Most humans love celebrating the Fourth of July. But our four-legged family? Sometimes, not so much. Please read on for some tips on keeping your critters safe and happy. Have a great Fourth!
From the VT Veterinary Medical Association
M. Kathleen Shaw, DVM
Everyone loves the fun and festivities of the July Fourth celebrations. However, our pets do not have the appreciation of these patriotic displays. Dogs, cats, horses and even livestock can react to fireworks in ways that could potentially cause injury and even death.
During upcoming celebrations, never leave pets alone outdoors, even if tethered or in a fenced in yard. It's not uncommon for dogs to escape or injure themselves in a frenzied attempt to escape. In fact, many animals shelters report increases of stray intakes after the Fourth of July holiday due to the number of pets running away to avoid noise and excitement.
If you are planning on attending a fireworks celebration, keep pets at home. A good idea is to keep small pets indoors, in an interior room without windows. Turn on the TV or radio to provide distraction. Keep horses in their stalls if possible and consider talking with your veterinarian prescribing mild sedatives during this time.
If you MUST be outside with your pet during a fireworks display, make sure your pet is on a leash or in a carrier. Be sure that your pet has current ID tags and/or a microchip so that you and your pet can be easily reunited in case he/she runs off. Some pets may become fearfully aggressive due to the loud noises, so protect pets from kids who may not realize the consequences of waving sparklers or setting off home fireworks.
If your pet is fearful during fireworks, never punish this behavior but don't reinforce it, either, by trying to soothe the pet by saying things like "It's ok". Paying attention to your pet may positively reinforce the fearful behavior. If you have concerns about your animals during July Fourth celebrations, talk with your veterinarian about the best ways to keep your pets safe.
Friday, June 27, 2014
Monday, June 23, 2014
Trail Riding - Keeping it Safe
Summer trail rides are one thing we long for in the depths of the New England winters. Trail riding is a ton of fun, and knowing the basics of trail safety can keep a ride on the safe and fun side.
First, let someone know where you're going and how long you expect to be gone. This is especially vital if you're going out on your own. Hang a dry-erase board in your barn and leave the info there - for example "Amy out on the Water Wheel trail at 3 pm, back by 4:30". That way, your route is readily available to your family and/or fellow boarders, or (let's hope it never comes to this) rescue personnel and EMTs. And please don't deviate from your planned route - for obvious reasons!
Second, ALWAYS wear your helmet. Even if it's hot as blue blazes, even if you're just going to ride across the field to the neighbor's or down the drive to pick up the mail, make sure your helmet is on.
It's also handy to have "necessary bags" for you and your horse. Make sure that your bag is attached to you; there's nothing worse than parting company with your horse seeing your gear and your horse disappearing down the trial.
If you're just going out for a short hack on a familiar trail, your cell phone may be all you need. However, if you're going long-distance or into unfamiliar territory, you'll need to plan more extensively. Dress in layers and prepare for weather changes, and your necessary bag should contain the following:
There's some equipment that comes in handy for your horse, too. A halter-bridle combination can be useful if you want to stop for lunch and allow your horse to graze - yes, you can carry a halter and lead as well, but the combination bridle leaves you with less to carry. Be sure that your name and phone number are written on or attached to your bridle, halter and saddle in case you two get separated. One woman I know braids a tag with her name, phone number and email into her horse's mane when she goes on long rides; it's more likely to stay with the horse than the tack. If you're going to have to venture into areas with traffic, reflective gear is a good idea - helmet covers, leg and tail bands, and reflective sleeves that fit on your tack make you visible to motorists. And obviously, your horse should be shod appropriately and in good enough physical condition to complete the ride without undue stress.
As for your horse's necessary bag, it can be a cantle of pommel bag, or it can clip to a saddle dee. It should contain the following:
First, let someone know where you're going and how long you expect to be gone. This is especially vital if you're going out on your own. Hang a dry-erase board in your barn and leave the info there - for example "Amy out on the Water Wheel trail at 3 pm, back by 4:30". That way, your route is readily available to your family and/or fellow boarders, or (let's hope it never comes to this) rescue personnel and EMTs. And please don't deviate from your planned route - for obvious reasons!
Second, ALWAYS wear your helmet. Even if it's hot as blue blazes, even if you're just going to ride across the field to the neighbor's or down the drive to pick up the mail, make sure your helmet is on.
It's also handy to have "necessary bags" for you and your horse. Make sure that your bag is attached to you; there's nothing worse than parting company with your horse seeing your gear and your horse disappearing down the trial.
If you're just going out for a short hack on a familiar trail, your cell phone may be all you need. However, if you're going long-distance or into unfamiliar territory, you'll need to plan more extensively. Dress in layers and prepare for weather changes, and your necessary bag should contain the following:
- A quart of water. If you're going into the back country, a water filtration system would be a good item to carry.
