This will connect your ground poles to your fencer, and your fencer to your fencing.
- Fence posts. You can use fiberglass, metal or wood posts, depending on your needs (and budget). For a temporary fence, fiberglass "step in" posts are a good option, since they're inexpensive and easy to install and remove. For permanent fences, metal or wood posts are a stronger and more durable option; wood is less expensive than metal, but metal posts will probably last longer than wood (depending on the climate in which they're used).
HOW LARGE?
Now that you have a list of equipment, you need to figure out how much area you'll be fencing, and how many strands of wire/tape/braid you plan to install. As an example, let's say that you need to fence a rectangular 20'x40' area.
Let's see ... 20 + 20 + 40 + 40 = 120. So you need a fencer that can electrify 120 linear feet ... right? That's right ... if you're only running one strand of fence. If you need 2 strands, you'll have 240' of fencing to electrify; for three strands, it will be 360' ... and so on. So you need to choose a fencer that's strong enough to electrify the total length of all the strands of fence you'll be running - not just the linear feet of the perimeter.
HOW MUCH POWER (LOOKING TO THE FUTURE)
It's usually recommended to get the most powerful fencer you can afford. Look for a fencer that's rated a minimum of 1 joule; if you can afford one with a higher rating, get it. Remember that the joule rating tells you how consistently and powerfully the "jolt" is being delivered, not how many volts the charger is generating. You may have a fencer that's strong enough to to energize 50 miles of fencing and contain an elephant (yes, there are chargers that claim they're suitable for that), but unless that charge is running consistently and strongly through your fencing, it won't do much to contain your animals.
A powerful fencer will not only do a great job at energizing your current fence, it will also give you a lot more flexibility. At some point in the future, you may decide your 20'x40' area is no longer adequate for your needs, or you may decide to increase one strand of fencing to 5 strands. If you have a 0.2 joule fencer, your ability to expand may be more limited than you'd like, and a new fencer may be the only option. So start with the most fencer you can afford; it won't hurt to have a big fencer energizing a small area, and down the road, you may be thankful for that extra power.
TYPES OF FENCING
The type of electric fencing you'll need will depend on what you're trying to accomplish. If you just want a something electric to keep your horses from leaning on your wooden fence, running a single strand of galvanized wire on the inside of the fence along the top rail will work beautifully. However, if electric fence is going to be your only method of containment, galvanized wire isn't the best answer, as it's very hard for your livestock to see and you run the risk of them (or some wild creature) breaking the fence or getting tangled in it. High-visibility poly braid, rope or tape would be better solutions; they do the same job as the galvanized wire, with the addition of being easier for your animals to see. You can get the standard type or "turbo" fencing.; turbo fencing has higher conductivity than standard fencing, so the electricity is carried more effectively and provides more jolt.
TYPES OF CHARGERS
Chargers come in three different types: plug in 110 volt fencers, battery-powered fencers and solar fencers. Plug-ins are probably the most reliable, offer the most consistent performance, and - since you don't have to keep supplying them with batteries - the most affordable. Even the biggest, most powerful fencers won't make much of an increase in your electric bill. However, if you live in an area with frequent power outages, having a backup system would be advisable. You can install either a battery or solar fencer as back up, or plug your electric fencer into a generator.
Battery powered fencers are generally less expensive to purchase than plug-in or solar units and are fairly reliable, as long as you're vigilant about the shape the battery's in. As the battery disperses its energy, the jolt it supplies becomes weaker and weaker, so you can't let it "run dry". In reality you need to have 2 batteries for that type of fencer: one in the fencer, and one - fully charged - to replace the first when it's getting low and while it's being recharged. And of course, batteries will eventually need to be replaced when they no longer hold a charge, so that adds to the overall cost.
Solar fencers are the most expensive to purchase, and - at least in our neck of the woods - the least reliable. While they require only 8 hrs. of light a day (and direct sunlight isn't required), we find that their performance is somewhat inconsistent, especially in overcast weather. They tend to work best in areas with strong, continuous sunlight.
MAINTAINING YOUR FENCING
Electric fencing is pretty low-maintenance - it doesn't rot or rust, and animals won't chew it or lean on it. Just make sure to keep it clear of weeds, grass or fallen branches; be sure the insulators are whole and keeping the wire/tape off the posts (metal posts will short out a fence if the wire touches it) and that the tape, rope or braid isn't frayed.
Probably your biggest maintenance chore will be checking the voltage on a regular basis. We carry reliable, easy-to-use digital voltmeters that will tell you immediately if your fencer is performing the way it should. Check your voltage as far from the fencer as possible when you first install your fencing so you have a good idea of your baseline number; it should be at least 4000 volts. A lower number may indicate that your fencer is faulty, or that it isn't powerful enough to charge your entire fence line. Keep a consistent eye on your voltage; it's common for your reading to be lower in the morning (moisture on the fence can cause temporary current leakage), but if you notice a significant drop - 1500 to 2000 volts - it means you need to look for problems. It could be grass or brush on the fencing, it could be a frayed wire, or it could be a malfunctioning charger. It's always best to be proactive in these cases; most animals can sense when the current in the fence is weak, and many will take advantage of it immediately!
