Horse flies, stable flies, face flies, deer flies, greenhead flies, mosquitoes, black flies and no-see-ums (the local name for midges) - we have them all. We also have a serious problem with ticks and the diseases they carry (Lyme, Anaplasmosis and Babesiosis, plus one that's so new it's still unnamed). These blood-sucking pests can turn trail rides, ring work and even turn-out into torture sessions. Fortunately, there are steps you can take to keep your horse bug-free and comfortable.
TOPICALS
These include sprays, spot-ons, roll-ons and wipes, and are available in both chemical (Farnum's Endure, Tri-Tech, Wipe and Repel-X, Cut Heal's Zonk It! or Absorbine's Ultra-Shield lines) and herbal formulas (like Espree and Nature's Choice). Some are water and sweat-resistant, while others must be reapplied if your horse is bathed, gets sweaty or spends time out in the rain.
WIPES, SPRAYS AND ROLL-ONS
Some sprays are meant to be used every day, while others offer longer-term (up to 14 days) protection. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's directions and recommendations carefully to ensure the product works effectively. For example, some people spray or wipe the repellent onto the surface of the horse's coat; this means the preparation evaporates quite quickly and offers only short-term protection. Sprays and wipes should be applied while brushing against the lay of the hair, so the repellent reaches the skin. This means they don't dissipate as quickly, offering longer-term protection.
SPOT-ONS
These offer about 2 weeks of protection per application. Spot-ons (like Equi-Spot and Freedom 45) are liquids, similar to the products used for dogs and cats, and are applied in small amounts to your horse's body (usually the poll, topline and legs). Some horses may object to the "tickle" that applying these products seem to cause, but most get used to it after a couple of applications. Spot-ons are effective and convenient, and can be used in conjunction with herbal sprays or physical barriers (which we'll discuss next).
PHYSICAL BARRIERS
These are a bit like wearable screen houses for your horse. They're made of a variety of materials, but most are a mesh fabric that allow air to reach your horse so s/he stays cool. but keep bugs from making physical contact. These include masks, sheets, neck covers, belly guards, quarter sheets and leg wraps; some, like Weatherbeeta's Supa-Fly, are impregnated with insecticides and most offer some level of UV protection. Some physical barriers are meant to be used when your horse is stalled or pastured (Weatherbeeta's Bug Beeta, Dura-Mesh and Airflow fly sheets and their Dura-Mesh leg wraps), while others (like Cashel's QuietRide masks) are meant to be used when your horse is being ridden. This fly control method is a great choice for all horses, and especially for those who are too sensitive to tolerate topicals and spot-ons. (NOTE: if your horse is prone to developing hoof abscesses in the summer, try a set of mesh leg wraps. Stomping to dislodge flies can bruise the sole, which can cause abscesses to develop. We have a couple customers who say that their horses haven't developed hoof abscesses since they started wearing these leg wraps.)
CLIP-ONS, STRAPS AND BANDS
Think of these as the equine equivalent of a flea collar. Some are attached to your horse's halter, bridle or other tack, some are "Velcro-ed" on your horse's neck or around the cannon or fetlock, and some are braided or clipped into your horse's mane, tail and/or forelock. Some are impregnated with a chemical like Pyrethrin or Permethrin, while some - like Fly Armor - use inserts that contain herbal essential oils like citronella and cedar.
FEED SUPPLEMENTS
Garlic is probably the most popular feed-through, and is supposed to make your horse smell very unappetizing to insects. We carry Natural Horse Vet's Bug Check, which contains beneficial probiotics and Brewer's Yeast in addition to garlic.
You can also get feed-through supplements that interrupt the fly's life cycle. This supplement remains in the manure, and when flies lay eggs on it, the active ingredient in the supplement prevents the larva from maturing.
FLY PREDATORS
Fight bugs with bugs! Fly Predators are tiny, non-stinging/biting flies that live in manure and kill pest flies in the pupa stage, but never become pests themselves. You sprinkle them around manure piles and then let them do their work. You will have to replenish the population periodically (pest flies reproduce far more quickly than the Fly Predators do) to maintain their maximum effectiveness, but when managed properly, they can cause a dramatic reduction in the number of pest flies in the treated area. You can learn more about (and purchase) Fly Predators at Spaulding Labs and Smartpak.
MANURE MANAGEMENT
Keeping your barn and pastures clean can go a long way toward reducing the pest fly population. Pick out your stalls, small turn-out areas and run-in sheds at least once a day, and drag your pastures to spread manure (which, in addition to keeping the bug population down, will help nourish the grass). Keep your manure pile (or container, if your local ordinances require one) as far distant from your barn as is practical. If you have a manure pile, make compost! Turn the pile frequently - this will generate heat to "cook" the compost, which can kill eggs and larvae. (It will also kill weed seeds - a big plus if you use the composted manure on your gardens.)
AREA TREATMENTS AND TRAPS
Treating the barn can be another big help in reducing fly populations. Some barns are equipped with automatic spray systems that release a metered dose of insecticide at set intervals, while some people use pressurized or trigger sprayers to treat the stable/run-in shed. There are also products like Golden Malrin,which will kill within 20 seconds of being ingested. It can be scattered around the premise or used in bait stations - just make sure it's out of reach of curious kids and barn cats!
Traps can also be effective in controlling the adult fly population. There are many different types - jug traps, fly sticks, bag traps and fly paper - but they all work on the same principle: They attract the flies, the flies get trapped, the flies die. Traps and poisons are probably the least visually appealing methods, as they mean dead flies in the bait stations/traps/scatter areas that require clean-up and disposal.
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER
People often ask us, "What method of fly control will work best for me?" That depends on your climate, the size and type of barn or shelter you have, the number of horses you have, and even the weather. For example, here in VT, if we have a very wet, rainy spring, we'll have an upsurge in mosquitoes and black flies. If you have a lot of trees around your barn or pasture, you might have more trouble with deer flies, and if you have tall grass and brush around, ticks will probably be an issue. It will require some experimentation to see what method works best for your individual situation. Many people find that using a combination of methods works best: a fly mask and sheet with Fly Predators, a spot-on with an herbal spray, or area treatments, sprays and fly masks.
If you have questions or need help finding the method(s) that will suit you best, come on up to the tack shop, and we'd be happy to help you out!
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