THE BASIC COMPONENTS (WHAT YOU'LL NEED)
We carry a wide variety of Gallagher fencers, fencing, components and accessories here at Whitman's, and we can guide you through installing and maintaining your electric fence. Here's a list of the basic things you'll need to get started:
- The fencer (aka charger or energizer). This can be a plug-in model, or it can be solar or battery powered. This is the energy source that gets the electricity to the fencing. Modern fencers are low-impedance, which means they deliver a regular pulse of energy rather than a constant flow, as the old "weed chopper" fencers did. Fencers are rated in miles they can energize, volts, amps and/or joules. In general, the higher the number, the more powerful the fencer. The only exception to this is the joule rating - that simply indicates the power and consistency with which the voltage is pumped through the fencing.
- Fencing. This can be mesh, braid, wire or tape; this is the part that carries the voltage and creates the physical boundary.
- Insulators. These are the interface between the fence post and the wire; they keep the fencing from coming into contact with the post, "grounding out" and losing its zap. You can get plastic or ceramic insulators designed for the type of posts you're using (see below). Plastic insulators are inexpensive and easy to install (if you miss the nail and hammer the plastic insulator while installing it, it won't ruin the insulator), but like any plastic, they'll eventually degrade in sunlight. Ceramic insulators are more expensive and fussier to install - they may break if you miss the nail and hit the insulator instead - but they'll probably still be working long after the post they're attached to has rotted or rusted out.
- Grounding system. You'll need at least 2 or 3 ground poles (usually about 6' long and made of galvanized metal), pounded into the ground roughly 10 feet apart, connected to the grounding terminal of the fencer. Keep in mind that the more powerful the fencer, the more grounding poles it will need;
- Insulated electric fence wire. This will connect your ground poles to your fencer, and your fencer to your fencing.
- Fence posts. You can use fiberglass, metal or wood posts, depending on your needs (and budget). For a temporary fence, fiberglass "step in" posts are a good option, since they're inexpensive and easy to install and remove. For permanent fences, metal or wood posts are a stronger and more durable option; wood is less expensive than metal, but metal posts will probably last longer than wood (depending on the climate in which they're used).
HOW LARGE?
Now that you have a list of equipment, you need to figure out how much area you'll be fencing, and how many strands of wire/tape/braid you plan to install. As an example, let's say that you need to fence a rectangular 20'x40' area.
Let's see ... 20 + 20 + 40 + 40 = 120. So you need a fencer that can electrify 120 linear feet ... right? That's right ... if you're only running one strand of fence. If you need 2 strands, you'll have 240' of fencing to electrify; for three strands, it will be 360' ... and so on. So you need to choose a fencer that's strong enough to electrify the total length of all the strands of fence you'll be running - not just the linear feet of the perimeter.
HOW MUCH POWER (LOOKING TO THE FUTURE)
It's usually recommended to get the most powerful fencer you can afford. Look for a fencer that's rated a minimum of 1 joule; if you can afford one with a higher rating, get it. Remember that the joule rating tells you how consistently and powerfully the "jolt" is being delivered, not how many volts the charger is generating. You may have a fencer that's strong enough to to energize 50 miles of fencing and contain an elephant (yes, there are chargers that claim they're suitable for that), but unless that charge is running consistently and strongly through your fencing, it won't do much to contain your animals.
A powerful fencer will not only do a great job at energizing your current fence, it will also give you a lot more flexibility. At some point in the future, you may decide your 20'x40' area is no longer adequate for your needs, or you may decide to increase one strand of fencing to 5 strands. If you have a 0.2 joule fencer, your ability to expand may be more limited than you'd like, and a new fencer may be the only option. So start with the most fencer you can afford; it won't hurt to have a big fencer energizing a small area, and down the road, you may be thankful for that extra power.
TYPES OF FENCING
The type of electric fencing you'll need will depend on what you're trying to accomplish. If you just want a something electric to keep your horses from leaning on your wooden fence, running a single strand of galvanized wire on the inside of the fence along the top rail will work beautifully. However, if electric fence is going to be your only method of containment, galvanized wire isn't the best answer, as it's very hard for your livestock to see and you run the risk of them (or some wild creature) breaking the fence or getting tangled in it. High-visibility poly braid, rope or tape would be better solutions; they do the same job as the galvanized wire, with the addition of being easier for your animals to see. You can get the standard type or "turbo" fencing.; turbo fencing has higher conductivity than standard fencing, so the electricity is carried more effectively and provides more jolt.
TYPES OF CHARGERS
Chargers come in three different types: plug in 110 volt fencers, battery-powered fencers and solar fencers. Plug-ins are probably the most reliable, offer the most consistent performance, and - since you don't have to keep supplying them with batteries - the most affordable. Even the biggest, most powerful fencers won't make much of an increase in your electric bill. However, if you live in an area with frequent power outages, having a backup system would be advisable. You can install either a battery or solar fencer as back up, or plug your electric fencer into a generator.
Battery powered fencers are generally less expensive to purchase than plug-in or solar units and are fairly reliable, as long as you're vigilant about the shape the battery's in. As the battery disperses its energy, the jolt it supplies becomes weaker and weaker, so you can't let it "run dry". In reality you need to have 2 batteries for that type of fencer: one in the fencer, and one - fully charged - to replace the first when it's getting low and while it's being recharged. And of course, batteries will eventually need to be replaced when they no longer hold a charge, so that adds to the overall cost.
Solar fencers are the most expensive to purchase, and - at least in our neck of the woods - the least reliable. While they require only 8 hrs. of light a day (and direct sunlight isn't required), we find that their performance is somewhat inconsistent, especially in overcast weather. They tend to work best in areas with strong, continuous sunlight.
MAINTAINING YOUR FENCING
Electric fencing is pretty low-maintenance - it doesn't rot or rust, and animals won't chew it or lean on it. Just make sure to keep it clear of weeds, grass or fallen branches; be sure the insulators are whole and keeping the wire/tape off the posts (metal posts will short out a fence if the wire touches it) and that the tape, rope or braid isn't frayed.
Probably your biggest maintenance chore will be checking the voltage on a regular basis. We carry reliable, easy-to-use digital voltmeters that will tell you immediately if your fencer is performing the way it should. Check your voltage as far from the fencer as possible when you first install your fencing so you have a good idea of your baseline number; it should be at least 4000 volts. A lower number may indicate that your fencer is faulty, or that it isn't powerful enough to charge your entire fence line. Keep a consistent eye on your voltage; it's common for your reading to be lower in the morning (moisture on the fence can cause temporary current leakage), but if you notice a significant drop - 1500 to 2000 volts - it means you need to look for problems. It could be grass or brush on the fencing, it could be a frayed wire, or it could be a malfunctioning charger. It's always best to be proactive in these cases; most animals can sense when the current in the fence is weak, and many will take advantage of it immediately!