Thursday, August 21, 2014
Tomatoes and Late Blight
Picture this: your tenderly-nurtured tomato plants are heavily burdened with green tomatoes; some have that first delicate flush of red, and in just a short time, you'll be rolling in what many folks consider to be the pinnacle of garden excellence: a vine-ripened tomato fresh off the plant. You entertain images of roasted tomatoes, grilled tomatoes, tomato salads, tomato sauce, tomato juice ... you can practically taste them! Then you notice a greyish, white-speckled spot on one stem ... then on another ... and another. You can kiss your tomato dreams good-bye at this point: your plants are infected with late blight.
WHAT IS LATE BLIGHT?
Late blight is a disease caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans. This fungus effects potatoes as well as tomatoes, and was the cause of the Irish Potato Famine in the 1840s. It can spread like wildfire, as the pathogen can produce huge numbers of infectious spores that will travel on the wind. There's no cure for late blight - infected plants must be destroyed immediately, before more plants are effected; spore germination to symptoms takes about 7 days, so immediate action is of the utmost importance. The good news is that with proper planting, husbandry and preparation, it's preventable.
BEATING BLIGHT
There are several things you can do to help prevent blight. First, look for tomato varieties that are blight resistant. While no tomato is completely immune, breeders are working on varieties that are less susceptible to the fungus - Mountain Magic and Plum Regal are two (and more info on resistant varieties here). Planting early-maturing varieties is also a good strategy; that way, you may be able to get at least a modest harvest before late blight "season" rolls around.
The way you care for your plants is important, too. Cool, wet conditions are perfect for the development of blight, so the following guidelines will create a "blight-unfriendly" environment:
WHAT IS LATE BLIGHT?
Late blight is a disease caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans. This fungus effects potatoes as well as tomatoes, and was the cause of the Irish Potato Famine in the 1840s. It can spread like wildfire, as the pathogen can produce huge numbers of infectious spores that will travel on the wind. There's no cure for late blight - infected plants must be destroyed immediately, before more plants are effected; spore germination to symptoms takes about 7 days, so immediate action is of the utmost importance. The good news is that with proper planting, husbandry and preparation, it's preventable.
BEATING BLIGHT
There are several things you can do to help prevent blight. First, look for tomato varieties that are blight resistant. While no tomato is completely immune, breeders are working on varieties that are less susceptible to the fungus - Mountain Magic and Plum Regal are two (and more info on resistant varieties here). Planting early-maturing varieties is also a good strategy; that way, you may be able to get at least a modest harvest before late blight "season" rolls around.
The way you care for your plants is important, too. Cool, wet conditions are perfect for the development of blight, so the following guidelines will create a "blight-unfriendly" environment:
- Stake or trellis your tomato plants to maximize light and airflow around the plants.
- Be sure to allow enough space between plants. Dwarf varieties can be spaced about 12" apart, determinate/bush-type plants can be spaced about 24" apart, but sprawling, indeterminate varieties may need 36" - 48".
- Water with drip irrigation, soaker hoses or by watering the soil - NOT the plant! Water early in the day so the plant is dry when the sun goes down and temperatures drop.
- If you grow potatoes, but sure you rotate your planting and don't plant tomatoes in the same spot you grew potatoes the year before (or potatoes where your tomatoes were the previous year).
- If you missed a few potatoes during last fall's harvest and some volunteer plants show up this spring, destroy them. While it's believed that the fungus can't over-winter in the soil, it can over-winter in potatoes, so best to be safe and destroy them.
- It's also believed that the spores can't survive in dead plant material, but until the plant dies, the spores are alive and kicking - so remove and destroy diseased plants immediately. Bag them in black plastic or cover them with black plastic or tarp until they're good and dead, then throw them in the trash - do NOT compost diseased plants!
- Preventive spraying with an organic product like Actinovate (which contains Streptomyces lydicus, a beneficial bacteria) may help prevent blight. Copper fungicide should be applied when late blight is present to keep it from spreading to healthy plants. Bonide (which we carry) has great info on copper fungicides and their use on their web site.
It's also important to know late blight when you see it. There are some conditions that appear similar - early blight and septoria leaf blight are two, and drought-stresses plants can show similar symptoms as well. And please remember, if you have late blight in your garden, let your neighbors know as soon as possible - since the spores are windborne, they can travel to neighboring gardens; putting your neighbors on alert will allow them to start preventive treatment before their crops can be damaged.
Learn more about late blight and how to recognize it at USABlight.org and http://www.longislandhort.cornell.edu/vegpath/photos/lateblight_tomato.htm.
Wednesday, July 30, 2014
Caring for Your Tack
"Chances are, if it's good, it's not gonna be cheap. And chances are, if it's cheap, it's not gonna be good." - Anonymous
That statement is true about many things - and especially about leather tack. Good quality tack isn't inexpensive - it's not just a purchase, it's an investment. But here's the good news: given the proper care, tack can last for decades - literally. It's not unusual to see quality tack from the early 2000s (and even the 1990s) still in daily use and in safe-and-sound condition. And more good news: this kind of longevity doesn't require you to spend hours disassembling and reassembling and slaving away with saddle soap!
The first thing to remember is that leather is skin, and needs to be treated that way. A good rule to follow is that if you don't want to put it on your hands, you don't want to put it on your tack! Leather needs to be kept clean and hydrated, and in the neutral pH range (around 6-8 on the scale). Use products specifically designed for tack, because tanning methods vary depending on the type of leather and the product the leather will eventually become. Products meant for boots, leather clothing or car interiors aren't meant for tack!