- Your cell phone.
- GPS or map, if your cell doesn't have those features (or if you'll be riding beyond cell service).
- A watch.
- Knife or (even better) a multi-tool.
- A small first-aid kit with electrolytes, bandanges, pain killers and antiseptic ointment.
- Bug spray.
- Sun screen.
- Any medications or allergy remedies you may need, and a list of those meds and medical conditions.
- A whistle.
- Environmentally-friendly toilet paper.
- A shatterproof mirror.
- A length of sturdy string or twine.
- Plastic poncho.
- Emergency reflective blanket.
- Cigarette lighter or waterproof matches.
- Food concentrates / energy bars.
There's some equipment that comes in handy for your horse, too. A halter-bridle combination can be useful if you want to stop for lunch and allow your horse to graze - yes, you can carry a halter and lead as well, but the combination bridle leaves you with less to carry. Be sure that your name and phone number are written on or attached to your bridle, halter and saddle in case you two get separated. One woman I know braids a tag with her name, phone number and email into her horse's mane when she goes on long rides; it's more likely to stay with the horse than the tack. If you're going to have to venture into areas with traffic, reflective gear is a good idea - helmet covers, leg and tail bands, and reflective sleeves that fit on your tack make you visible to motorists. And obviously, your horse should be shod appropriately and in good enough physical condition to complete the ride without undue stress.
As for your horse's necessary bag, it can be a cantle of pommel bag, or it can clip to a saddle dee. It should contain the following:
- Compact first aid kit with bandages and antiseptic ointment (check with your veterinarian if you want a more comprehensive kit, or if your horse has special physical requirements).
- Hoof pick.
- Easy Boot or other shoe replacement.
- If you're going to be bushwhacking or clearing trails, a folding camp saw is a good item to have.
- Duct tape.
- Collapsible water bucket.
- Strong string or twine.
- Electrolytes.
- Snacks / treats.
Monday, June 16, 2014
"Pond"-ering
Now that summer is nigh, people are thinking about their ponds. Here at Whitman's, we have a well-stocked pond department, and a knowledgeable staff to help you out. Here are some words of wisdom from Sandy Edwards on a common pond problem: algae.
If you haven't treated your pond for algae, try adding barley straw extract or pellets now. Blue dye does a fantastic job with algae also. Or ... why not be proactive and use barley straw or blue dye in early spring, as soon as you have a hole in the ice? You can also add barley straw in the fall and let it "work" all winter.
How do these products work? When barley straw starts to degrade, it gives off a toxin that kills the algae but is safe for your fish and plants - people and animals, too. The blue dye blocks the sunlight that the algae requires for survival. This is also non-toxic to humans, pond plants and animals.
Pond fish are another way to control algae. Koi love to eat it; Pond Comets and other goldfish consume algae, and will cheerfully eat mosquito larvae as well. They also add beauty and character to a pond. Just remember that they can get pretty big, and if you have a pond that freezes solid in winter, they'll need alternative living quarters. Ours spend the winter upstairs in the tack shop, in a 150 gallon livestock water tank.
The very best way to control algae naturally is with plants. By covering 75% of the pond surface with floating plants like water lillies, you'll create a physical barrier to block the sunlight the algae needs and add beauty to your pond. Water hyacinths love sunny spots, and water lettuce likes shady areas; both multiply rapidly. You can keep them in check by stretching a piece of fishing like across to define their boundaries. If you have any questions on pond maintenance, you can give me a call at 802-442-2851, or 800-521-2705.
If you haven't treated your pond for algae, try adding barley straw extract or pellets now. Blue dye does a fantastic job with algae also. Or ... why not be proactive and use barley straw or blue dye in early spring, as soon as you have a hole in the ice? You can also add barley straw in the fall and let it "work" all winter.
How do these products work? When barley straw starts to degrade, it gives off a toxin that kills the algae but is safe for your fish and plants - people and animals, too. The blue dye blocks the sunlight that the algae requires for survival. This is also non-toxic to humans, pond plants and animals.
Pond fish are another way to control algae. Koi love to eat it; Pond Comets and other goldfish consume algae, and will cheerfully eat mosquito larvae as well. They also add beauty and character to a pond. Just remember that they can get pretty big, and if you have a pond that freezes solid in winter, they'll need alternative living quarters. Ours spend the winter upstairs in the tack shop, in a 150 gallon livestock water tank.
The very best way to control algae naturally is with plants. By covering 75% of the pond surface with floating plants like water lillies, you'll create a physical barrier to block the sunlight the algae needs and add beauty to your pond. Water hyacinths love sunny spots, and water lettuce likes shady areas; both multiply rapidly. You can keep them in check by stretching a piece of fishing like across to define their boundaries. If you have any questions on pond maintenance, you can give me a call at 802-442-2851, or 800-521-2705.
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