Caring for Your Tack

"Chances are, if it's good, it's not gonna be cheap.  And chances are, if it's cheap, it's not gonna be good." - Anonymous

 That statement is true about many things - and especially about leather tack.  Good quality tack isn't inexpensive - it's not just a purchase, it's an investment.  But here's the good news:  given the proper care, tack can last for decades - literally. It's not unusual to see quality tack from the early 2000s (and even the 1990s) still in daily use and in safe-and-sound condition. And more good news:  this kind of longevity doesn't require you to spend hours disassembling and reassembling and slaving away with saddle soap!

The first thing to remember is that leather is skin, and needs to be treated that way.   A good rule to follow is that if you don't want to put it on your hands, you don't want to put it on your tack!  Leather needs to be kept clean and hydrated, and in the neutral pH range (around 6-8 on the scale).  Use products specifically designed for tack, because tanning methods vary depending on the type of leather and the product the leather will eventually become.  Products meant for boots, leather clothing or car interiors aren't meant for tack!

The best way to care for your tack and ensure its longevity is to wipe it down with a damp cloth or sponge after every use.  This takes less than 5 minutes for both saddle and bridle, and keeps dirt from building up.  It also removes sweat, which can stiffen and stain your leather, and it gives you a chance to notice any safety issues that may crop up, so you can have the worn bit repaired or replaced before it becomes a safety hazard. If you aren't that vigilant and find that you have some dirt jockeys after a few rides, use a good, pH balanced cleaner like Effol or Belvoir - they're very effective at removing dirt, and are gentle to your leather.  Plain old glycerin saddle soap or Kirk's Castile soap are fine, too - just make sure that you wipe all the the residue off your saddle, as any remaining soap film will attract dust and dirt.  (The green gunk you often see around saddle nails and bridle buckles is glycerin soap residue.) Every couple of weeks (the actual schedule will depend on the weather, and how much and in what conditions your tack is used), give your tack a light coat or two of a well-balanced commercial conditioner.  The key here is light. You want the conditioner to be absorbed immediately, so be careful not to over-apply; two or three light coats will be far better than one heavy coat.  Remember to condition both the top and underside of the flaps and jockeys, as the underside (flesh side) will absorb conditioner more efficiently than the upper (hair) side.

Now, a word about oil.  Yes, it's a necessary component in leather care, and all commercial conditioners contain oil, along with fats and waxes. And yes, too little will result in dry, brittle leather.  However, too much oil can be the kiss of death for leather as well.  Oil is absorbed quite readily by leather, and if too much is applied, it will penetrate deep into the collagen matrix and weaken the fibers, allowing them to stretch. If you've ever seen a piece of leather with about as much resilience as a wet dish towel, you've likely seen over-oiled leather.  Leather in that state should be considered unsafe for use.

Where you store your tack is another issue that will effect its longevity.  If possible, store it in a climate-controlled, well-ventilated area away from excess humidity.  If you don't have access to that sort of area, you can use conditioner that contains phenol - like Leather Therapy or Belvoir - to help inhibit the mold and mildew that will invariably invade leather in hot, humid conditions. Your saddle should be stored on a rack, and should always be covered to protect it from dust and the claws of your barn cat.  Don't store your sweaty, wet saddle pad or blanket on the same rack - that's a perfect environment for fungal growth - and don't drape your girth or cinch over your saddle seat unless it's dry and clean.  You can store your bridle on a rack as well; you can put it in a bridle bag, or drape an old pillow case or towel to protect it and keep the dust off. Just be sure there's adequate ventilation so any moisture can evaporate - don't store leather in plastic or other non-permeable materials.

A little bit of care goes a long way toward protecting your tack, and will help make sure you get years of safe use from it.

Saltwater Aquariums for Beginners

Saltwater aquariums - "reef tanks" - are a great hobby.  They add beauty and interest to your home, and saltwater fish are some of the most colorful and fascinating in the world.  Our aquarium expert, Rick Stacco, has this advice to offer to anyone interested in setting up a saltwater aquarium.

The first things you'll need are a tank, a filter, a pump, a heater, a thermometer, a hydrometer and a good UV light.  You'll also need reef crystals (sea salt), marine sand or crushed coral for the bottom of the tank, and test strips to monitor ammonia and pH levels.  A 20-gallon aquarium is a good size to start with.  Consult with a sales associate who's knowledgeable about keeping a reef aquarium - they'll be able to help you find the right equipment.  The pump cycles the water and adds air bubbles, while the filter keeps the water clean by filtering out organic matter.  The thermometer lets you know your water temperature so you can adjust your heater accordingly; the best temperature for most reef tanks is 79°-82° F.  The UV light enhances color and will be necessary if you want to grow coral.

You'll make your own salt water by adding reef crystals to fresh water.  Use the hydrometer to measure the salinity of the water, which should be 1.022.  You'll have to measure this frequently to and add water to adjust the salinity.  It's usually best to add fresh water, check the salinity and add more reef crystals as needed; adding water that already has salt mixed in can result in water that's too saline, and that's not good.  You'll also need to monitor ammonia levels to be sure they stay low, and pH (which should be between 8.0 and 8.4) and adjust as necessary.

It will take about 7-9 weeks for your tank to "cycle" - that is, to develop the natural bacteria that keep your tank healthy, so for that initial period, it's best to have some hardy fish who can deal with some ups and downs.  Damsel fish are hardy and inexpensive, they get along well when they're young and they're beautiful as well.  The rule of thumb for populating your tank is 1" of fish per gallon of water, so you could have 10 2" fish in a 20 gallon aquarium, or 20 1" fish.  Just remember that your fish will grow, so take that into account; it's better to err on the side of too few fish to allow them sufficient room so they aren't crowded and territorial issues don't come up.  After your tank has cycled and you have more experience in maintaining a healthy environment, you can start adding new fish, soft coral and other sea life to your tank.

Garden Know-How by Sandy Edwards

Don't like to weed your garden?  Next time you plant, think about sowing your leafy crops, radishes, beet green, carrots etc. in small blocks instead of rows.  They'll grow in thickly and, like the water plants in your pond, choke out the weeds by depriving them of nutrients and sunlight.  For the root crops, start thinning as necessary, but keep them thicker than they'd be in a standard row.  You can do the same with your corn - small blocks with short, narrow rows.  This discourages weeds and promotes better pollination, giving you a better crop with less work.

Speaking of corn, try the relatively new variety - Applause - and enhanced Bodacious variety.  It's extra-sweet and stays longer on the plant before the sugars start turning to starch.  And for the BEST corn eating, here's a tip from my Iowa grandmother:  have your pot of lightly salted and sugared water boiling, then pick and shuck your corn.  NO starch - ALL SUGAR!