The best way to care for your tack and ensure its longevity is to wipe it down with a damp cloth or sponge after every use. This takes less than 5 minutes for both saddle and bridle, and keeps dirt from building up. It also removes sweat, which can stiffen and stain your leather, and it gives you a chance to notice any safety issues that may crop up, so you can have the worn bit repaired or replaced before it becomes a safety hazard. If you aren't that vigilant and find that you have some dirt jockeys after a few rides, use a good, pH balanced cleaner like Effol or Belvoir - they're very effective at removing dirt, and are gentle to your leather. Plain old glycerin saddle soap or Kirk's Castile soap are fine, too - just make sure that you wipe all the the residue off your saddle, as any remaining soap film will attract dust and dirt. (The green gunk you often see around saddle nails and bridle buckles is glycerin soap residue.) Every couple of weeks (the actual schedule will depend on the weather, and how much and in what conditions your tack is used), give your tack a light coat or two of a well-balanced commercial conditioner. The key here is light. You want the conditioner to be absorbed immediately, so be careful not to over-apply; two or three light coats will be far better than one heavy coat. Remember to condition both the top and underside of the flaps and jockeys, as the underside (flesh side) will absorb conditioner more efficiently than the upper (hair) side.
Now, a word about oil. Yes, it's a necessary component in leather care, and all commercial conditioners contain oil, along with fats and waxes. And yes, too little will result in dry, brittle leather. However, too much oil can be the kiss of death for leather as well. Oil is absorbed quite readily by leather, and if too much is applied, it will penetrate deep into the collagen matrix and weaken the fibers, allowing them to stretch. If you've ever seen a piece of leather with about as much resilience as a wet dish towel, you've likely seen over-oiled leather. Leather in that state should be considered unsafe for use.
Where you store your tack is another issue that will effect its longevity. If possible, store it in a climate-controlled, well-ventilated area away from excess humidity. If you don't have access to that sort of area, you can use conditioner that contains phenol - like Leather Therapy or Belvoir - to help inhibit the mold and mildew that will invariably invade leather in hot, humid conditions. Your saddle should be stored on a rack, and should always be covered to protect it from dust and the claws of your barn cat. Don't store your sweaty, wet saddle pad or blanket on the same rack - that's a perfect environment for fungal growth - and don't drape your girth or cinch over your saddle seat unless it's dry and clean. You can store your bridle on a rack as well; you can put it in a bridle bag, or drape an old pillow case or towel to protect it and keep the dust off. Just be sure there's adequate ventilation so any moisture can evaporate - don't store leather in plastic or other non-permeable materials.
A little bit of care goes a long way toward protecting your tack, and will help make sure you get years of safe use from it.
That statement is true about many things - and especially about leather tack. Good quality tack isn't inexpensive - it's not just a purchase, it's an investment. But here's the good news: given the proper care, tack can last for decades - literally. It's not unusual to see quality tack from the early 2000s (and even the 1990s) still in daily use and in safe-and-sound condition. And more good news: this kind of longevity doesn't require you to spend hours disassembling and reassembling and slaving away with saddle soap!
The first thing to remember is that leather is skin, and needs to be treated that way. A good rule to follow is that if you don't want to put it on your hands, you don't want to put it on your tack! Leather needs to be kept clean and hydrated, and in the neutral pH range (around 6-8 on the scale). Use products specifically designed for tack, because tanning methods vary depending on the type of leather and the product the leather will eventually become. Products meant for boots, leather clothing or car interiors aren't meant for tack!
The best way to care for your tack and ensure its longevity is to wipe it down with a damp cloth or sponge after every use. This takes less than 5 minutes for both saddle and bridle, and keeps dirt from building up. It also removes sweat, which can stiffen and stain your leather, and it gives you a chance to notice any safety issues that may crop up, so you can have the worn bit repaired or replaced before it becomes a safety hazard. If you aren't that vigilant and find that you have some dirt jockeys after a few rides, use a good, pH balanced cleaner like Effol or Belvoir - they're very effective at removing dirt, and are gentle to your leather. Plain old glycerin saddle soap or Kirk's Castile soap are fine, too - just make sure that you wipe all the the residue off your saddle, as any remaining soap film will attract dust and dirt. (The green gunk you often see around saddle nails and bridle buckles is glycerin soap residue.) Every couple of weeks (the actual schedule will depend on the weather, and how much and in what conditions your tack is used), give your tack a light coat or two of a well-balanced commercial conditioner. The key here is light. You want the conditioner to be absorbed immediately, so be careful not to over-apply; two or three light coats will be far better than one heavy coat. Remember to condition both the top and underside of the flaps and jockeys, as the underside (flesh side) will absorb conditioner more efficiently than the upper (hair) side.
Now, a word about oil. Yes, it's a necessary component in leather care, and all commercial conditioners contain oil, along with fats and waxes. And yes, too little will result in dry, brittle leather. However, too much oil can be the kiss of death for leather as well. Oil is absorbed quite readily by leather, and if too much is applied, it will penetrate deep into the collagen matrix and weaken the fibers, allowing them to stretch. If you've ever seen a piece of leather with about as much resilience as a wet dish towel, you've likely seen over-oiled leather. Leather in that state should be considered unsafe for use.
Where you store your tack is another issue that will effect its longevity. If possible, store it in a climate-controlled, well-ventilated area away from excess humidity. If you don't have access to that sort of area, you can use conditioner that contains phenol - like Leather Therapy or Belvoir - to help inhibit the mold and mildew that will invariably invade leather in hot, humid conditions. Your saddle should be stored on a rack, and should always be covered to protect it from dust and the claws of your barn cat. Don't store your sweaty, wet saddle pad or blanket on the same rack - that's a perfect environment for fungal growth - and don't drape your girth or cinch over your saddle seat unless it's dry and clean. You can store your bridle on a rack as well; you can put it in a bridle bag, or drape an old pillow case or towel to protect it and keep the dust off. Just be sure there's adequate ventilation so any moisture can evaporate - don't store leather in plastic or other non-permeable materials.
A little bit of care goes a long way toward protecting your tack, and will help make sure you get years of safe use from it.
Wednesday, July 16, 2014
Saltwater Aquariums for Beginners
Saltwater aquariums - "reef tanks" - are a great hobby. They add beauty and interest to your home, and saltwater fish are some of the most colorful and fascinating in the world. Our aquarium expert, Rick Stacco, has this advice to offer to anyone interested in setting up a saltwater aquarium.
The first things you'll need are a tank, a filter, a pump, a heater, a thermometer, a hydrometer and a good UV light. You'll also need reef crystals (sea salt), marine sand or crushed coral for the bottom of the tank, and test strips to monitor ammonia and pH levels. A 20-gallon aquarium is a good size to start with. Consult with a sales associate who's knowledgeable about keeping a reef aquarium - they'll be able to help you find the right equipment. The pump cycles the water and adds air bubbles, while the filter keeps the water clean by filtering out organic matter. The thermometer lets you know your water temperature so you can adjust your heater accordingly; the best temperature for most reef tanks is 79°-82° F. The UV light enhances color and will be necessary if you want to grow coral.
You'll make your own salt water by adding reef crystals to fresh water. Use the hydrometer to measure the salinity of the water, which should be 1.022. You'll have to measure this frequently to and add water to adjust the salinity. It's usually best to add fresh water, check the salinity and add more reef crystals as needed; adding water that already has salt mixed in can result in water that's too saline, and that's not good. You'll also need to monitor ammonia levels to be sure they stay low, and pH (which should be between 8.0 and 8.4) and adjust as necessary.
It will take about 7-9 weeks for your tank to "cycle" - that is, to develop the natural bacteria that keep your tank healthy, so for that initial period, it's best to have some hardy fish who can deal with some ups and downs. Damsel fish are hardy and inexpensive, they get along well when they're young and they're beautiful as well. The rule of thumb for populating your tank is 1" of fish per gallon of water, so you could have 10 2" fish in a 20 gallon aquarium, or 20 1" fish. Just remember that your fish will grow, so take that into account; it's better to err on the side of too few fish to allow them sufficient room so they aren't crowded and territorial issues don't come up. After your tank has cycled and you have more experience in maintaining a healthy environment, you can start adding new fish, soft coral and other sea life to your tank.
The first things you'll need are a tank, a filter, a pump, a heater, a thermometer, a hydrometer and a good UV light. You'll also need reef crystals (sea salt), marine sand or crushed coral for the bottom of the tank, and test strips to monitor ammonia and pH levels. A 20-gallon aquarium is a good size to start with. Consult with a sales associate who's knowledgeable about keeping a reef aquarium - they'll be able to help you find the right equipment. The pump cycles the water and adds air bubbles, while the filter keeps the water clean by filtering out organic matter. The thermometer lets you know your water temperature so you can adjust your heater accordingly; the best temperature for most reef tanks is 79°-82° F. The UV light enhances color and will be necessary if you want to grow coral.
You'll make your own salt water by adding reef crystals to fresh water. Use the hydrometer to measure the salinity of the water, which should be 1.022. You'll have to measure this frequently to and add water to adjust the salinity. It's usually best to add fresh water, check the salinity and add more reef crystals as needed; adding water that already has salt mixed in can result in water that's too saline, and that's not good. You'll also need to monitor ammonia levels to be sure they stay low, and pH (which should be between 8.0 and 8.4) and adjust as necessary.
It will take about 7-9 weeks for your tank to "cycle" - that is, to develop the natural bacteria that keep your tank healthy, so for that initial period, it's best to have some hardy fish who can deal with some ups and downs. Damsel fish are hardy and inexpensive, they get along well when they're young and they're beautiful as well. The rule of thumb for populating your tank is 1" of fish per gallon of water, so you could have 10 2" fish in a 20 gallon aquarium, or 20 1" fish. Just remember that your fish will grow, so take that into account; it's better to err on the side of too few fish to allow them sufficient room so they aren't crowded and territorial issues don't come up. After your tank has cycled and you have more experience in maintaining a healthy environment, you can start adding new fish, soft coral and other sea life to your tank.
Monday, July 7, 2014
Garden Know-How by Sandy Edwards
Don't like to weed your garden? Next time you plant, think about sowing your leafy crops, radishes, beet green, carrots etc. in small blocks instead of rows. They'll grow in thickly and, like the water plants in your pond, choke out the weeds by depriving them of nutrients and sunlight. For the root crops, start thinning as necessary, but keep them thicker than they'd be in a standard row. You can do the same with your corn - small blocks with short, narrow rows. This discourages weeds and promotes better pollination, giving you a better crop with less work.
Speaking of corn, try the relatively new variety - Applause - and enhanced Bodacious variety. It's extra-sweet and stays longer on the plant before the sugars start turning to starch. And for the BEST corn eating, here's a tip from my Iowa grandmother: have your pot of lightly salted and sugared water boiling, then pick and shuck your corn. NO starch - ALL SUGAR!
Speaking of corn, try the relatively new variety - Applause - and enhanced Bodacious variety. It's extra-sweet and stays longer on the plant before the sugars start turning to starch. And for the BEST corn eating, here's a tip from my Iowa grandmother: have your pot of lightly salted and sugared water boiling, then pick and shuck your corn. NO starch - ALL SUGAR!
Friday, June 27, 2014
Pets and July Fourth
Most humans love celebrating the Fourth of July. But our four-legged family? Sometimes, not so much. Please read on for some tips on keeping your critters safe and happy. Have a great Fourth!
From the VT Veterinary Medical Association
M. Kathleen Shaw, DVM
Everyone loves the fun and festivities of the July Fourth celebrations. However, our pets do not have the appreciation of these patriotic displays. Dogs, cats, horses and even livestock can react to fireworks in ways that could potentially cause injury and even death.
During upcoming celebrations, never leave pets alone outdoors, even if tethered or in a fenced in yard. It's not uncommon for dogs to escape or injure themselves in a frenzied attempt to escape. In fact, many animals shelters report increases of stray intakes after the Fourth of July holiday due to the number of pets running away to avoid noise and excitement.
If you are planning on attending a fireworks celebration, keep pets at home. A good idea is to keep small pets indoors, in an interior room without windows. Turn on the TV or radio to provide distraction. Keep horses in their stalls if possible and consider talking with your veterinarian prescribing mild sedatives during this time.
If you MUST be outside with your pet during a fireworks display, make sure your pet is on a leash or in a carrier. Be sure that your pet has current ID tags and/or a microchip so that you and your pet can be easily reunited in case he/she runs off. Some pets may become fearfully aggressive due to the loud noises, so protect pets from kids who may not realize the consequences of waving sparklers or setting off home fireworks.
If your pet is fearful during fireworks, never punish this behavior but don't reinforce it, either, by trying to soothe the pet by saying things like "It's ok". Paying attention to your pet may positively reinforce the fearful behavior. If you have concerns about your animals during July Fourth celebrations, talk with your veterinarian about the best ways to keep your pets safe.
From the VT Veterinary Medical Association
M. Kathleen Shaw, DVM
Everyone loves the fun and festivities of the July Fourth celebrations. However, our pets do not have the appreciation of these patriotic displays. Dogs, cats, horses and even livestock can react to fireworks in ways that could potentially cause injury and even death.
During upcoming celebrations, never leave pets alone outdoors, even if tethered or in a fenced in yard. It's not uncommon for dogs to escape or injure themselves in a frenzied attempt to escape. In fact, many animals shelters report increases of stray intakes after the Fourth of July holiday due to the number of pets running away to avoid noise and excitement.
If you are planning on attending a fireworks celebration, keep pets at home. A good idea is to keep small pets indoors, in an interior room without windows. Turn on the TV or radio to provide distraction. Keep horses in their stalls if possible and consider talking with your veterinarian prescribing mild sedatives during this time.
If you MUST be outside with your pet during a fireworks display, make sure your pet is on a leash or in a carrier. Be sure that your pet has current ID tags and/or a microchip so that you and your pet can be easily reunited in case he/she runs off. Some pets may become fearfully aggressive due to the loud noises, so protect pets from kids who may not realize the consequences of waving sparklers or setting off home fireworks.
If your pet is fearful during fireworks, never punish this behavior but don't reinforce it, either, by trying to soothe the pet by saying things like "It's ok". Paying attention to your pet may positively reinforce the fearful behavior. If you have concerns about your animals during July Fourth celebrations, talk with your veterinarian about the best ways to keep your pets safe.
Monday, June 23, 2014
Trail Riding - Keeping it Safe
Summer trail rides are one thing we long for in the depths of the New England winters. Trail riding is a ton of fun, and knowing the basics of trail safety can keep a ride on the safe and fun side.
First, let someone know where you're going and how long you expect to be gone. This is especially vital if you're going out on your own. Hang a dry-erase board in your barn and leave the info there - for example "Amy out on the Water Wheel trail at 3 pm, back by 4:30". That way, your route is readily available to your family and/or fellow boarders, or (let's hope it never comes to this) rescue personnel and EMTs. And please don't deviate from your planned route - for obvious reasons!
Second, ALWAYS wear your helmet. Even if it's hot as blue blazes, even if you're just going to ride across the field to the neighbor's or down the drive to pick up the mail, make sure your helmet is on.
It's also handy to have "necessary bags" for you and your horse. Make sure that your bag is attached to you; there's nothing worse than parting company with your horse seeing your gear and your horse disappearing down the trial.
If you're just going out for a short hack on a familiar trail, your cell phone may be all you need. However, if you're going long-distance or into unfamiliar territory, you'll need to plan more extensively. Dress in layers and prepare for weather changes, and your necessary bag should contain the following:
There's some equipment that comes in handy for your horse, too. A halter-bridle combination can be useful if you want to stop for lunch and allow your horse to graze - yes, you can carry a halter and lead as well, but the combination bridle leaves you with less to carry. Be sure that your name and phone number are written on or attached to your bridle, halter and saddle in case you two get separated. One woman I know braids a tag with her name, phone number and email into her horse's mane when she goes on long rides; it's more likely to stay with the horse than the tack. If you're going to have to venture into areas with traffic, reflective gear is a good idea - helmet covers, leg and tail bands, and reflective sleeves that fit on your tack make you visible to motorists. And obviously, your horse should be shod appropriately and in good enough physical condition to complete the ride without undue stress.
As for your horse's necessary bag, it can be a cantle of pommel bag, or it can clip to a saddle dee. It should contain the following:
First, let someone know where you're going and how long you expect to be gone. This is especially vital if you're going out on your own. Hang a dry-erase board in your barn and leave the info there - for example "Amy out on the Water Wheel trail at 3 pm, back by 4:30". That way, your route is readily available to your family and/or fellow boarders, or (let's hope it never comes to this) rescue personnel and EMTs. And please don't deviate from your planned route - for obvious reasons!
Second, ALWAYS wear your helmet. Even if it's hot as blue blazes, even if you're just going to ride across the field to the neighbor's or down the drive to pick up the mail, make sure your helmet is on.
It's also handy to have "necessary bags" for you and your horse. Make sure that your bag is attached to you; there's nothing worse than parting company with your horse seeing your gear and your horse disappearing down the trial.
If you're just going out for a short hack on a familiar trail, your cell phone may be all you need. However, if you're going long-distance or into unfamiliar territory, you'll need to plan more extensively. Dress in layers and prepare for weather changes, and your necessary bag should contain the following:
- A quart of water. If you're going into the back country, a water filtration system would be a good item to carry.
- Your cell phone.
- GPS or map, if your cell doesn't have those features (or if you'll be riding beyond cell service).
- A watch.
- Knife or (even better) a multi-tool.
- A small first-aid kit with electrolytes, bandanges, pain killers and antiseptic ointment.
- Bug spray.
- Sun screen.
- Any medications or allergy remedies you may need, and a list of those meds and medical conditions.
- A whistle.
- Environmentally-friendly toilet paper.
- A shatterproof mirror.
- A length of sturdy string or twine.
- Plastic poncho.
- Emergency reflective blanket.
- Cigarette lighter or waterproof matches.
- Food concentrates / energy bars.
There's some equipment that comes in handy for your horse, too. A halter-bridle combination can be useful if you want to stop for lunch and allow your horse to graze - yes, you can carry a halter and lead as well, but the combination bridle leaves you with less to carry. Be sure that your name and phone number are written on or attached to your bridle, halter and saddle in case you two get separated. One woman I know braids a tag with her name, phone number and email into her horse's mane when she goes on long rides; it's more likely to stay with the horse than the tack. If you're going to have to venture into areas with traffic, reflective gear is a good idea - helmet covers, leg and tail bands, and reflective sleeves that fit on your tack make you visible to motorists. And obviously, your horse should be shod appropriately and in good enough physical condition to complete the ride without undue stress.
As for your horse's necessary bag, it can be a cantle of pommel bag, or it can clip to a saddle dee. It should contain the following:
- Compact first aid kit with bandages and antiseptic ointment (check with your veterinarian if you want a more comprehensive kit, or if your horse has special physical requirements).
- Hoof pick.
- Easy Boot or other shoe replacement.
- If you're going to be bushwhacking or clearing trails, a folding camp saw is a good item to have.
- Duct tape.
- Collapsible water bucket.
- Strong string or twine.
- Electrolytes.
- Snacks / treats.
Monday, June 16, 2014
"Pond"-ering
Now that summer is nigh, people are thinking about their ponds. Here at Whitman's, we have a well-stocked pond department, and a knowledgeable staff to help you out. Here are some words of wisdom from Sandy Edwards on a common pond problem: algae.
If you haven't treated your pond for algae, try adding barley straw extract or pellets now. Blue dye does a fantastic job with algae also. Or ... why not be proactive and use barley straw or blue dye in early spring, as soon as you have a hole in the ice? You can also add barley straw in the fall and let it "work" all winter.
How do these products work? When barley straw starts to degrade, it gives off a toxin that kills the algae but is safe for your fish and plants - people and animals, too. The blue dye blocks the sunlight that the algae requires for survival. This is also non-toxic to humans, pond plants and animals.
Pond fish are another way to control algae. Koi love to eat it; Pond Comets and other goldfish consume algae, and will cheerfully eat mosquito larvae as well. They also add beauty and character to a pond. Just remember that they can get pretty big, and if you have a pond that freezes solid in winter, they'll need alternative living quarters. Ours spend the winter upstairs in the tack shop, in a 150 gallon livestock water tank.
The very best way to control algae naturally is with plants. By covering 75% of the pond surface with floating plants like water lillies, you'll create a physical barrier to block the sunlight the algae needs and add beauty to your pond. Water hyacinths love sunny spots, and water lettuce likes shady areas; both multiply rapidly. You can keep them in check by stretching a piece of fishing like across to define their boundaries. If you have any questions on pond maintenance, you can give me a call at 802-442-2851, or 800-521-2705.
If you haven't treated your pond for algae, try adding barley straw extract or pellets now. Blue dye does a fantastic job with algae also. Or ... why not be proactive and use barley straw or blue dye in early spring, as soon as you have a hole in the ice? You can also add barley straw in the fall and let it "work" all winter.
How do these products work? When barley straw starts to degrade, it gives off a toxin that kills the algae but is safe for your fish and plants - people and animals, too. The blue dye blocks the sunlight that the algae requires for survival. This is also non-toxic to humans, pond plants and animals.
Pond fish are another way to control algae. Koi love to eat it; Pond Comets and other goldfish consume algae, and will cheerfully eat mosquito larvae as well. They also add beauty and character to a pond. Just remember that they can get pretty big, and if you have a pond that freezes solid in winter, they'll need alternative living quarters. Ours spend the winter upstairs in the tack shop, in a 150 gallon livestock water tank.
The very best way to control algae naturally is with plants. By covering 75% of the pond surface with floating plants like water lillies, you'll create a physical barrier to block the sunlight the algae needs and add beauty to your pond. Water hyacinths love sunny spots, and water lettuce likes shady areas; both multiply rapidly. You can keep them in check by stretching a piece of fishing like across to define their boundaries. If you have any questions on pond maintenance, you can give me a call at 802-442-2851, or 800-521-2705.
Monday, May 26, 2014
Time to Ride!
Here in New England, many riders get the bulk of their riding done from May-November. Unless you have access to an indoor arena (or are incredilby hardy), snow, ice and single-digit (or lower) temperatures can make riding a less-than-fun experience, so during the nice weather, we take advantage of every moment we can spend in the saddle. Of course, summer presents its own set of challenges, and at Whitman's, we have what you need to meet them.
For the Rider
Riding in hot weather can be uncomfortable - heat and humidity can sap your endurance and make you feel as though your usual 1/2 hr. of ring work or 4 mile trail ride were trials rather than treats. The right riding gear can be a big help. Cotton is great when the weather's not too extreme - we have On Course and Tuff Rider cotton breeches, which offer comfort and good looks for moderate temperatures. When the heat's really on, a technical fabric that wicks sweat and helps keep you cool is often a better choice - Kerrits Ice Fil and Venti tops, Performance and Klassic tights all fit that description. Tredstep Nero breeches are another good choice for hot weather - their ExCell fabric wicks moisture and helps keep you cool. We also have SSG Kool-Flo and Noble Outfitters Cool Mesh gloves to protect your hands without trapping the heat (the Noble Outfitters gloves are touchscreen friendly, too). Paddock boots and half-chaps are a cooler option than tall boots. We have the Tredstep Giotto, Ariat Heritage, Performer and Terrain, and Dublin Advance paddock boots. Finally, top things off with a Troxel, Tipperary or IRH helmet. They're well-ventilated and lightweight, so you can stay safe without baking your noggin.
For the Horse
Heat and humidity can take a huge toll on your horse. They really prefer cooler weather (they're most comfortable at between 20°F and 60°F, depending on condition and hair coat), so it's important to keep them as cool and comfortable as possible. Access to shade is vital; if they have access to a run-in shed or stall (or if they have limited access to turn-out), a large box fan can be used to keep the air moving and increase their comfort. Hosing your horse down with cool water is another good way to cool them down; be sure to scrape excess water away so the air can reach the skin and facilitate the cooling process.
And speaking of water, ample water intake is vital at any time of year. Access to a salt block is an excellent way to encourage your horse to drink more water; we have the Himalayan salt blocks, and they are really amazing. They're really long-slasting - they're rock hard so horses can't bite chunks off, and they won't crumble to powder in humid weather the way pressed salt and mineral blocks can. They also contain macrominerals like calcium, iron, magnesium and potassium, and microminerals like zinc, boron and selenium.
Electrolytes are a great thing to use as well, especially if your horse is working hard and sweating a lot. They encourage water intake, and replace the vital nutrients that sweating can deplete. We carry Finish Line's Apple-A-Day and Farnam Apple Elite electrolytes, which are apple flavored and sugar-free; if you horse prefers something on the sweeter side, Stress-Dex orange flavor contains dextrose to appeal to the sweet tooth. You can add these to your horse's water, or mix with grain.
Bugs are another summertime issue, and here in the Northeast, tick and tick-borne diseases like Lyme disease are a serious problem. We carry a full line of spot-ons, sprays/wipes and physical barriers (sheets and masks) from Farnam, Absorbine, Durvet, Weatherbeeta, Cashel and more!
So enjoy your good riding weather, and remember, if you have questions, you can reach us in the tack shop at 802/442-2851, email horsingabout@yahoo.com, or leave a comment here on the blog!
For the Rider
Riding in hot weather can be uncomfortable - heat and humidity can sap your endurance and make you feel as though your usual 1/2 hr. of ring work or 4 mile trail ride were trials rather than treats. The right riding gear can be a big help. Cotton is great when the weather's not too extreme - we have On Course and Tuff Rider cotton breeches, which offer comfort and good looks for moderate temperatures. When the heat's really on, a technical fabric that wicks sweat and helps keep you cool is often a better choice - Kerrits Ice Fil and Venti tops, Performance and Klassic tights all fit that description. Tredstep Nero breeches are another good choice for hot weather - their ExCell fabric wicks moisture and helps keep you cool. We also have SSG Kool-Flo and Noble Outfitters Cool Mesh gloves to protect your hands without trapping the heat (the Noble Outfitters gloves are touchscreen friendly, too). Paddock boots and half-chaps are a cooler option than tall boots. We have the Tredstep Giotto, Ariat Heritage, Performer and Terrain, and Dublin Advance paddock boots. Finally, top things off with a Troxel, Tipperary or IRH helmet. They're well-ventilated and lightweight, so you can stay safe without baking your noggin.
For the Horse
Heat and humidity can take a huge toll on your horse. They really prefer cooler weather (they're most comfortable at between 20°F and 60°F, depending on condition and hair coat), so it's important to keep them as cool and comfortable as possible. Access to shade is vital; if they have access to a run-in shed or stall (or if they have limited access to turn-out), a large box fan can be used to keep the air moving and increase their comfort. Hosing your horse down with cool water is another good way to cool them down; be sure to scrape excess water away so the air can reach the skin and facilitate the cooling process.
And speaking of water, ample water intake is vital at any time of year. Access to a salt block is an excellent way to encourage your horse to drink more water; we have the Himalayan salt blocks, and they are really amazing. They're really long-slasting - they're rock hard so horses can't bite chunks off, and they won't crumble to powder in humid weather the way pressed salt and mineral blocks can. They also contain macrominerals like calcium, iron, magnesium and potassium, and microminerals like zinc, boron and selenium.
Electrolytes are a great thing to use as well, especially if your horse is working hard and sweating a lot. They encourage water intake, and replace the vital nutrients that sweating can deplete. We carry Finish Line's Apple-A-Day and Farnam Apple Elite electrolytes, which are apple flavored and sugar-free; if you horse prefers something on the sweeter side, Stress-Dex orange flavor contains dextrose to appeal to the sweet tooth. You can add these to your horse's water, or mix with grain.
Bugs are another summertime issue, and here in the Northeast, tick and tick-borne diseases like Lyme disease are a serious problem. We carry a full line of spot-ons, sprays/wipes and physical barriers (sheets and masks) from Farnam, Absorbine, Durvet, Weatherbeeta, Cashel and more!
So enjoy your good riding weather, and remember, if you have questions, you can reach us in the tack shop at 802/442-2851, email horsingabout@yahoo.com, or leave a comment here on the blog!
Wednesday, April 23, 2014
NEW For Spring!
Spring is finally making itself felt here at Whitman's. Vermont (and most of the US, it seems) had a long, cold, snowy winter, so seeing the first crocus, the first daffodil or the first flush of green buds on the trees is especially welcome.
We also have some new "spring things" in stock. Berry bushes and canes:
We also have some new "spring things" in stock. Berry bushes and canes:
Strawberry plants:
Onion sets:
Cold-tolerant plants like Pansies
and lettuce:
We have seeds in bulk
or in packets.
And our chick orders are starting to arrive! (The reddish cast in the photo is from the heat lamps the chicks are under - they need to be kept warm.)
We also have new stuff upstairs in the tack shop! Riley polos from Noble Outfitters:
These are a light-weight technical fabric that wicks moisture and helps keep you cool when the temperatures start soaring.
We also have socks and gloves from Noble Outfitters (more socks on the way). The socks have a mesh insert over the instep to help keep you cool, and padding in the ankle to minimize the pinch that can happen with some riding boots. The gloves are cool and comfortable, and - bonus - touch screen friendly! You can use your phone, tablet or other touch-screen device without having to remove your gloves!
We have a new helmet pattern from Troxel: the Rebel "Pink Rose". If you're a matchy-matchy fan, you can see it goes really well with the Noble Outfitters gloves, socks and Viper knife:
We also have some other new colors in our Troxel line:
And a line of kids' show coats and shirts from JPC Equestrian. The Starter jackets are light-weight and washable, and the Kirby shirts are short-sleeved, moisture wicking and have a woven wrap collar that makes a ratcatcher unnecessary:
We also have new kids' and women's breeches and riding tights from JPC Equestrian, On Course and Tough Rider. New breeches and paddock boots from Tredstep are on their way!
So take advantage of the longer days and nicer weather to stop by and see what's new here at Whitman's.
Wednesday, April 16, 2014
Spring ... Really? by Todd Saunders
Believe it or not, spring is coming! Come into Whitman's Feed Store to order your baby chicks and other poultry. We have all the supplies that you need to raise them up big and strong. If you wish to go organic, we have the Green Mountain Feeds. If that's not your thing, we have the full line of Poulin feeds, and a few of our own.
For all those scratches and small cuts we have types of Vetericyn, Betadine, as well as Blu-Kote and Red-Kote. And when the flies start to bug us all again, stop in and get insect sprays by Pro-Zap and Durvet to help keep them away from your animals.
Don't forget about getting those fences up and ready for summer pasture. We have a wide selection of insulators and posts to build with. When it comes to energizing those fences, we can take care of that as well with our line of Gallagher fencers. We have plug-in, battery and even solar units.
For all those scratches and small cuts we have types of Vetericyn, Betadine, as well as Blu-Kote and Red-Kote. And when the flies start to bug us all again, stop in and get insect sprays by Pro-Zap and Durvet to help keep them away from your animals.
Don't forget about getting those fences up and ready for summer pasture. We have a wide selection of insulators and posts to build with. When it comes to energizing those fences, we can take care of that as well with our line of Gallagher fencers. We have plug-in, battery and even solar units.
Whitman's Feed and Tack
Hello, and welcome! Spring is a time of new beginnings, and we're celebrating the season by starting this blog. We're a full service feed and tack shop, with a knowledgeable staff who can help you with pretty much all your needs, whether they be farm and garden, livestock, equine or companion animal (exotics and fish, too). Have a question about adding koi to your pond? Want to know which milk replacer is best for calves? We have you covered. Need to find out which feed or supplement would be optimal for your senior horse? Looking for a grain-free dog treat? Need an organic fertilizer for your vegetable garden? No problem. Looking for schooling breeches and a helmet? Want to know which breed of chicken is best for egg production? Need a heat lamp for your iguana? We can help.
As you can see, this blog will be wonderfully diverse, with our staff writing about all of the subjects above, and many more. If you have an idea for a post, or a question you'd like answered, please leave a comment here - we'd be happy to help!
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